10 meter Express New Dash/Console Project

[my10meter]

Well, ran into a stumbling block. Previous owner secured the old dash with 5200 and it is stuck down. Going to see if I can. get a wire to cut it. This is why I do not recommend 5200 for anything. 4200 has excellent adhesion properties and is removable. As far as I am concerned. the entire boat needs to be serviceable and 5200 is not your friend for this

[WayWeGo]

An oscillating tool might work if the access is good. There are some release agents available that might also help.

[P-Dogg]

Well, ran into a stumbling block. Previous owner secured the old dash with 5200 and it is stuck down. Going to see if I can. get a wire to cut it. This is why I do not recommend 5200 for anything. 4200 has excellent adhesion properties and is removable. As far as I am concerned. the entire boat needs to be serviceable and 5200 is not your friend for this

Try Marine Debond.

Slice into it as you can with a blade. Apply Marine Debond. Wait. Rinse and repeat.... Should go pretty easy.

If you look at the properties of 5200 vs 4200, you will see 5200 has its place. I would not have used 5200 for the dash, but it is certainly useful for below-the-waterline applications like bonding of struts and through-hulls. Oh, and I recently re-bonded my hull-to-deck joint -- all of it -- and used 5200 there too....

[my10meter]

Did some fairing on the console as well as cutting holes for gauges and instrumentation. Also, I layed up the back panel with plywood coring to put all if the electrical connections on. We are just about ready for paint on the console itself

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[prowlersfish]

Coming a long nicely .

[mrrudely]

very impressive!
quite the undertaking
thanks for the blow by blow

[my10meter]

Added some indicator lights. Being a charter captain it is important to identify potential failures. The amber light will indicate when the vacuflush pump is activated just in case something keeps the seal open...this has happened leading to diaphragm failure. The green indicator is for the wash down pump in case it gets airlocked or the nozzle doesn't close. The 3 reds are bilge pump indicators.

[RWS]

looking good!

RWS

[drudodson]

Great job and inspiring! Boat low voltage wiring intimidates the hell out of me for some reason. I've rewired plenty of line voltage in the houses I've remodeled. But those little 12 volt wires and fuses and colors - I don't seem to get it. Admire you for tackling this.

[my10meter]

Making progress on wiring. Here is a test of gauges and 1 of the switch panels.

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[my10meter]

Here is the back panel. I laid it up with resin coated 1/2"ply glassed to the inside. Terminal strips are labeled. Blue seas dimmer to control instrument lighting. Rectangular boxes are stall/no oil pressure buzzers

[my10meter]

Finally got the dash free. After many methods did not work. an additional 2 hours of prying got it off. You can see I also removed the hard to find Morse SF controls that I will offer here before listing online.

Test fit the dash again after clearanced out for the door as you can see in the pics before I removed the controls.

[my10meter]

Today, I removed the SF controls and widened holes for the top mount Morse.

[RWS]

coming along very nicely

Goodbye Starship Enterprise, Hello THE 21ST CENTURY !

RWS

P.S. Would love to buy your old dash panel & pod

[my10meter]

Making headway on the wiring. Just put the heat gun to these connections. This loom will have tobe removed for paint and install. Next is preparing the boat side of the wiring.