Fuel Line Replacement or frozen nut removal

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dollarbill
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Fuel Line Replacement or frozen nut removal

Post by dollarbill »

I am replacing my Fuel Pump on my a 318LM --- one problem that I am going to encounter is that the nut on the copper line to the Carb from the old fuel pump is fast on its way to being stripped... any suggestions?? I have tried wd40 but it is not budging...

Thinking ahead....

If I cannot get that nut off... I will need to replace that fuel line... what to replace it with??? It is copper... and the copper has done well so far so I would like to go back with it... but who makes copper fuel lines?? I have called some Industrial supply places that make hydraulic hoses thinking they may handle other types... they said no....

Thanks....
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Post by Dan Faith »

Go to a propane supplier. They can make one up for you with the correct copper and the proper fittings. Take you old one with you.
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larglo
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Post by larglo »

Can a flexible fuel line be used? Copper makes me nervous, vibration could cause the copper to crack, leak,,,and boom!

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Danny Bailey
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Post by Danny Bailey »

Use your vise grips to get it off then replace it with hose barbs and marine grade fuel hose, or find you a SS braided teflon hose in McMaster Carr and put that on there. Copper on an engine will work harden and crack.
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
ltbrett
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Post by ltbrett »

Vice grips are a bit of a last resort. Flare wrenches are best, but you may have entered the vice grip zone.

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alexander38
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Post by alexander38 »

I'd say he's in the vise-grip zone. You need to get some PT-Blaster to loosen up the Tread-lock that's most likely on the fittin' and take the tubing to gas shop or a good mom and pop garage/marina and have a steel one made or if you have a good hose shop in town they can make S/S braided hose rated rated for corn gas.
Last edited by alexander38 on Thu May 06, 2010 3:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Big D
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Post by Big D »

Just a note of caution; I've ran into more than one surveyor that was not happy to see a braided section of fuel line installed as they cannot tell what type of line is under the braid. It then becomes a red flag on the survey.
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Post by Danny Bailey »

'Surveyors' are part of the socialist plot, like insurance. I don't let them near my boat.
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rooferdave
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Post by rooferdave »

try fluid film, wd 40 is mostly water and not really great for freeing up frozen parts. Be prepared to apply and give it 24 hours to do its stuff, check out their website
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Big D
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Post by Big D »

Just putting the surveyor thing out there for those that do use them!
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And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
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alexander38
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Post by alexander38 »

What is fluid film ? :?
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Post by Jerry »

http://www.fluid-film.com/

The stuff really works!
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Post by Danny Bailey »

Hey no problem on the surveyors. Some of my best friends and even some family members use them. :lol:
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
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Post by rossjo »

Jerry,

That Fluid Film looks pretty good. Where are you guys buying it? Is it expensive in the spray can?

I use Boeshield T9 http://www.boeshield.com/ - developed by Boeing for corrosion protection on aircraft, but its expensive (even when I buy at wholesale). According to Powerboat Reports, "Our test of greases, oils and aerosols finds Boeshield T-9® and good old Vaseline are best buys in protecting metal brightwork."
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Post by Danny Bailey »

The best penetrating oil I've found for loosening rusted or corroded threaded connections is PB Blaster. I would not expect a fuel line fitting on a carb to be excessively rusted or corroded. It should come right out with a good pair of vise grips.
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
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