Trojan Boat Forum

I used a Boatsafe bilge heater for a number of years with good results. Upper Chesapeake with fairly cold winters. Boat was left in the slip (used bubblers). Chris Craft with full camper cover.

Yeah, love 'em/hate 'em. I think I'm finding that the throttle plate isn't perpendicular at WOT, so is presumable not opening sufficiently. I haven't pulled off the remote cable yet to check the carb linkages (which don't seem real straightforward between the primaries and secondaries.) It's possibl...

Thanks, Prowlerfish. Noted.

I want to check operation of the secondary throttle plate on my quadrajet carb. With the engine off, I plan to hold the air doors open to look down on the throttle plates — think the throttle should be in WOT position, and the transmission in gear. Does that sound like a way to check? It’s my unders...

The starter may need to be shimmed in order to contact the ring gear. Shims are available at auto parts stores. (Humming means the starter is running, but not engaging flywheel.)

Might as well top off the reservoirs for the trim tabs.

Just FYI. It could be a flywheel issue (missing gears), or starter placement -- could require shimming the Bendix gear in toward flywheel. I went through this with a 305 in a Chris Craft. (Although not quite the same -- gear would periodically spin on mine without engaging the flywheel.)

Appreciate the feedback. I had been running a 13X10 prop until this Spring. Top rpms were 3200-3300, and top speed was 12 mph. With the 13X10 I was hitting top speed at approx. 3000-3100 rpm. With the larger prop, I lost 300-400 rpm, but gained about 5 mph. I’m waiting for the yard mechanic to come ...

I have a 1980 F26 with a 305 MIE and a 14X11 prop. I’m getting 16-17 mph on my GPS at 2900 rpm., and that seems OK to me. But that’s all she wrote — won’t exceed 2900 rpm. Here’s a flag: It has an HEI distributor with a vacuum advance, ported from the manifold. It appears to be “marinized” by sealin...

Flying the flag....

Think testing with a known fresh fuel source is a good idea. btw, Those carb settings (@1 1/2 open) are initial settings — could end up being the best setting, but usually a starting point to tweak the mix a bit. Engine should start and run at the initial setting, subject to further adjustment if ne...

A common element to both your motors is the fuel, as I understand it. You are running both from one tank after a fuel contamination problem in the other tank. I think I might start there, as you are now having issues with both motors. It’s possible you have a fuel issue in the current tank(?) What a...

No expert, but the idle mixture screws down at the base of the carb might need adjustment. From soft seating, initial setting is 1 1/2 open (counter clockwise). Start the engine and warm it up, then bump the needles 1/8 turn clockwise (leaner) to find the smoothest idle. Surging means overly lean — ...

pic of the part (reinstalled -- still in place). Starboard side -- view is from the cockpit, facing forward.

Thanks for the responses. I had some good luck today -- turns out the boatyard had saved the part. I had left a phone message, and it was reinstalled when the boat was launched. If one comes off again, I may switch to teak as described. A glue and screw method would be more secure. Problem solved fo...