All most new F32 owner

[Susiesboat]

I am in the process of purchasing a 1984 Trojan F32 (survey dependent). What is the beam of that boat? Also, I will be transporting the boat via a boat hauler. Is it your experience that the flybridge will have to be removed and, if so, about how many man hours is involved with removing? And re-installing now that I think of it.
Many thanks,
Susiesboat.

[Reel Easy]

Welcome aboard.

[Reel Easy]

Your beam should be 13ft.

[Stripermann2]

The beam is 13'. The flybridge surround, ladder and console will need to be removed in most cases.
I have done mine. The two of us did the removal in 2 days. You will need to label all harnesses, wiring from fuse panel and cables.

Yours might be doable in one day with the right help. Search F32 transport or similar here. Much on the topic. Good luck and welcome.

[LandVF36]

I'm pretty certain an F32 has a 13' beam, draft of 2'6" and a bridge clearance of 12'6" (add those last two together for the guy hauling so 15'). Unless its a very short distance where you can avoid all bridges and over-head lines, the flybridge has to come off. Its a good day work for two people disconnecting steering (clamp it down), validate labels on the wires leaving the terminal blocks and remove them from the in-side of the flybridge and secure them down to the floor as well). The bridge is heavy. If a yard has a crane/hoist, thats the best way to go. After you remove the screws to the floor, slip a box made of 4 x 4s under it and hoist it forward to the bow where it can ride in transport. Most of all, you MUST re-bed the screws when you re-attach with a good sealant so you don't end up with water in your fly-bridge floor in the years the follow.

[P-Dogg]

you MUST re-bed the screws when you re-attach with a good sealant

This is a must, but I would also drill over-size holes and fill them with epoxy, then drill for your hardware, so that water can't leak through failed sealant into the core.

See: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/be ... rdware.asp, except ignore the advice to come back and turn the nuts (if applicable) after the sealant cures. The theory is to further squeeze the sealant, but in practice, if the fastener turns and it breaks the seal, the installation is worthless.


Attend the survey. Ask questions. Good luck. And welcome!

[ready123]

I use Butyl-l tape to bed... it never hardens so it maintains a seal even when there is slight movement in the hold down area...... not so when you use a compound that sets up!!
See here:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

I guess our bridges must be higher in Ontario:
All I remove is the wind deflector, ladder, steering wheel, shifters and have her put on a lowboy trailer so the keel is about 9/12" off the road. NOTE the bow is lowered which reduces overall height.