Trojan Boat Forum

Maybe the block was there to help the anchor seat itself in the pulpit?

tcollins2 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2019 10:44 am I'm guessing the 1" starboard is there to cover up the blemishes of the old setup.
I'm trying to understand why the Sea Wolf 520 was installed on the 4" block to begin with. Was is for decoration or for purpose?
It seems like if your setup works fine with just a 1 inch lift a zero inch lift after I get the pulpit redone would work as well.

I thought if the 4" block was for purpose, it was to increase the angle or the level of the chain before it went to the anchor roller.

I will try to get over to the boat and take some more detailed pictures.

Thanks for the pics.

Finally got it off the boat, two person job for sure. In the "inlay" section there looks to be this gray vinyl material that is glued down. The closest thing that I could find is a product called "Lonseal". It's gray with a bunch of round dots on it. It appears to be used for interior vinyl flooring, not sure it's appropriate for exterior use.
Might be Loncoin II from here:
https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/lonse ... inear-foot

Does anyone know if this was the original material put down from Trojan? I guess I can put what ever I want there but the current gray stuff is dry and cracking.
Tom C.

Some other pics. Dropped it off today to get recored. Noticed there is unprotected wood where 5 of the carriage bolts go. Lots of wood rot and dirt between the pulpit and decking. Deck is about 1-1/4 thick, pulpit is another 3-3/8 thick plus there is a small gap between the two, almost at 5 inches total. Some windlasses need an extension kit with something this thick.

Got the recored pulpit back from Raybo marine in Lindenhurst. Great looking job. It sits until April when I take the shrinkwrap off. Looking forward to boat show in nyc at Javits to pick a windlass. no sign of the foot switches or the old SeaWolf beast. If anyone needs a Seawolf let me know.

i've messed with a number of windlasses on my own boat and others

For a larger cruiser the GOOD brand seems to be bulletproof and unbeatable

suggest doing some research on line before you commit to anything

RWS

I really wanted to go with a vertical windlass but the more I research it just doesn't look possible. The 12M express pulpit is not flat unlike the convertibles. In order for a vertical windlass to work the unit must be level with the roller. From the pic of another 12M the windlass is mounted on a tilted area which makes the vertical windlass a problem. If I put in a filler piece to level the unit I run into a depth problem. Pulpit plus a small gap plus the decking is about 5 inches. Good automatic windlass can only go up to 7 inches with the extension. This block on the SeaWolf is about 4 inches. I would need about the same thickness to make the chain level as required. So I think I can only install a horizontal windlass. Heading to the boat show next week to talk to Good Automatic Windlass to see if there is a solution.

I worked with TOM RING at Good

He helped me make the impossible.....possible

we traded drawings and sketches and made it work AMAZINGLY WELL !

RWS

Almost done. I realized from the top picture that the piece of wood that was in there actually split when I took the pulpit apart. I thought it was two pieces of wood that joined together. It was actually 5200'd in there. I had to chisel out the 5200 and the wood. Cleaned up everything.
Good recommended I use their off- white spacer block to make up the angled adapter but the boat was stark white. I glued two pieces of 100% PVC called Azek. Basically trim boards for houses which is out in the sun all day and won't degrade. Made an Autocad file and cut the pieces out on a CNC router. Scribed the angle I needed and cut it on a band saw. It went from 2" down to 1/4". Drilling holes in my new pulpit was tense. Measured 4x and cut once. I put spaced blocks in the gap between the boat and the pulpit so when I tightened down on the bolts it wouldn't just squeeze the two together. Put West System on the exposed wood and dropped the unit in. Definitely needed the extension kit from Good to get the unit to reach the rope locker.
Ran a piece of 12/3 from the helm to the rope locker for the switching. PITA! Microwave out, curtain rods out, starboard closet taken apart.

Next I need to choose a location for the windlass switch. Anyone have a picture of where they put the switch?
Thanks,
Tom C.

Send a pic if you have one of switch location.

i mounted mine at the helm where it can be accessed from the helm itself, or when standing on the gunnel and reaching down.

I am very enamored with the GOOD windlass.

Especially when the self locking feature does not require anyone to go up to the bow to deal with the safety lock as required on other windlasses.

Not fun in the rain or in a rough sea

RWS

I put 2 foot switches by my windlass along with a switch at the helm . You can see the foot switches to the post side of the windlass . Not the same windlass ,but I put the switches there when I had a good . While I use the helm switches most of the time these are very handy .