.I couldnt find the locking strip that plugs into the slot on the metal frames and the original were dried cracked missing, I utilized bytul tape to hold the new plexi down and weighted them for a day , I then caulked the glass on the outside and looked great. Whats happening is the butyl tape has let go in some spots and caused a void which the water is getting through, the flex the plexi has conforming to the frame seems to be stroger then the butyl tape and caulking can hold down. any ideas ? I'm thinking of removing the caulk and pressing them back down against the butyl and then trying to get some kind of metal wedge and tap into the channel on the frames and recaulk? sucks when an idea didnt work as well as planned huhf26 windows AGAIN!!
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
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trojanmanXS
- Moderate User
- Posts: 276
- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:21 pm
f26 windows AGAIN!!
ok got the front windows in and looks great ,,,but ,,, were having rain the next three days and I went out to check them and they leak .I couldnt find the locking strip that plugs into the slot on the metal frames and the original were dried cracked missing, I utilized bytul tape to hold the new plexi down and weighted them for a day , I then caulked the glass on the outside and looked great. Whats happening is the butyl tape has let go in some spots and caused a void which the water is getting through, the flex the plexi has conforming to the frame seems to be stroger then the butyl tape and caulking can hold down. any ideas ? I'm thinking of removing the caulk and pressing them back down against the butyl and then trying to get some kind of metal wedge and tap into the channel on the frames and recaulk? sucks when an idea didnt work as well as planned huh
.I couldnt find the locking strip that plugs into the slot on the metal frames and the original were dried cracked missing, I utilized bytul tape to hold the new plexi down and weighted them for a day , I then caulked the glass on the outside and looked great. Whats happening is the butyl tape has let go in some spots and caused a void which the water is getting through, the flex the plexi has conforming to the frame seems to be stroger then the butyl tape and caulking can hold down. any ideas ? I'm thinking of removing the caulk and pressing them back down against the butyl and then trying to get some kind of metal wedge and tap into the channel on the frames and recaulk? sucks when an idea didnt work as well as planned huh-
jefflaw35
im doing my frame way different. The slide glass, im not sure if they will ever NOT leak. Almost considering solid windows completly sealed. I can do this in my mind because I have a wall fan going in and the hatch will bring air flow in. Im kind of making a paint booth cross draft system in my cabin. Not sure if it makes sence to you. I dont want or need A/C just need air flow. My concern is heat and keeping it in.
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32pacemaker
- Registered user
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:42 am
- Location: Portland, OR
front windows on f 26
On my f 26 i deleted the metal frame altogeather and made new plexi windows that were the size of the outside diam. of the frame and used i think a boatlife silacon sealer made just for plexiglass the trick is to use plastic spacers about .080 between the fiberglass and the plexi because ther is some expanstion and contraction with the plexi, i used tee head scerw stainless # 8 x 1 1/4 long , i used the alum frame and made a 1/4 inch plywood template for the new plexi including the scerw holes my boat has been leak free
Trojanman,
I understand your frustration since I went thru the same thing myself trying different sealers until I found what works.
This is what I did. First I removed the old PlexiGlass cleaned every inch of the frames to ensure good adhesion. Then wiped them down with alcohol to remove any residue from the cleaning solution (Mean Green). Then starting with new PlexiGlass windows, I lightly scuffed the mating surface where it will make contact with the frame using a Scotchbright pad (brown) to allow the sealer to also have a mechanical grip on the plastic. Next, I laid a bead of GE Ultra Glaze SSG4000 Structural Glazing Sealant into the frame then placed the Plexiglass into position. I then used bricks wrapped in rags (no scratches) to hold the new windows into their curved position for 24 hrs. The next day I removed the bricks then masked off the edges with green tape and laid a bead of the same sealer around the outside of the window. I used my finger to form it into a nice fillet between the Plexi and the frame. (no locking strips)
It's been 8-9 years now and No Leaks.
A couple things to keep in mind:
- when pressing the PlexiGlass into place, don't squeeze out all of the sealer
- don't try to wipe away excess sealer from the glass, it will smear. Wait until it cures then trim it with a blade
- be sure to trim the PlexiGlass at least 1/8" smaller than the frame all around to allow room for thermal expansion and contraction as the temperature changes. If the fit is too tight the window can loose its seal.
Hope this hepls
I understand your frustration since I went thru the same thing myself trying different sealers until I found what works.
This is what I did. First I removed the old PlexiGlass cleaned every inch of the frames to ensure good adhesion. Then wiped them down with alcohol to remove any residue from the cleaning solution (Mean Green). Then starting with new PlexiGlass windows, I lightly scuffed the mating surface where it will make contact with the frame using a Scotchbright pad (brown) to allow the sealer to also have a mechanical grip on the plastic. Next, I laid a bead of GE Ultra Glaze SSG4000 Structural Glazing Sealant into the frame then placed the Plexiglass into position. I then used bricks wrapped in rags (no scratches) to hold the new windows into their curved position for 24 hrs. The next day I removed the bricks then masked off the edges with green tape and laid a bead of the same sealer around the outside of the window. I used my finger to form it into a nice fillet between the Plexi and the frame. (no locking strips)
It's been 8-9 years now and No Leaks.
A couple things to keep in mind:
- when pressing the PlexiGlass into place, don't squeeze out all of the sealer
- don't try to wipe away excess sealer from the glass, it will smear. Wait until it cures then trim it with a blade
- be sure to trim the PlexiGlass at least 1/8" smaller than the frame all around to allow room for thermal expansion and contraction as the temperature changes. If the fit is too tight the window can loose its seal.
Hope this hepls
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
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P-Dogg
- Active User
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- Location: Near Baltimorgue, Murderland, where they prove every day that gun control doesn't work.
This is good advice. +1 not squeezing all of the sealant out from under the glass, and for adding a second layer of sealant on the outside of the joint too. You can also apply good masking tape around the perimeter at the limt of where you want the sealant to go, wipe the sealant down with your finger to a feather edge onto the outermost edge of the masking tape, then remove the tape while the sealant is still wet. A practice piece might be in order. Good luck.- don't try to wipe away excess sealer from the glass, it will smear. Wait until it cures then trim it with a blade
I needed a less expensive hobby, so I bought a boat!
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trojanmanXS
- Moderate User
- Posts: 276
- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 7:21 pm
yeah Paul; I covered the windows with the canvas that snaps into place so for now there have not been fixed , the wife starts her vacation next week and plans are to purchase the material you suggested and do it that way , will keep you posted I have since moved all the new parts from the living room :"wifes orders" and are now in the basement awaiting her vacation so inside of two weeks I hope to have the inside complete WITH PICS!!!!!