F32 Stability

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:02 am

You won't find a 28-34' convertible with more space inside than a Trojan F32. The only similar setup is the older Silverton 34.

As for side decks, the Santego 27 had none that crew can use to go from the back to the front. These side decks are important in docking situations.

Lastly, you must consider the difference between I/Os and Inboards when left in the water. If in Saltwater, the I/Os will eventually be eaten by galvanic corrosion. I would never buy a boat with I/Os which have been left in saltwater - seen too many simply eaten to the point they fall apart and the outdrives need to be replaced @ $2-8k (depends on how much of the work you want to do yourself) a piece.

The 2nd issue with I/Os is bellows. If these bellows rip, tear or are eaten by a hungry Beaver or Otter, your boat sinks. I would not be comfortable knowing my investment was protected from sinking by simple rubber bellows (on 2 engines - doubling your exposure). For the records, I am not prejudice against I/Os - I own an Mercruiser Bravo-1 I/O powered boat, but she's a trailer queen.

Last advice. Its a buyers market now, so this is the cheapest that diesel boats have been in years. Might look for diesels at gas prices while the time is here. More reliable, no ignition or ethanol gas to deal with, almost no risk of fire, etc. Once you go diesel you'll never go back.

Happy hunting - this is one of the most fun/entertaining time in your boating life ... and its a buyers market ... I'm jealous!

wowzer52 · Post by **wowzer52** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 11:37 pm

It cost me $7,500 to replace an outdrive that got eaten along with the gimble housing and everything else. It was the boat next to me that had the electrical problem but I paid the price.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:24 am

cost noted.

Yes - the corrosion is especially bad in Marinas with stray currents coming form many source. The outdrive is aluminum and gets eaten long before Stainless, Azimut or Brass. Once eaten, the whole outdrive is shot and must be replaced. Its gets very brittle and porous.

I'm always amazed by all the SeaRays with outdrives. Friend had a 27 SeaRay and had to buy 2 new Bravo-3 outdrives @ $5.5k/each and pay to have them installed. Lost months and about $13k to get it fixed. You cold literally snap pieces off of the outdrives with your bare hand.

297Elegante · Post by **297Elegante** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:56 am

prowlersfish wrote:My point is that someone that whats a convertible or open deck style boat would not be interested in a tri or a house boat did not say they where the same .

I'm in the market for a mid 30' Convertible/sedan. Even climbing aboard a 40' Silverton A/C, turned around and got off. Very different style of boat, and definately not really interchangable (IMO).

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:02 pm

Hi Folks,

We looked at a 1977 F32 today and loved it. Overall it looked in pretty nice shape. Newly rebuilt Chrysler 360's, flybridge deck replaced a few years ago, new AC unit, new GPS, new engine synchronizer, new hot water tank, and quite a few other nice features.

I am not very familiar with these boats. I would appreciate some feedback from the forum on some things that I observed may be cause for concern:

1. Floor under the shower may be in bad shape. It makes a crunching sound when you step on it.
2. Several soft spots on the forward deck. In particular around the where the anchor lays. There was a pretty noticeable soft spot on the port side catwalk. About a 12"x12".
3. When I looked under the floor and in some pf the openings along the insides of the boat, I could see where moisture has collected at the junction points where two pieces of wood meet. I could see signs of rot beginning in many of these areas. Is that considered normal for a boat of this vintage?
4. The boat was damp inside the cabin area. The owner keeps a dehumidifier in the galley to help control it. The boat sits closed up Monday through Friday and is used virtually every weekend.
5. The area that the boat is in has had five consecutive days of heavy rain with 50mph winds. There was a small amount of water in the bilge which looked pretty good to me. There were three small leaks on two of the windows.
6. The railing that goes along the sides and front of the boat was mounted well at all anchor points except for one. This one was loose and I could see water pooled around it. Water was clearly penetrating under this mount.
7. The rear vents on the sides of the boat have been sealed off. I know that these vents have been a point of controversy over the years. Is there any issue with them being sealed off all together?
8. The boat has an original Kohler generator that runs. The broker suggested that if this was his boat he would get rid of it even though it works. He feels the lack of safety features on a generator of this vintage warrant getting rid of it.
9. The boat was grounded about 15 years ago which left the boat stranded for nearly a day. After it was pulled out it needed towed back to the marina. My understanding is that the drives were damaged to the point that the boat could not be driven under it's own power. The water was taken on during the grounding.

I am getting a survey but would appreciate any input from the folks that know these boats.

On another topic, I am buying the boat out of town and have talked with two surveyors. Neither one really impressed me. One of them uses thermal imaging photography to evaluate the boat for structural integrity. Does anyone know if this is of much value?

Thanks,
Jim

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:18 pm

Walk away!!
Save your survey money and use it for travel to other boats... there are many F32's in better condition to look at.
The fore deck problems you saw will cost a lot of money and time relative to the purchase price.
The boat sounds quite wet...... not a good thing, have you seen signs of mold, it can be hard to get rid off.... and is bad for ones health.

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:56 pm

I pulled one of the air conditioning registers and saw quite a bit of mold on the wood behind the register cover. I also saw what looked like mold in many of the wood junction points inside the walls.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:16 pm

Use caution and problems should figure in to price. These are not uncommon issues so you may find the same problems on others

This is a 35 year old boat , and it would be hard to find old in perfect condition and if you did you would pay dearly for it , This goes for any make or model .

I have no idea what the price is so I can't say if its worth it or not . And even if I did I would have to see it to give good answer .

..........................................................................................................

Just saw your new post on the mold , I would use caution for sure .

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:27 am

JimK wrote:I pulled one of the air conditioning registers and saw quite a bit of mold on the wood behind the register cover. I also saw what looked like mold in many of the wood junction points inside the walls.

Look for one without this... if it remains in areas you can't get at it will spread back into areas you have cleaned in time.... breathing air around mold spores can cause asthma etc.....
i would not want to touch a partially sunk boat that this sounds like no matter the price.....
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/ ... 74621&url=

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:40 am

Thank you all for the input. Sounds like I've come across a bit of a basket case and need to move on. I had some pictures of some of the problem areas that I was going to post in case anyone would like to see. I can't seem to figure out how. I will look into how to post pictures and go from there.[/img]

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:40 am

Thank you all for the input. Sounds like I've come across a bit of a basket case and need to move on. I had some pictures of some of the problem areas that I was going to post in case anyone would like to see. I can't seem to figure out how. I will look into how to post pictures and go from there.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:10 am

JimK,

Do a quote reply to this message and you will see how to put images in....

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 10:47 am

If it sank in saltwater the wiring, etc. that was below water level needed to be replaced. If it hasn't been, I would walk away.

Mold is a bad sign as well as Michael pointed out.

Have you run it? Those 360's would be great power if running good. DO they look well maintained or are they rust buckets?

Not sure on the thermal imaging? I'm a Mechanical Engineer and never heard of using this to determine a boat's structural integrity. Thermal imaging can show you hot spots on the engine when its running - so that's undoubtedly what he meant. They also can use a moisture meter to determine how much water is in the keel, bulkheads and those soggy deck areas (very time consuming fix).

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 12:28 pm

I just looked back through the posts and don't see any info on what area you are looking / operating in? There are a lot of neglected F32s around, but there are also a bunch that are in great shape. To Paul's point, you won't find a 30+ year old boat in perfect condition, but there are a lot that are much better off than the one you described.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:46 pm

From an earlier post I surmised was in Pittsburgh on the river....
Ontario boats would be a short road trip away....
Also saw one in Stillwater, MN a sweet trip down the river and up to Pittsburgh, would be a great vacation trip