Cutlass bearing for a 76 Trojan!
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Cutlass bearing for a 76 Trojan!
I have a 1976 Trojan 26' with a 233 MerCruiser with a BG 1to 1 velvet drive and want to know the shaft diameter or what size cutlass bearing is needed for replacement. Also,any tricks on getting the old one out ????? I noticed that today when we were on the water and I was going to open it up, it started cutting out at 3400 rpm's, as soon as I brought it back it to 3375 rpm's it ran smooth. Any helpful hints????
Cutless Bearing
My '78 F-26 has a Ø1.000" shaft on a 1:1 Velvet Drive trans. Your marine mechanic should have a clamp style press that will push the old bearing out of the strut and the new one in without removing the shaft. The prop however will have to come off. I don't imagine that he will lend you this tool but if the boat is out of the water, it should be a fairly quick job for him to do.
As far as the engine cutting out @ 3400rpm, assuming that the engine is in a fairly good state of tune, it sounds to me like a fuel starvation problem. The first thing to ckeck is that the shut off valve is wide open and that there are no kinks in the fuel line. Next, check for a blockage(restriction) in the fuel filter, fuel pump, suction or pick up tube, anti-syphon valve or possibly at the carb itself. Keep in mind that debris in the tank can block the passage in the pick up tube or the anti-syphon valve before the filter gets a chance to filter it out.
Hope This Helps
Paul
Cruise Control
As far as the engine cutting out @ 3400rpm, assuming that the engine is in a fairly good state of tune, it sounds to me like a fuel starvation problem. The first thing to ckeck is that the shut off valve is wide open and that there are no kinks in the fuel line. Next, check for a blockage(restriction) in the fuel filter, fuel pump, suction or pick up tube, anti-syphon valve or possibly at the carb itself. Keep in mind that debris in the tank can block the passage in the pick up tube or the anti-syphon valve before the filter gets a chance to filter it out.
Hope This Helps
Paul
Cruise Control
cutting out!
Thanks Cruise Control, The engine is in a good state of tune...It has a 2 barrel Rochester and since this problem started I have wondered if one of the two screws located at the bottom of the carb. has backed out. I don't know which one does what or where they are supposed to be. When its running right, it should tach out about 4000 rpm.....or has in the past.
Idle Screws
The 2 screws at the base of the carb are the idle jet screws. These screws are held in tension by springs to keep them from backing out after adjustment. To adjust these screws, turn them in (clockwise) until they just bottom (not tight), then back them out 1 1/2 turns. Run the engine at normal operating temperature and adjust the screws in(lean) or out(rich) 1/4 turn at a time until you get a smooth idle. You may then have to re-adjust the idle speed screw at the linkage to the desired RPM. Then put the boat in gear at idle. If it want's to stall, it's probably too lean. Adjust accordingly.
Now that I've explained your idle jets, I will also tell you that I doubt very much that they are what's causing your engine to cut out @ 3400rpm. At this speed the main jets(not adjustable) are what is feeding the engine.
Keep Looking
Paul
Cruise Control
Now that I've explained your idle jets, I will also tell you that I doubt very much that they are what's causing your engine to cut out @ 3400rpm. At this speed the main jets(not adjustable) are what is feeding the engine.
Keep Looking
Paul
Cruise Control
One more thing, and you're not going to want to hear this.....check the tank itself. I have a 1977 and had the same problem as you. But the top RPMs slowly worked down to 2000. Had the engine tuned, but kept on finding crud in the fuel filter. Turned out it was rust from the inside of the orignal (galv steel) tank. Replaced the tank with stock 50 gal plastic tank and it has run like a top for the past 3 years. WOT 4200 rpm, cruise all day at 3200 rpm (about 18 mph on the GPS).
Paul, I didn't want you to think I took your words of wisdom and hauled butt without a reply. I'm in the seafood business and had to hit the road for a couple of days and do appreciate what you wrote about my problems I'm having. I won't get to my boat until Friday night but I will show up with a new fuel filter and I will check the idle screws and also pull the inline filter located at the base of the carb. I'll keep you posted on what happens after that....wvernie........................RandyP, I also thought about that gas tank because it is the orginial but appears to be in good shape visually, I would have to pull part of the deck up to pull the sending unit out to stick a hose in there and do some siphoning to see what comes out. The fuel filter may tell the story.....thanks for the reply!
Carb Rebuild Kit
A carb rebuild kit is < $50 - and is a good idea as well - the Roch 2BBl is easy - less than 2 hours out/rebuild/in ... then adjust idle as mentioned above.
Fuel lines are next ... check and replace - these are dangerous if old.
Cherk your timing - vibration can cause the distributor to turn slightly if not tight. Once its set (8 deg BTDC?) - lock it down. (good chance to switch to stainless 9/16" bolt).
Quick check of plug wires and replace the plugs .
Do you have a fuel/water sep? If not - add one! Lifesaver!
If these fail - the tanks are suspect - but you will have the engine tuned perfectly!
Fuel lines are next ... check and replace - these are dangerous if old.
Cherk your timing - vibration can cause the distributor to turn slightly if not tight. Once its set (8 deg BTDC?) - lock it down. (good chance to switch to stainless 9/16" bolt).
Quick check of plug wires and replace the plugs .
Do you have a fuel/water sep? If not - add one! Lifesaver!
If these fail - the tanks are suspect - but you will have the engine tuned perfectly!
Captain Ross, 2009 Trojan Boater of the Year
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
"Viva Mahia" F32 Cummins 6BTA diesels,
"Mack Attack" Chaparral 244 Fish, SeaPro 180, McKee 14, Montauk-17
The tanks may look BEAUUUUUTIFUL on the outside, but it's the rust on the INSIDE that you don't see. That's exactly what happened with mine. The rust was coating the inside, most likely from condensation in the tank over the years (I was the 4th owner, and although I knew the boat well, had no idea of the previous owners' maintenance, or lack if it). A 30 year old boat with steel tanks......gonna get rust. You most likely won't see it by siphoning off the bottom of the tank (but you sure as heck would see water if it's in there). It's not a small job. You can access the tank by removing the screws in the aft deck panel..no big deal. But if you have rust it WILL show up in your filter(s). I also agree with all the other advice about tuning, etc, and get yourself a water separation filter and check the water level off the filter regularly, expecially a day after a fill up. You shut off the gas at the filter, unscrew the filter (just like an oil filter) then pour the gas from the filter into a clear glass jar (about a cup of gas will come out of the filter). If the bottom of the jar shows clear, you got some water in your gas. Small amounts will usually get burned through, but if you see 1/4 to 1/2 inch you're either hesitating or not moving....I speak from experience, unfortunately....came from filling my gas tank and water tank at the same time....both fill ports are on the same (port ) side of the boat!! 
After everything I have done to this boat looking for the cutting out above 3400 rpm's it came down to the electronic conversion I installed about 3 years ago, I had the old points and condensor and I put them in and the boat ran like it was supposed to......however I seem to have a low voltage problem that probably shortened the life of the conversion kit in the distributor. I'm getting 10.7 volts to the coil and I need 13.5 to the distributor with the electronic kit to make it work right....so I've been told. Any comments on this.