Trojan Boat Forum

Rossjo - was that a joke or do I read it right, that you actually consider it to be a silly nuisance to insist on people being properly trained and qualified to deal with hazardous materials? Do you really believe that as long as it will save you a few bucks, doing it on the cheap is better than saf...

If the area stays dry, probably don't need to worry about it. If your canvas leaks or you have a lot of condensation problems around the hatch area, or a zillion bugs you want a bit more of a seal to keep out, a bit of additional weather-proofing might help.

Wood (teak and holly looks great) would certainly dress things up, but you gotta make sure you can pull it up and out of the way in a hurry if you have to get to the bilge quickly. Carpet is more utilitarian and will help things breathe a bit more. Also, drop a wrench on the carpet, no big deal... d...

There are some sprays that kill on contact, plus leave a residue that the spiders don't like... I have used Starbrite Spider Away, and know some who have used Raid Spider Blaster. Stinks when you first use it, but after a day or two the smell is gone, and usually keeps the spiders under control for ...

Thanks ! The boat was about 25 years old when that picture was taken. If you stay on top of it, keeping a wood boat in great shape isn't that bad. But if something starts to go and you ignore it, it can get complicated fast. During my father's ownership (almost 25 years) we had to replace the cockpi...

Same concept as my father's '69... The rails will be a basic track a lot like this guy http://www.extrude-a-trim.com/pages/image.asp?id=../graphic/bm3084.gif but are installed 'upside down' compared to how portrayed in this diagram... The forward section of the hatch would be attached to the track v...

On an F32 the rub rail itself is fastened to the hull, then the stainless strip is fastened over top, so you probably have the same setup. I also had some moisture showing inside a few years back, but caulking the top of the rub rail-to-hull seam around the entire perimeter of the boat solved it.

I agree with Jimbo... I am not a big fan of introducing any more opportunities for new leaks than absolutely necessary... Don't pull the second strut (ie leave the other bearing alone) until / unless you have to do it.

The hull will need to be able to breathe, and will flex (simple swelling and shrinking with humidity, or out and out flexing as stresses change hitting waves etc).... so make sure you pick out a paint that is not too 'hard' (some 2 part polyurethanes may not 'flex' enough), and lets things breathe (...

One consideration - do you need to make sure the material will breathe ? If using it for a headliner I would think yes, but if you are using it on the bulkheads instead you might be okay without. I have regular vinyl on some of my bulkheads around the v-berth and dinette, but there is a pretty good ...

Deep Cycle batteries are usually good for a few full 'flattenings' and will usually come back to full life, but regular duty batteries are less forgiving. Depends what you have on board...

Two different boats I think, unless he also converted it from a Sedan to an Express.

You can't really be serious ?!?!?!?!? If you are..... it's been nice (sort of) knowing you... I'm done with this. If it works - more power to you..... But more realistically, I am hoping that when the boat blows up or sinks nobody gets hurt - especially innocent bystanders whose only fault would hav...

Doesn't exist anymore, but my father bought his 1969 28' Sea Skiff Express in 1977, and owned it until about 2000. He named her White Heather (he was originally from Scotland). The slip he kept her in from 1979 - 2000, I have kept my F32 in since 2001. It was a double planked mahogany hull, plywood ...

I know what you mean by the Chapman's reference... but I have feeling there will be some reading this who will be wondering why you are asking about ice cream...