Refinish Teak Bow Pulpit

[kboette1]

I'm starting a refinishing project shortly. I pulled the bow pulpit off of my 1988 F36. The wood is still in good shape, but is getting weathered. I bought some teak to make plugs for where the old windlass was and also where I moved some hardware for my new anchor. I plan on using gorilla glue to secure the plugs before finishing the wood. I also just bought a new Profish 1000 windlass to install on it when I am done. I was looking for some thoughts on how to create a long lasting solution. I plan on using a very thin penetrating epoxy for the first coat to get protection deep and permanently sealing the wood. Second I was going to use multiple coats of Cetol. Any advice?

[AwayOnBusine$$]

Your Teak is badly discolored, ie. weather worn. Had a similar problem. Took the piece to a refinishing place and had them power plane a 1/64 of the underside and a 1/32 of the top side, followed by complete sanding with 100, 150 and 200 grip paper. you could cote with epoxy. I did not, just 5 coats of Cetol and 1 coat each year there after with a light rub of a sanding foam based block (3M stile)

P.S. I use epoxy for plugs. Don't forget to align the grain, you would be amazed at how many restorations I have seen where this has been overlooked.

[kboette1]

What type of epoxy did you use for the plugs? I was going to use Jamestown TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy for the coating. Thanks for the grain alignment tip. There are some large plugs on the side covering the threaded rods that help clamp the pieces together. Right now there is some material that almost feels like chalk. What would you use to fill these holes?

[captainmaniac]

There is enough thickness of wood there that you could get away with the planing that Away suggests. An alternative is a 2 part teak cleaner (acid first that really pulls the gunk out of the wood, then a base to neutralize the acid and bleach things) followed by sanding once things are dry with 120-200 grit just to get rid of any raised grain.

I wouldn't epoxy before using Cetol - I think that may even mess up the Cetol job as it won't be able to penetrate into the wood. That's what makes Cetol work so well - first coat mostly penetrates, second coat penetrates to a degree and starts to sit on top in some spots, third coat usually evens things out, and any coat beyond that is building up depth. If it can't penetrate, your finish will be as good as how well Cetol can adhere to the (slippery) epoxy, and you could find yourself trying to refinish an epoxied piece of Teak - much worse for the sanding or planing requirements.

For filling the 'big' holes, I wouldn't try to fill them necessarily. Remember - the problem isn't water... it's trapped water.

If you try to fill them and moisture does get in behind your plug somehow, it will be trapped and rot things from the inside out. That's the worst kind of rot - you don't see it until the structure fails. I would be more inclined to leave the void, but apply either several doses of Cetol or (if you think you need it) an epoxy (West System is usually my go-to) to seal the wood in those areas. With Cetol or epoxy penetrated into the wood, and it not being exposed directly to the elements, it should stay pretty waterproof for years or decades (a Cetol job I did on my flybridge, which is under cover when I am not at the boat, has lasted without maintenance for about 13 years so far). With the void itself being left open (and not plugged), any water that does get in will be able to either run away or evaporate naturally over a short period of time.

For finishes to expect, here are some examples from my 'wood finishes gallery'. I have posted this a few times in different threads. The pictures are a few years old now (maybe 4-6 depending on shot?) but other than a light sanding and recoat of Cetol Gloss (x2) on the pulpit about 3 years ago, I have not had to do any maintenance.

See these posts:
Wood Finish examples (part 1)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... f=1&t=3206

Wood Finish examples (part 2)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... =1&t=12738

[AwayOnBusine$$]

Take out the chalk material. I used west systems epoxy. I really don't think it matters what you use to secure the plugs as much as it matters to secure the base and a little of the lower portion. Make sure the size or depth of the plug will sit proud of the depth of the location. Tap it in gently to secure, then sand flush. Do not seal pulpit as indicated above with epoxy. Use cetol for all coats. Yes you can thin first coat to allow it to penetrate. My swim platform and bow pulpit have both been done this way. Once a year I give a gentle rub with a 3M fine sanding sponge, followed by a new coat. Takes an hour and looks great for the whole season.

[kboette1]

Thanks for the advice Captainmaniac and Away. Captainmaniac, The project looks awesome. I will skip the epoxy and just thin the first coat. I started sanding tonight and have come to the conclusion that it is a good thing winters are long in NH because this is not going to be quick... I'll keep you posted om progress.

[larryeddington]

I just got the old belt sander with 80 grit after mine and it looks like fresh new wood. Have not put the finish on it yet. The cabinet man did not want to plane it unless I gave him $300 for a new knife set if he hit something, twas the sander for me.

[K4282]

I just got the old belt sander with 80 grit after mine and it looks like fresh new wood. Have not put the finish on it yet.

me too, random orbital sander, 80 grit, I clean with a acid cleaner and apply 4 plus coats of cetol

[kboette1]

Wow this Teak sands like cement! Almost done with side 1. Question about the first coat of Cetol. Did you thin it down a lot so it would penetrate? If so what did you use to thin it and how much?

[mikeandanne]

Wow this Teak sands like cement! Almost done with side 1. Question about the first coat of Cetol. Did you thin it down a lot so it would penetrate? If so what did you use to thin it and how much?

After sanding clean up the surface , then immediately before you are going to put the first coat, clean the surfaces real good with acetone....it will draw the oil from the surface of the teak and give that first coat a bite.....I have always done it this way for cetol and spar varnish....no thinning just the acetone wash....

[AwayOnBusine$$]

I did not thin mine down, sanded 80 / 120 /150 grit.

[captainmaniac]

I also don't thin the first coat. The teak just soaks it up.

[kboette1]

One more question (of probably many) the underside was not finished where the unit was glued to the boat with 5200. It was also not finished where the teak was not accessible to add a maintenance coat of cetol. Should I leave the underside which is inaccessible without cetol?It is sanding down quite nicely by the way. Progress is going well.

[AwayOnBusine$$]

Those are thru bolt holes where your red arrows are pointing. Are there matching holes on the boat deck and gunnels. I have this same setup on my 76 F32. These bolts pass threw the deck and are secured from underneath with 4" by 3/4" square block each against the fiberglass, a lock washer and two bolts.

Yes I would finish the under side as the top.

[captainmaniac]

I would Cetol it, to help seal and protect the wood.