10 Meter Inverter Location - Install Complete!

[zedtwentyate]

The inverter install is done. I know I'll probably get ripped for not using a known brand, but AIMS customer service was amazing. I didnt really know what size i needed and settled on the 2k watt. If the thing craps out, I'll use it as an anchor and invest in a Magna or some other well known brand. So far it works awesome. It ran my shop vac, coffee maker, microwave, TV and a plethora of other things today while I tested it. I set this up to interrupt the shore power and basically power my full A/C panel (the left side, No. 1). I don't have A/C or a genset, so this thing is perfect.

I still have to find a way to charge the two 8Ds from the alternator. My understanding is your can use a battery isolator to split the output off one of the alternators and charge the batteries that way. I'm trying to understand how the existing battery charger and system is set up...need to do some more research. Specifically, where the heck the factory D/C house bank is connected...

[zedtwentyate]

Also still need to seal those holes in the bulkhead...don't mind the dirt.

[Big D]

Good to see you completed the project. A couple of things I feel the need to point out. I do this not to criticize but to point out a couple of areas that can be improved upon to avoid issues later. I've seen too many things go wrong due to improper installations:

- I would reconsider using that type of strap. You have a metal ratchet that is floating a couple of inches away from battery terminals. If anything loosens off over time for any reason and they come into contact with the terminals, you will have a fire on board. Use a strap with plastic hardware such as those designed for this purpose.
- The battery terminals must have covers on them.
- From what I can see in the pictures, the battery terminal nuts do not have a mechanical locking device such as lock washers, spurred nuts or nylock nuts. Temperatures at the terminals will constantly change with use. This will cause expansion and contraction. That and vibration may cause the fasteners to loosen off. This is something you don't want when dealing with that kind of amperage. If using nylock nuts, ensure they are of a good heat spec so the plastic doesn't soften if the posts heat up from high loads. Not all nylocks are created equal.
- While they are commonly used, Class T fuses technically do not have an ignition proof rating! For this reason, I do not use them in gasoline engine compartments. I use ANL fuses by Blue Sea because they are rated ignition proof. I have never heard of an explosion as a result of a Class T trip but if anything ever happens and the insurance company sticks to their guns, they may not honor a claim if a smart adjuster is assigned to assess the case and points out that a non ignition proof device was installed.
-When going through bulkheads, wiring should always be protected from chafing. I usually cut the holes large enough to accept the wiring and a section of water hose around the wire.
- Finally, I trust this is the case but I can't tell from the picture; you want to ensure 110 volt wiring is stranded and not solid household stuff.

PS; the blue line on the left side up against the negative cable, is that a fuel line?

[zedtwentyate]

Good to see you completed the project. A couple of things I feel the need to point out. I do this not to criticize but to point out a couple of areas that can be improved upon to avoid issues later. I've seen too many things go wrong due to improper installations:

- I would reconsider using that type of strap. You have a metal ratchet that is floating a couple of inches away from battery terminals. If anything loosens off over time for any reason and they come into contact with the terminals, you will have a fire on board. Use a strap with plastic hardware such as those designed for this purpose.
- The battery terminals must have covers on them.
- From what I can see in the pictures, the battery terminal nuts do not have a mechanical locking device such as lock washers, spurred nuts or nylock nuts. Temperatures at the terminals will constantly change with use. This will cause expansion and contraction. That and vibration may cause the fasteners to loosen off. This is something you don't want when dealing with that kind of amperage. If using nylock nuts, ensure they are of a good heat spec so the plastic doesn't soften if the posts heat up from high loads. Not all nylocks are created equal.
- While they are commonly used, Class T fuses technically do not have an ignition proof rating! For this reason, I do not use them in gasoline engine compartments. I use ANL fuses by Blue Sea because they are rated ignition proof. I have never heard of an explosion as a result of a Class T trip but if anything ever happens and the insurance company sticks to their guns, they may not honor a claim if a smart adjuster is assigned to assess the case and points out that a non ignition proof device was installed.
-When going through bulkheads, wiring should always be protected from chafing. I usually cut the holes large enough to accept the wiring and a section of water hose around the wire.
- Finally, I trust this is the case but I can't tell from the picture; you want to ensure 110 volt wiring is stranded and not solid household stuff.

PS; the blue line on the left side up against the negative cable, is that a fuel line?

Thanks Big D

1. Good call on the strap. I had limited space and needed to get creative. I will swap that out.
2. I have covers that I will be installing today.
3. Another great call out. I'll address that.
4. Everything i read said only to use class T fuses. I think that is a blue seas fuse, but I can change that as well. Makes sense to not want a fuse that isnt ignition protected.
5. There is a lot of room in there. I had planned on using some split wire loom and silicone to seal it and protect it.
6. The 110 line is boat cable from defender...stranded 10/3

That is a fuel line, but it isnt actually touching the negative cable. do you think i should try to move it even further away?

[Big D]

I would move the fuel line a bit for the little work it'll take to do. Always gotta ask yourself, "What would happen if...?" Better safe than sorry.

I can't tell by the picture but it looks like there is nothing preventing the batteries from moving fore and aft. There should be no room for movement port and starb, or fore and aft. Screw down a wood batten or something against the batteries so they stay in place.

[zedtwentyate]

I would move the fuel line a bit for the little work it'll take to do. Always gotta ask yourself, "What would happen if...?" Better safe than sorry.

I can't tell by the picture but it looks like there is nothing preventing the batteries from moving fore and aft. There should be no room for movement port and starb, or fore and aft. Screw down a wood batten or something against the batteries so they stay in place.

Paints drying on the wood as I type...i swear i thought of that...

Would you hook your whole DC panel to these two 8ds? I'm debating that now. I think I want to.

Also, Big D, can you school me on whether or not the alternator on my 454 crusader has enough juice to charge these?

[Big D]

Ya you can hook up to the main panel but just be mindfull of the inverter's max output. Power usage management is key. If you do that, and the unit is auto switching when shore power is disconnected, you MUST put a safety warning label at the panel WARNING that the system has an inverter hooked up to it and that when servicing/working on AC circuits, simply unhooking the power cord at the dock isn't enough. Most marine units with auto switching come with this label. This is a safety reminder for yourself and anybody that works on your boat and may not be aware that an inverter has been hooked up to the panel. This will also warn a future owner.

You should be fine with your current alternator though a higher output one would obviously charge faster. That presents a couple of other challenges/considerations though. Whether it's worth it really depends on your boating habits and power usage.

[zedtwentyate]

I was actually referring to the DC panel...factory house looks like it splits helm power and the rest of the DC items between the two starting batteries. I was going to pull both of those connections off the current circuit breakers in the battery compartment and run them to my two 8ds.

I have the whole no 1 AC panel hooked up to the inverter with a label. Without A/C, the only thing that would push me over in wattage would be if I ran the water heater with anything else. The water heater draws close to 1500 watts.

We're going to be on the boat for about a week with some time spent on the dock but most of it in the canal system...that's why I want to be able to recharge from the engines. It's super light use, so I think she will take a while to drain out. We're just watching TV, charging things and having the occasional cup of coffee.

[BobCT]

I investigated the alternators too and they do little to no charging at idle. They do sell higher amperage alternators for this purpose (trying to remember who as I type this). It's not a straight swap though because the wiring would need to be upgraded as well as the pulleys (2 belt system in some cases). I still think it would take a lot of engine running time or ideally travel to handle a full recharge.

How many amp hours are the 8 d's?

Bob

[zedtwentyate]

I investigated the alternators too and they do little to no charging at idle. They do sell higher amperage alternators for this purpose (trying to remember who as I type this). It's not a straight swap though because the wiring would need to be upgraded as well as the pulleys (2 belt system in some cases). I still think it would take a lot of engine running time or ideally travel to handle a full recharge.

How many amp hours are the 8 d's?

Bob

They are like 225 AH each...

[prowlersfish]

Charging a large battery can put strain on the alternator and that in turn puts a load on the belt . once they start slipping they don't last long . So make sure they are adjusted and carry a few spares

[g36]

one thing to consider before running the entire ac panel through this is to know what the transfer switch is rated for in amps. do you know what the internal transfer switch is rated for? is this mentioned in the manual? i agree that it will operate most everything but water heater in inverter mode but in shore power mode going through the transfer switch you may well be above its rating. i.e. water heater, hair drier

[zedtwentyate]

one thing to consider before running the entire ac panel through this is to know what the transfer switch is rated for in amps. do you know what the internal transfer switch is rated for? is this mentioned in the manual? i agree that it will operate most everything but water heater in inverter mode but in shore power mode going through the transfer switch you may well be above its rating. i.e. water heater, hair drier

The transfer switch is rated at 30 Amps.

[zedtwentyate]

Good to see you completed the project. A couple of things I feel the need to point out. I do this not to criticize but to point out a couple of areas that can be improved upon to avoid issues later. I've seen too many things go wrong due to improper installations:

- I would reconsider using that type of strap. You have a metal ratchet that is floating a couple of inches away from battery terminals. If anything loosens off over time for any reason and they come into contact with the terminals, you will have a fire on board. Use a strap with plastic hardware such as those designed for this purpose.
- The battery terminals must have covers on them.
- From what I can see in the pictures, the battery terminal nuts do not have a mechanical locking device such as lock washers, spurred nuts or nylock nuts. Temperatures at the terminals will constantly change with use. This will cause expansion and contraction. That and vibration may cause the fasteners to loosen off. This is something you don't want when dealing with that kind of amperage. If using nylock nuts, ensure they are of a good heat spec so the plastic doesn't soften if the posts heat up from high loads. Not all nylocks are created equal.
- While they are commonly used, Class T fuses technically do not have an ignition proof rating! For this reason, I do not use them in gasoline engine compartments. I use ANL fuses by Blue Sea because they are rated ignition proof. I have never heard of an explosion as a result of a Class T trip but if anything ever happens and the insurance company sticks to their guns, they may not honor a claim if a smart adjuster is assigned to assess the case and points out that a non ignition proof device was installed.
-When going through bulkheads, wiring should always be protected from chafing. I usually cut the holes large enough to accept the wiring and a section of water hose around the wire.
- Finally, I trust this is the case but I can't tell from the picture; you want to ensure 110 volt wiring is stranded and not solid household stuff.

PS; the blue line on the left side up against the negative cable, is that a fuel line?

Big D - You'll be happy to know that my 8D's are secured very nicely now!




Also, this AIMS Power off brand inverter is still running like a champ. I used it all last season and this years it's doing its job great. I know there aren't many reviews out there so I just figured I would share. If you're in the market for a budget inverter, this thing is great!

[BobCT]

Because I know you're bored, ask me about making up new fuel lines when you get to that point. Those are probably original and long overdue (they're date coded). I changed the configuration on mine so they're more out of the way. I got tired of constantly getting my feet tangled up in them in that spot.

Like the oil cooler lines, you can re-use the fittings, just need new aeroquip hose. That battery box looks awesome, kind of wish I did that instead. I was able to squeeze two 6v batts inside the factory box and added two add'l in standalone boxes in the same spot you did.


Bob