10 Meter Inverter Location - Install Complete!

[zedtwentyate]

Hello Friends!

The upgrade saga continues. The next project is a 2000 watt pure sine inverter. I am trying to figure out the best location for the inverter and the two 8d batteries that I have. I understand installing an inverter in the engine room of a gas powered boat is a no no. Where would you put it? It's fairly large and weighs about 50 lbs.

Secondarily, I was going to put my 8d's on the plywood platform where my genset would be, if I had one. The only concern I have with this is the the length of the run. It would be about 9-10 feet into my aft as far as I can tell. MY buddy is helping me with the install and we will be using 2/0 cable. Any better location? We're talking about 300lbs of batteries and it would be awesome if they could offset my list to the starboard side , I just don't see another spot they could go...

Thanks in advance!

[Big D]

If it's an ignition protected marine inverter then it can go in the engine compartment. Buying anything other than that can actually turn out to be more expensive than a marine unit because it typically needs to be mounted further away from the DC source. The result is having to use more cable in most cases which is pretty costly and could eat up all the savings from having purchased a cheaper non-marine unit. If this isn't a marine unit, it may not have the proper instructions for a marine installation which is slightly different than residential so you want to be careful there and do your homework first.

Would mounting the unit in a side cupboard or cabinet in the cockpit be a shorter run? Has to be a dry location that is ventilated. Make sure the 2/0 cable is the proper size for the run you end up with. These things can be dangerous if not hooked up properly.

[BobCT]

I mounted mine in the mid cabin, under the center berth. I bolted onto the framing side of the seat/bed rather than the bulkhead. That eliminated any core/sealing issues plus the battery charger would be in the way on the other side. I added four 6v Trojan T125 batts which are dedicated to the inverter. I also added a switch on my main panel so I can toggle my microwave between shore and inverter and added a dedicated inverter outlet in the galley right next to the factory 110v.

I use the outlet for coffee maker, hair dryer, toaster oven, etc. With the four 6v batts it runs forever and have never run out of power (i.e., 50%). I added two of the batts in the factory battery box with some reconfiguring (start batts are still there too) and the add'l two are behind on a platform in the bilge. You're right about the length of the wire run, I oversized the recommended wire size by 2x if I recall. I have all of those details/pics I can send.

Bob

[BobCT]

Forgot I did this a few years ago.

http://youtu.be/vnFeTdvarnE

[zedtwentyate]

The inverter is marine rater but I'll have to check to see if it's ignition protected.

As far as location, I saw Bob's video and it looks great. I'm concerned about that area of the aft because while under way, and water in the forward bilge is going to slosh around back there. The unit is rather large, so that space may not work for me. I was thinking about the starboard storage closet in the aft cabin. The only issue there is wire length. The MFG recommends 1/0 for runs up to 6'. So using 2/0 for a longer run should be good.

[prowlersfish]

If it's an ignition protected marine inverter then it can go in the engine compartment. Buying anything other than that can actually turn out to be more expensive than a marine unit because it typically needs to be mounted further away from the DC source. The result is having to use more cable in most cases which is pretty costly and could eat up all the savings from having purchased a cheaper non-marine unit. If this isn't a marine unit, it may not have the proper instructions for a marine installation which is slightly different than residential so you want to be careful there and do your homework first.

Would mounting the unit in a side cupboard or cabinet in the cockpit be a shorter run? Has to be a dry location that is ventilated. Make sure the 2/0 cable is the proper size for the run you end up with. These things can be dangerous if not hooked up properly.

This X 2

[BobCT]

How is water getting into your forward bilge? I don't get a drop in mine (literally) so that location has not been issue for me. The AC drains into that bilge but I have it drain into a Tupperware container and then empty that as needed. Other than that it's bone dry.

Bob

[zedtwentyate]

How is water getting into your forward bilge? I don't get a drop in mine (literally) so that location has not been issue for me. The AC drains into that bilge but I have it drain into a Tupperware container and then empty that as needed. Other than that it's bone dry.

Bob

Good question Bob. I have no idea. I just cleaned it all out tonight with my shop vac. I was having issues with my fresh water tank and pump due to some garbage connections that the previous owner and marina made.

If it's not that, what else could it be? I have a small leak where the trim tab mounts but the forward and rear bilge are sealed off at the bulkhead right?

Now you've got me thinking.

[BobCT]

Couple of thoughts:

1) I eliminated the macerater and seacock on my boat. The seacock could be a source if it's weeping (making the leap you have factory setup).

2) there's a factory drain plug in this bilge if you look very camrefully under the shelf that holds the fresh water pump. Mine was unbonded and fell apart in my hand. I would highly suggest checking that and eliminating it at some point all together. It's xompletely useless because water never sits in that area when the boat is blocked. It would have to be pointed bow down.

3) i did have a slow leak at the water tank connection. i replaced the hose and clamp going to the fresh water pump and it's been dry since. This is really hard to do but is possible by hanging your head inside the bilge and a long reach.

I would check those three things first. I would also vac it dry and check it over a period of dry and/or rainy days to see if it's coming from the outside. Correct, any leak in the engine room would not get the cabin bilge wet.

Bob

[zedtwentyate]

Couple of thoughts:

1) I eliminated the macerater and seacock on my boat. The seacock could be a source if it's weeping (making the leap you have factory setup).

2) there's a factory drain plug in this bilge if you look very camrefully under the shelf that holds the fresh water pump. Mine was unbonded and fell apart in my hand. I would highly suggest checking that and eliminating it at some point all together. It's xompletely useless because water never sits in that area when the boat is blocked. It would have to be pointed bow down.

3) i did have a slow leak at the water tank connection. i replaced the hose and clamp going to the fresh water pump and it's been dry since. This is really hard to do but is possible by hanging your head inside the bilge and a long reach.

I would check those three things first. I would also vac it dry and check it over a period of dry and/or rainy days to see if it's coming from the outside. Correct, any leak in the engine room would not get the cabin bilge wet.

Bob

1) I am fairly certain I do not have a macerator as I havent seen a switch for it. Where was that on your boat?

2) I saw the drain plug and it is bonded. When i vacuumed the bilge, I watched it for for about 20 mins and it didnt appear to weep at all.

3) Literally every hose in there has been replaced, by me, with pex. Including the line out from the fresh water tank. I'll have to look at the lines running in the outside of the bilge area to see if there is a leak somewhere else...maybe hot water tank area. The factory line for the windshield washer has been sealed off...time to go exploring. I may stop out there today to see if any water has creeped in.

Thanks Bob.

[BobCT]

My macerator and seacock was located in the cabin bilge in front of the head. I removed that seacock, the drain plug, the unused generator seacock and two old transducers. Sounds like you have the obvious stuff covered so far.

[zedtwentyate]

My macerator and seacock was located in the cabin bilge in front of the head. I removed that seacock, the drain plug, the unused generator seacock and two old transducers. Sounds like you have the obvious stuff covered so far.

I don't think my boat is equipped with a macerator. Was your right in the center compartment? I have two pumps down there, the shower drain pump and the fresh water tank pump...

I'm going to put dome food coloring in the fresh water tank and see if i can track down if there is a leak in it...

[RWS]

on my 1983 express (not mid-cabin) the switch is on the panel - 12v volt side

RWS

[BobCT]

You couldn't miss it if you had it. The seacock was on the port side of the hull less than a 1' from the keel. I just have shower and FW pump down there too.

My macerator switch was also on the panel. I repurposed that feed and run a 12v computer fan (24x7) which is vented outside the cabin using 3" flex hose and a vent next to the port side helm seat. That keeps a constant airflow which is good for obvious reasons.

[zedtwentyate]

Just had all of my cabling made by a buddy of mine who works at a local marina. All 2/0 marine rated wire that's soldered a crimped. Getting closer to install time!

24' in total....no don't worry, I'm not putting my inverter 24' from the battery bank!