1973 Stalling After Running

[Big D]

Yep could be related to heat soak. Next time before you head back in, turn on the blowers and open the engine hatches.

[Nicksdad]

Ok. I will check each thing. I will open the hatches on the way in too.
It is a Holley 4B carb, is this something that can be repaired somewhat easily?

[Nicksdad]

I don't have blowers. But I will definitely try opening the hatch the entire way back from fishing this weekend.

[captainmaniac]

I don't have blowers

No blowers? That's not good. That is a fundamental safety issue so you should have them installed.

[prowlersfish]

I don't have blowers

No blowers? That's not good. That is a fundamental safety issue so you should have them installed.

That's something I would address Before anything else . Its required by law and is IMO the number one safety item . I would fix or replace your blowers before operating the boat . The term blower can be confusing as the blower really sucks the air fumes out of the boat . The intake for the blower should be in the lowest part of the engine room

[captainmaniac]

the blower really sucks the air fumes out of the boat

Clarification for Paul's post .. the blower sucks any POSSIBLY EXPLOSIVE fumes out of the boat (like gas fumes, or hydrogen fumes from charging batteries, or propane). I know that's what he meant when he wrote 'air fumes' - just wanted to make sure the importance of the blowers is 100% clear.

[prowlersfish]

the blower really sucks the air fumes out of the boat

Clarification for Paul's post .. the blower sucks any POSSIBLY EXPLOSIVE fumes out of the boat (like gas fumes, or hydrogen fumes from charging batteries, or propane). I know that's what he meant when he wrote 'air fumes' - just wanted to make sure the importance of the blowers is 100% clear.

Yes I meant to say air and fumes( EXPLOSIVE fumes), Thanks for catching that. I was in a rush

[Nicksdad]

I may be mistaken, but what I know I have on my model is a 4 inch duct that hangs low next to each engine that is piped to side hull, which basically
seems to allow fumes to escape. There are no mechanical/electric blowers. My boat was certified as a USCGA vessel, I'm surprised
that was not mentioned or flagged?

[larryeddington]

++ on blowers, that said. Bob at Beacon once told me and I believe it accurate that with two large V8 engines fresh air passes in and out the burned exhaust at a very large rate. Let's see 350 ci crusader cranks through 175 ci of air each turn of the crank, and at 4000 rpm you get the picture and that times two for twins. Blowers are definitely needed at startup especially cold or refueling startup, but underway at speed does not seem to me to help much. In fact might be the opposite, engine sucking large quantities of area in and blower pushing air the other way may be fighting each other, I would say the engines would win. Just sayin.

Note: these are 4 stroke engines and so intake on half the cylinders each revolution.

[mikeandanne]

++ on blowers, that said. Bob at Beacon once told me and I believe it accurate that with two large V8 engines fresh air passes in and out the burned exhaust at a very large rate. Let's see 350 ci crusader cranks through 175 ci of air each turn of the crank, and at 4000 rpm you get the picture and that times two for twins. Blowers are definitely needed at startup especially cold or refueling startup, but underway at speed does not seem to me to help much. In fact might be the opposite, engine sucking large quantities of area in and blower pushing air the other way may be fighting each other, I would say the engines would win. Just sayin.

Note: these are 4 stroke engines and so intake on half the cylinders each revolution.

I agree Larry.......a 360cubic inch at 1000 rpm inhales about 83cfm of air, at 1600 rpm its about 133cfm, so every minute two engines at 1600 are changing 266cfm in the engine compartment. Now that being said ,as I see it, the benefit of running the blower would be to move the air from the very bottom of the bilge where the heavier fumes would be if your hoses are set right........yep just some more ramblings...Mike

[mikeandanne]

Ok. I will check each thing. I will open the hatches on the way in too.
It is a Holley 4B carb, is this something that can be repaired somewhat easily?

What size holley is that?????.....why I ask is that we used to have float problems with some of the older style Holleys , constant float adjustments due to vibration issues, not sure what you have there, there is a fix....Mike

[Nicksdad]

Ok. To end the blower issue. I have them. My mistake, it was a rough week. I ran the boat this weekend with the hatch open over the STBD engine
while on the full return trip to the dock. The boat made it further than normal, but stalled right at the end of my lagoon. Made it about
5 minutes longer then normal. The engine temp was 10 degrees lower than the Port side (which did not stall) 155 vs 165. Then it started right up again. No issue after that.
I purchased insulating wrap for the gas lines but it didn't arrive from Amazon yet, so I'm going to install on Friday. What size do you want to know on the carb? I believe the neck
is 5.25"

[oldboat1]

just a thought: had a frustrating stalling issue with my '80 F26 (single 305), and it was an electrical issue. Mine has a reset button in the wiring compartment under the steering wheel, with the reset button in a separate enclosed fuse panel. I opened the cover to the panel and cleaned or replaced fuses -- found a lot of corrosion. Have not had a problem since, knock on teak.

Your symptoms don't sound entirely the same, as you are able to restart (i.e., my starting switch was dead until I did the reset). But you could still have an electrical gremlin, and it wouldn't hurt to clean electrical connections. BTW, the absence of a working blower or blowers may also be electrical -- got to believe there are blowers installed.

[bssmnbll]

I just found this post about engines dying after a run. I have a 76 F32 with 360 Chryslers, have owned the boat for 21 years, and have had this problem from time to time. This year it is the port side. When the starboard engine did this a few years ago, I changed(after a lot of other things)the duel ballast resistor, and that cured it. This year, I did the same with the port, but still have the problem, so I am going to change the coil, which I think is original. To me it makes sense that when running on plane, the coil, because of age,etc, may get hot and break down, and not provide proper current when at idle. That is the case with the ballast resistors, but you can usually see cracks in the material they are made of. I am sure there is a way to load a coil and check it too, or if I had time, I could switch coils on the engines and see if the problem follows, but for $12 I will put the old coil to rest. Time will tell.

[Reel Easy]

I had the same issue. I could be out all day and upon returning the port engine would die in the channel. The PO all ready replaced all the ignition parts. So it seemed fuel related. It was. I took the carb off to clean and rebuild. The floats were way off of spec. Problem solved. You have a holley they are easy to set the floats.