Trojan Boat Forum

Has anyone replaced their distributors on the M360 engines? What had to be done with wiring as far as the ballast resistor or any other ignition components?

That would depend on the system your installing. And are you replacing points or factory electronic? I asume factor electronic?

Yes I was planning to replace the distributor in the factory electronic ignition package. Just curious on what or if I need to bypass in the old electronic system and how to do it. I was planning to install a pertronix distributor D241800 or D241801 with flamethrower 40111 coil

thanks

Yes stick with those distributors. We did our starboard engine in July. You can remove ballast resistor and ignition module. Clean up the wiring too. Check with beacon marine, they might have a use for those parts or any one else out there too. I'll do my port engine in spring. I did find less gas used on that starboard engine after change out. It starts quicker too. Any questions email me. Glad to help. By the way, good prices at summit racing and they are fast shippers for these parts.

So removing the ballast resistor did you have to install jumpers across the connectors or just unplug the connectors. What about removing the ignition module? Do you just unplug it or do you need to do some other wiring?

I did this on my engines. If you are going protronics you will have to replace the coil. The new wiring is simple. Just follow the protronics wiring. Be sure that the coil matches the module you are installing. you can remove any unused wires or tie them up

I did this on my engines. If you are going protronics you will have to replace the coil. The new wiring is simple. Just follow the protronics wiring. Be sure that the coil matches the module you are installing. you can remove any unused wires or tie them up

I installed the distributor and new coil. Can’t get it to fire up. Bypassed and removed the ballast resistors. What wires need to be connected to coil along with the wires from the distributor?

TADTOOMUCH wrote: ↑Sat Apr 16, 2022 1:46 pm I installed the distributor and new coil. Can’t get it to fire up. Bypassed and removed the ballast resistors. What wires need to be connected to coil along with the wires from the distributor?

Make sure you have 12 volts to the coil + key on and cranking Did you hook it up per the diagram? If yes try disconnecting the tach wire .

Now you gotta make sure the firing order is correct and in the right spot. You might be 180° off?

I went through the same thing with two pertonix and two 318's. It runs perfect now, but initially I was 180° off, then I was 30° off - now it's perfect.

Best of luck
Brooks

What about the four or five pin connector to the ignition module do I need that plugged in or not?

TADTOOMUCH wrote: ↑Sat Apr 23, 2022 6:25 pm What about the four or five pin connector to the ignition module do I need that plugged in or not?

The factory module ? Unplug it.

What about the voltage regulator box do I still need that plugged in? I can't get this thing to fire up. I have the #1 lined up with the rotor on the compression stroke and the correct firing order but can't get her to fire? If I unplug the factory module I get no spark. When I crank her I only get one spark from the coil to ground then nothing else after that first spark. Any help would be appreciated. Very frustrating for something so simple.

TADTOOMUCH wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:50 pm What about the voltage regulator box do I still need that plugged in? I can't get this thing to fire up. I have the #1 lined up with the rotor on the compression stroke and the correct firing order but can't get her to fire? If I unplug the factory module I get no spark. When I crank her I only get one spark from the coil to ground then nothing else after that first spark. Any help would be appreciated. Very frustrating for something so simple.

A question, how did you bypass the ballast resister? I believe the start and run wires to the ballast should have been joined together.You need power from the key to ignition in both positions.Test it with your multi meter. The volt reg is needed to control alt unless you have an alt with internal control. Those little boxes are a bit finicky but generally they just fail, try the one from the other engine.

mikeandanne wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 6:33 pm

TADTOOMUCH wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:50 pm What about the voltage regulator box do I still need that plugged in? I can't get this thing to fire up. I have the #1 lined up with the rotor on the compression stroke and the correct firing order but can't get her to fire? If I unplug the factory module I get no spark. When I crank her I only get one spark from the coil to ground then nothing else after that first spark. Any help would be appreciated. Very frustrating for something so simple.

A question, how did you bypass the ballast resister? I believe the start and run wires to the ballast should have been joined together.You need power from the key to ignition in both positions.Test it with your multi meter. The volt reg is needed to control alt unless you have an alt with internal control. Those little boxes are a bit finicky but generally they just fail, try the one from the other engine.

What is your source of 12 volts to the coil ?