Trojan Boat Forum

Scoop, 10M.

Todd, I used both Awlgrip and Imron. The shop prefers Imron because it is easier to blend should you need to repair it. Awlcraft 2000 is a softer paint. If you are spending the time, seriously consider applying the toughest paint out there. Either Imron or Awlgrip are rather easy to use and stick to...

I just finished a complete repaint on my 10M. My first question to you is why would you put yourself through that? I stopped counting at 500 hours of labor. The project started in February and finished last Thursday. I don't think anyone should take on a paint job without really understanding the ti...

The problem with multimeters is that they don't flow much current through the wires you are testing. Poor grounds may read ok if they have continuity, but they may not operate properly due to an inability to pass much current. That said, you may get your meter to move if you wiggle the wires. This w...

My first thought is an intermittent electrical problem. The symptoms you describe could be caused, for instance, by a loose wire on the ignition switch, an intermittent ground, a poorly bonded ground, or the breakdown of a wire. These things are a bear to troubleshoot. Begin with the engines on and ...

First, be certain that the rudder is in fact out of alignment. Your rudders should be aligned such that the prop wash crosses. This means that when you hold your port rudder perfectly straight, you should expect to see your starboard rudder positioned as if to turn the boat to port. Is this the case...

There is a tool made for pressing out old strut bearings removing only the propeller. I used one last year with mixed success. It looks like a flanged pipe, split down the middle like a clam shell. The inside diameter is your shaft diameter, and you drive it with either a hammer or a hydraulic press...

I stripped mine down and applied two coats of cetol light. Every year I scuff with a scotch brite and add another coat. It looks great and lasts all season with zero maintenance. I do the same for my swim platform and bow pulpit.

Brett

Thanks. I have a support for the sole in that spot. I'll look to see if there is a hole underneath. The hole I drilled is about 3" forward of where you describe.

Brett

Hi test is totally safe in engines designed for regular. Think about it this way: regular gasoline is more explosive than hi test. Hi test has additives that make it slightly less combustible. "Premium" gasoline is a fantastic marketing gimmick. Only engines designed for premium require it...

OK, hole drilled and lazarette drained. I poked a rod all the way to the engine room bulkhead. Perhaps there is a clogged limber hole in the engine room bilge--I'll have to poke around down there at some point. The generator bolcks access to the bulkhead, so I'm not looking forward to rooting around...

The only thing I found was a glassed area about 4" in diameter, centerline, halfway between the engine room bulkhead and the sole support in the lazarette. Perhaps someone glassed the drain over. The engine room bilge is lower than the lazarette, so perhaps that is supposed to drain under the l...

I find myself in a very similar situation: I bought a 1982 10 M three years ago and have gone after it with an open checkbook. My engines are original with about 700 hours on them. They run fine. I'm secretly wishing they'd blow up so I can justify replacement with 8.1's. I would consider a diesel c...

Thanks, RWS. I couldn't find a drain hole in the lazarette, so I think I'll install a drain plug near the aft bilge pump. The pump is working fine, btw. The batteries are out for the season. Right now it's too darn cold to do anything!

Brett

I thought a drain plug was a pretty simple device. Put a hole in the transom in the lowest part of the bilge so water drains out when you pull the plug. Except mine doesn't seem to work that way (1982 10M express). My aft bilge is full of water, backing through the limber holes to the engine room. T...