Trojan Boat Forum

Anything look off here?

The Trim tabs . And prop nuts on wrong .

Good eye!

Trojan didn’t install factory tabs like this, correct?

And what is incorrect with the prop nut?

prowlersfish wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 9:25 pm The Trim tabs . And prop nuts on wrong .

Sorry - missing something here. What's wrong with the tab? Admittedly it seems to be installed a bit further aft than it should be (hinge should be right at the transom) but otherwise not seeing anything wrong, unless I am missing something due to picture quality.

Briank117 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:15 pm Good eye!

Trojan didn’t install factory tabs like this, correct?

And what is incorrect with the prop nut?

captainmaniac wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:46 pm

Sorry - missing something here. What's wrong with the tab? Admittedly it seems to be installed a bit further aft than it should be (hinge should be right at the transom) but otherwise not seeing anything wrong, unless I am missing something due to picture quality.

Tabs normally are mounted to the transom not the bottom and the look like they been repaired or ? Prop nuts by the book thin nut first then the thick nut .

Thanks for the info on the prop nuts.

I have never seen tabs mounted to the bottom before. I walked around the marina looking at other older boats and their tabs were mounted on the transom—as I thought they should be. Coincidentally, I had water seeping from where the port tab is mounted; to which I was able to locate 2 mounting screws that the heads are broken off.

Planning to remove the tabs, and access their condition. In the mean time, if i drill out the broken screws, and fill with 5200 (along with other holes)—should that be sufficient?

Not the place for 5200 . Taper and fill the holes with a thickened epoxy ( Six10 would be my choice ) or Marinetex . Then cover the holes with a layer of cloth w/epoxy like west system . Or reg fiberglass resin if you prefer , but epoxy is my choice by far .

Save the 5200 to bed the tabs and screws on the transom .



Walk around the boat yard you will find half of the prop nuts are on wrong . Is it a big issue ? Not really .

Hmmmm.. my tabs are mounted on the hull bottom, with hinge tight to and parallel with transom. Maybe it was a model year thing? Added Bennett tabs to my father's 1969 28' Sea Skiff, and do recall cutting and shaping shims for the transom curve to mount the tabs, but need someone to explain how / why bottom mounted tabs are a problem? As far as I know, factory original.

captainmaniac wrote: ↑Fri Jan 03, 2020 9:51 pm Hmmmm.. my tabs are mounted on the hull bottom, with hinge tight to and parallel with transom. Maybe it was a model year thing? Added Bennett tabs to my father's 1969 28' Sea Skiff, and do recall cutting and shaping shims for the transom curve to mount the tabs, but need someone to explain how / why bottom mounted tabs are a problem? As far as I know, factory original.

Problem with it mounted on he bottom ? Not much really . A slight increase in drag when mount like in the photo . Would you notice ? likely not . Now there are many cases where boat builders will mount them to the bottom . When this is done there is normally a recessed area in the hull bottom so it stays flush . Also in many cases the cylinder is in a cut out area ,this done so the tab is not sticking out beyond the transom . Why ? So you don't cut a line when fighting a fish . I have only seen 1 Trojan done this way a F36 do not know if it was factory or not .

Will do some digging on Trojan installs and post .

https://insta-trim.com/heavy-duty-trim- ... tion-help/

Here is a photo off the recess tabs on a F36 (Oil and water ) Wish it was a close up but you can see the tab is reccesed in hull bottom and cylnders into the transom . Factory ?? I don't know will find out I am thinking not .

Was able to pull the tabs off this morning before the rain hit here in Maryland.

Port side tab was missing 2 screws, and the remaining screws were rusted/corroded. Tips rusted away. 1 or two were ate away to the thickness a drywall screw.

Starboard screws came out good as new.

Whoever the did install, must have used a tube of sealant on each tab mounting plate.

Now to fix and put everything back together...

Briank117 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 04, 2020 9:49 pm Was able to pull the tabs off this morning before the rain hit here in Maryland.

Port side tab was missing 2 screws, and the remaining screws were rusted/corroded. Tips rusted away. 1 or two were ate away to the thickness a drywall screw.

Starboard screws came out good as new.

Whoever the did install, must have used a tube of sealant on each tab mounting plate.

Now to fix and put everything back together...

The following has been updated and edited :
Your tabs are not factory installed per Bob. Turns out the photo I posted is ( early F36) While yours not factory it likely would not hurt to repair the screws and leave them there if you want . While mounting to the stern would be my choice , make sure the hinges will move that far and you will clear the platform mounts . The hinge on your tabs looks like its been replaced or maybe repaired . I have a set out in the shop I will look at them and compare the hinge .

anything on the wetted surface of the hull will increase friction.

period

of course, thru hulls are necessary, but the smoother, the better.

RWS

Instra-trim ,tab . This is a factory installed tab off a 10 meter . (don't tell RWS)

Definitely a difference there. What determines if tabs need zinc’s or not? My last boat had tabs, but no zincs. Same with the Trojan.

Next on my to-do list—-I removed the fresh water tank yesterday. Planning to install a different size/shape tank before spring. But for now, it’s to allow room for me move around to “hopefully” be able to drain my tanks, and raise them just enough for access to replace the prop strut bolts and backing plates—without removing the floor. Both sides leak, and the wooden backing plates are soft.

Please correct me if I’m wrong, but is this as simple as placing a jack under the strut so it doesn’t move, remove and replace old bolts, re-bed in 5200, install new backing plates & tighten?