Trojan Boat Forum

just some thoughts. Think it’s easy to get deep into the weeds on the front end of a deal, which sometimes isn’t helpful. The owner’s hesitancy to run it balls to the wall might just mean he’s cautious — or (as is suggested) that he’s trying to cover up issues. Thing is, you have to read...

guessing Sea Queen or Marlin. Check out the runabouts section on this site, also google. Looks like a 60's motor hookup (believe control box is for an electric gearcase.)

appreciated. Any advice on accessing the shower drain pump? sounds like I need to look for a way under the shower pan/floor. Interesting info on switches -- have the push/pull switch in the head that is labelled "pump", presumably the shower drain, but also have at least one extra bilge pu...

just a thought: had a frustrating stalling issue with my '80 F26 (single 305), and it was an electrical issue. Mine has a reset button in the wiring compartment under the steering wheel, with the reset button in a separate enclosed fuse panel. I opened the cover to the panel and cleaned or replaced ...

ordered a non submersible pump from Harbor Freight to replace the system that was in the boat three or four years ago when I bought it. A hose and strainer were part of the system, and I'm going back to that -- want to get more water out of the hollow keel. Actually, it's the bilge water in the engi...

[author deleted -- double post]

I've been running Mobil 1 15w-50 in the mid-80s Mercedes diesels we still drive, with no issues. As I recall, when I started using it, that was the synthetic that Mercedes approved. Mobil 1 is now available in 10W-30 and 10W-40, and that might be preferable for gas engines, although I'm thinking the...

Thanks. I thought it was flax packing, but I'll check with the mechanic first -- and won't be too concerned about it if it's flax and dripping a little. I like a little dripping when underway too, and I wouldn't be comfortable if there wasn't any. But I get tired of the water in the bilge -- not eno...

I had the repacking done by the marina before launch last Spring -- mechanic came back the next day to check on it, and tighten it down a little more (good folks). I'm tempted to tighten it down a little more because I get some dripping at rest in the slip -- not much, but maybe a drip every ten or ...

Thanks Striperman -- sent you a PM, hopefully correctly. Prowlerfish -- will try the URL.

I did some tracking in person in the mid to late 90's, but wasn't successful. went on to other things, I guess.

tried that unsuccessfully a few times, although I would rather find that particular boat again. You know the drill with old boats and old boat owners. But if you have a lead for that or similar Trojan outboard cruiser, I would be interested.

My first thought was an electrical issue -- bad sending unit or bad connection. You referred to oil pressure at the sending unit, but didn't see any reference to the possibility that the unit was bad or the electrical connection was bad. Just a thought. A dicey unit or connection could give on again...

Thought I might try this one again: a long shot Postby oldboat1 » Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:47 pm When we moved down to Maryland in the '90s, I pulled a 21 foot Trojan outboard cruiser down there from Michigan, for use on the Magothy River and the Bay (Sea Breeze model, plywood over oak, titled as a '54 m...

haven't checked the boat today, but found some seepage around one of the hydraulic line connections. There could be a slow leak that I had not noticed. The boat is very rarely run, and the leak was probably an ongoing problem even before I took possession, so that's probably the story on the problem...

interesting. I assumed the left switch operated the left (port) tab, and the right switch for the right tab, as you suggest may be preferred. Seems the most intuitive to me, but maybe that is why the lines are switched. good tip. I should add that the lines appear to me to be reversed with the outle...