Trojan Boat Forum

Fuses are primarily to protect the wiring, not the devices at the end of the wires. They should be at the beginning of the wire near the batteries, rather than next to the device if at all possible.

If you want to be really correct, ABYC wants a main fuse within 7" of the battery in most conditions.

Jim Healy has put a lot of thought into boat electrical systems and has many technical articles on his website - https://gilwellbear.wordpress.com/. Nigel Calder's book "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual: How to Maintain, Repair, and Improve Your Boat's Essential Systems" is a great reference without the technical jargon that can make this a hard to understand subject.

when we did the mechanical refit in 2005/6 we added the red handled switches in the engine room.

really wish hey had been placed somewhere better accessible from the cockpit

something to think about, should you have to shut down in an emergency situation, like a FIRE !

RWS

RWS wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 7:51 am really wish hey had been placed somewhere better accessible from the cockpit

A good solution to this is remotely activated battery switches.

I am installing these. 1 for each engine battery. And i am still debating if i should add a 3rd for the house battery since i have the house switches. Please advise...

Looks great. Never had a problem with anything from Blue Sea.

Ok, now I'm jealous.

Just a FYI, a few years ago on my 24’ Express Cruiser, I ran a portable generator when weekending. To make sure I was as safe as possible, I installed a Xantrex/Kiddie Marine CO Detector onboard. They work differently than a household model, utilizing a modified sensing curve before alarming.

Oddly enough, I never had a problem with the portable generator, but two years later while running the boat over winter, a strong wind was blowing the boat’s engine exhaust into the cabin area while we inside. The CO detector quickly alerted us to a problem and we were able to open the portals to ventilate the area.

The CO Detector is probably one of the most critical optional alarms that should be installed onboard a gasoline powered boat.

That said, I need to get off my butt and get the one I bought last year installed on my F32!

oil&water wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:58 am Just a FYI, a few years ago on my 24’ Express Cruiser, I ran a portable generator when weekending. To make sure I was as safe as possible, I installed a Xantrex/Kiddie Marine CO Detector onboard. They work differently than a household model, utilizing a modified sensing curve before alarming.

Oddly enough, I never had a problem with the portable generator, but two years later while running the boat over winter, a strong wind was blowing the boat’s engine exhaust into the cabin area while we inside. The CO detector quickly alerted us to a problem and we were able to open the portals to ventilate the area.

The CO Detector is probably one of the most critical optional alarms that should be installed onboard a gasoline powered boat.

That said, I need to get off my butt and get the one I bought last year installed on my F32!

First thing i did was install a CO detector. I also plumbed the exhaust using exhast tubing over rhe gunnel wall to prevent and CO build up. Im going to build a silencing box for it with a 12 volt fan for cooling untill i save up enough for a marine genny.

We have 10-year battery powered CO and smoke detectors in the v-berth and salon. While they are not the marine ones and are more likely to alarm, they have never gone off. I was expecting some issues with them since we often cruise at hull speed and can smell exhaust with a tailwind, but so far, not a problem.

Waywego this is not aimed at you, I believe I know which ones you have , it just came to mind after reading the last couple posts.

This CO stuff strikes a nerve as it is something I took care of at work for years......If your monitors are closing in on 5 years in service, they are due for replacement as the sensors are well past their useful life.FYI.. if they have ever been subjected to 1500 PPM or more I would replace. Now it is my understanding the marine ones are averaging to stay below a number they have chosen which could mean you could be subjected to low levels for quite some time, even though it is below the time weighted average acceptable value.They may be avoiding what they consider to be nuisance alarms with this strategy, the alarm number in industry is 35 PPM, and not time weighted until later, I have seen some large numbers when wind etc is all wrong.

Diesel guys , you are not out of the woods here, this applies to you just the same, granted the numbers are lower but the danger is always present. Carbon based fuel.

Not exactly sure how the home ones average, but the ones with the digital readouts will give you real time numbers which in my opinion is very valuable as you can decide what to do and have a record of the highest PPM the unit was subjected to which can be cleared and reset. Maybe there are some nice marine units out there now, I hope. I have three on our boat and what is interesting is they can all show different numbers for the same occurance.

Ok, rant over and back to the battery thread....everyone be safe.

Blue Sea products worked well on the Instant Fun

You can see the Blue Sea remote battery switches to the right side of the helm, behind the wheel.

This looks so very GOOD!!!

no

AWESOME !!!!!

RWS

David , I wish my wiring looked a 1/10 as good as yours . Nice

Really nice job!!!

DAVIDLOFLAND wrote: ↑Tue Jan 29, 2019 12:38 am Blue Sea products worked well on the Instant Fun

Ok. So we need to talk lol. Id love to pick your brain in your configuration. Like what does the ECU stand for? Why so many different relays? Does relays mean the automatic charging relays or actual relays? We can move this to a private message if you like. Or if phone text is easier please let me know and i can PM you my cell.