Resealing a Shaft Strut
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Resealing a Shaft Strut
Ahoy gang. Just wondering if anyone has ever removed thier shaft strut to reseal and repair the backing plate. Other than marking the strut outline were it meets the hull for a reference point when reattaching is a laser level line needed or are the mating surfaces of the shaft and tranny couplers the other reference points? Just asking because I'm starting the engine removal project on my F-26 and I think the strut should be repaired before engine and tranny removal. Thanks from any responses Brian
Here's a link to an interesting article regarding shaft and strut alignment: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Alignment2.htm
Hi Brian,
I removed the strut on two separate occasions from my (former) F-26. Once for general maintenance, and again when I had to replace the cutlass bearing after getting a pot line wrapped around the shaft.
I recommend doing the strut before you pull the engine and shaft, as they will help you get the strut re-aligned. If you remove everything at once, it will be more difficult to line things up when you put it back. You can remove the 4 bolts from the strut, and slide the strut off the back of the shaft after removing the prop. Don't disconnect the shaft from the transmission, and the shaft will act as a guide when you put the strut back. The shaft will be supported reasonably well between the transmission and the stuffing box, helping you with left to right alignment of the strut. I used 3M5200 to seal the bolts to the hull when I re-mounted it. While you have it off, you might as well do the cutlass bearing.
When you pull the engine out. Think about replacing the outer rubber hose on the stuffing box while you are in there. If it's worn and tired, it's likely original, and due for replacement. You don't want to have to go through this again in a year or two if you leave the stuffing box this time around.
I replaced the original backing block on my strut with a piece of marine plywood which I coated with epoxy resin before installing it to prevent water absorption. You can get silicone bronze carriage bolts for the strut at Jamestown distributors http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... D&history=, (they are about $1.50 each (plus nuts and washers), but will last another 30 years.)
After the strut back in place, you can remove the engine shaft and stuffing box. When re-installing the engine it can take a while to re-align things. I used a feeler gauge,and iteratively adjusted the engine mounts to get the the transmission parallel and concentric with the shaft coupling. A chain-fall, some sturdy levers, and shims are helpful in re-alignment. You probably want to move the engine around until it's almost aligned, then use the adjustments on the engine mounts to tweak it in. I found it helpful to bring the shaft coupler up to the transmission and rotate the shaft to verify the transmission flange was concentric and parallel to the shaft. This can be a tedious process and you should disconnect the shaft from the transmission again after the boat has been in the water and run a few hours to make sure things haven't moved.
Good Luck,
Chuck
I removed the strut on two separate occasions from my (former) F-26. Once for general maintenance, and again when I had to replace the cutlass bearing after getting a pot line wrapped around the shaft.
I recommend doing the strut before you pull the engine and shaft, as they will help you get the strut re-aligned. If you remove everything at once, it will be more difficult to line things up when you put it back. You can remove the 4 bolts from the strut, and slide the strut off the back of the shaft after removing the prop. Don't disconnect the shaft from the transmission, and the shaft will act as a guide when you put the strut back. The shaft will be supported reasonably well between the transmission and the stuffing box, helping you with left to right alignment of the strut. I used 3M5200 to seal the bolts to the hull when I re-mounted it. While you have it off, you might as well do the cutlass bearing.
When you pull the engine out. Think about replacing the outer rubber hose on the stuffing box while you are in there. If it's worn and tired, it's likely original, and due for replacement. You don't want to have to go through this again in a year or two if you leave the stuffing box this time around.
I replaced the original backing block on my strut with a piece of marine plywood which I coated with epoxy resin before installing it to prevent water absorption. You can get silicone bronze carriage bolts for the strut at Jamestown distributors http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... D&history=, (they are about $1.50 each (plus nuts and washers), but will last another 30 years.)
After the strut back in place, you can remove the engine shaft and stuffing box. When re-installing the engine it can take a while to re-align things. I used a feeler gauge,and iteratively adjusted the engine mounts to get the the transmission parallel and concentric with the shaft coupling. A chain-fall, some sturdy levers, and shims are helpful in re-alignment. You probably want to move the engine around until it's almost aligned, then use the adjustments on the engine mounts to tweak it in. I found it helpful to bring the shaft coupler up to the transmission and rotate the shaft to verify the transmission flange was concentric and parallel to the shaft. This can be a tedious process and you should disconnect the shaft from the transmission again after the boat has been in the water and run a few hours to make sure things haven't moved.
Good Luck,
Chuck
formerly
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Thanks MattSC for that helpful link it will come in handy. Thanks Chucka for the advise. Yup just as I thought repair/reseal strut/backing block and cutlass bearing before removal of Engine and Trans assembly.The backing plate along with carriage bolt nuts are located under gas tank which is dissconnected and ready for removal. Just wondering if I should measure shaft size for cutlass bearing replacement or if the prop shop will be able to replace with the correct size. Yes stuffing box/shaft log assembly will be replaced with new components later in the project. Shaft is pretty well pitted in places I plan on a whole new shaft with prop if my prop is not repairable. Just need to find a prop puller if a little heat doesn't work first. Will the shaft be able to be removed thru the engine compartment after motor/trans assembly is removed? I think theres enough room I don't like the looks of that shaft coupler looks like it will need a lot of persuasion,but thats all part on the game time and energy! Thanks again for the advise Brian
I see Lot's of Luck is looking for a new owner!
Great Vessel for the right person?
I see Lot's of Luck is looking for a new owner!
Great Vessel for the right person?
With the engine out, and the prop removed, the shaft will slide slide out inside the boat. You are right about having a tough time removing the coupler from the shaft. Take it to a prop shop before you spend too much time on that. I spent a ton of effort to remove the coupler from my old shaft, and the prop shop told me I should just replace it. You can have the shop where you buy the shaft press on the new coupling, and they will face it on a lathe to make sure the coupling is square to the shaft. I had some huge pits in the original shaft I replaced after almost 30 years of salt water service.
I just found the package from my last cutlass bearing replacement (still on my workbench) The size is 1x1.250x4. I used a hacksaw to cut through the shell of the old cutlass bearing, then pried it out of the strut casting. when you press the new bearing into the strut, put a nice coating of grease on the shell, and inside the strut to help it slide in. I could tell you a story about pressing it in, but I'll save that for another time.
Lots A Luck has another new owner (After the guy who bought her from me.)
I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a sailboat purchase. (Going over to the dark side)
Best,
Chuck
I just found the package from my last cutlass bearing replacement (still on my workbench) The size is 1x1.250x4. I used a hacksaw to cut through the shell of the old cutlass bearing, then pried it out of the strut casting. when you press the new bearing into the strut, put a nice coating of grease on the shell, and inside the strut to help it slide in. I could tell you a story about pressing it in, but I'll save that for another time.
Lots A Luck has another new owner (After the guy who bought her from me.)
I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a sailboat purchase. (Going over to the dark side)
Best,
Chuck
formerly
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
what is the blow boat are you looking at?
Last edited by MTP on Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
TIKI III
1985 F32
270 Crusaders
Wet and happy
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 9727_n.jpg
1985 F32
270 Crusaders
Wet and happy
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 9727_n.jpg
Thanks for the compliments on the "rag boat." She should be on the hard by the end of this week.
Brian, I prefer west systems 105 epoxy resin with their 205 fast hardener, unless I'm working in really hot weather in which case I use 206 slow. Sadly, heat won't be an issue for quite a while now.
For longest life, drill the mounting holes in the backing block before you coat it with resin. if you seal all of the edges well it should last indefinitely.
Chuck
Brian, I prefer west systems 105 epoxy resin with their 205 fast hardener, unless I'm working in really hot weather in which case I use 206 slow. Sadly, heat won't be an issue for quite a while now.
For longest life, drill the mounting holes in the backing block before you coat it with resin. if you seal all of the edges well it should last indefinitely.
Chuck
formerly
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
I used marine plywood. I had some left over from rebuilding the cockpit deck.
I used both lock washers and flat washers to mount the strut.
I looked in my hardware box and I have a small quantity of 3/8 Si-Bronze nuts, flat washers, and lock washers left over. You can buy these from Jamestown distributors, but they have minimum quantities. $25.80 for a box of 100 3/8 Si-Bronze nuts. McMaster-Carr has them for $10.86 per pack of 25.
How much of a hurry are you in? I expect to be in Plymouth by Thanksgiving at the latest. For $5 I'll set you up with 5 pairs of 3/8-16 Si-Bronze Nuts, with flat-washers and lock-washers, and you will just have to get the carriage bolts. I still have some 1/2" marine plywood from building the hard-top. For another $5, I'll bring you a piece big enough for your strut backing plate to save you from buying a whole sheet. Email me the dimensions if you are interested.
If I come by, you'll have to give me a tour of your boat.
Best,
Chuck
I used both lock washers and flat washers to mount the strut.
I looked in my hardware box and I have a small quantity of 3/8 Si-Bronze nuts, flat washers, and lock washers left over. You can buy these from Jamestown distributors, but they have minimum quantities. $25.80 for a box of 100 3/8 Si-Bronze nuts. McMaster-Carr has them for $10.86 per pack of 25.
How much of a hurry are you in? I expect to be in Plymouth by Thanksgiving at the latest. For $5 I'll set you up with 5 pairs of 3/8-16 Si-Bronze Nuts, with flat-washers and lock-washers, and you will just have to get the carriage bolts. I still have some 1/2" marine plywood from building the hard-top. For another $5, I'll bring you a piece big enough for your strut backing plate to save you from buying a whole sheet. Email me the dimensions if you are interested.
If I come by, you'll have to give me a tour of your boat.
Best,
Chuck
formerly
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Thanks Chucka. I might just take you up on those deals. I will email you soon. Yup I have the full court press going on the strut repair/replacement its at the prop shop and hope to pick it next week. The weather up here is pretty gloomy and it would be a good weekend to epoxy the backing block in a heated garage. The strut repairs holding up the motor and tranny removal feels like snow in the air. I'm also replacing the seacock along with the backing block. Did you replace the original grocco tapered plug unit on Lots of Luck? just wondering Talk to you later Brian
I put in a new bronze seacock (and backing block) for the engine coolant intake. The original seacock was distorted and wouldn't operate smoothly no matter how well lubricated it was. I still have the orgininal in my shop. I'm a bit of a pack rat. My father says "If it doesn't stink, don't throw it out."
I never got to replacing the seacock for the holding tank overboard discharge. That one had a rubber lined tapered plug and I never had a problem with it. The one on the holding tank had a lock bolt that clamped the tapered rubber plug into the fitting, and I usually just left it closed for the entire season. I would lubricate it once per year.
Regards,
Chuck
I never got to replacing the seacock for the holding tank overboard discharge. That one had a rubber lined tapered plug and I never had a problem with it. The one on the holding tank had a lock bolt that clamped the tapered rubber plug into the fitting, and I usually just left it closed for the entire season. I would lubricate it once per year.
Regards,
Chuck
formerly
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI