New member - 1978 F32

[WayWeGo]

Keep an eye out for the Simrad NSS series of MFD's (that's the pre-EVO models). They were strong MFD's that did a great job with chart plotting and good bottom contoring with the 80/200Mhz transducer. They have a weak resale market due to upgrades and you can usually get one for a steal. They will also handle the Go Free Wifi module which will allow you to have an iPad or Android tablet at lower helm to avoid the costs of a separate system. They use the Navionics charts and interface with the Navionics app on the iPhone and iPad.

About a year ago, there were some great deals bundling one of the first generation NSS displays with radar. I picked up a B&G Touch T12 (basically a NSS 12 with some sailing features added) along with a 4G radar for $2,100. With the radar selling for $2K, the MFD was almost free. The downside is that Navico is no longer supplying software updates to the first generation devices. We also have a 7" NSS evo2 on the flybridge and a bunch more Navico electronics that are getting installed this spring. So far, I am impressed with most of them. Their support is pretty good, though I have sometimes had to help them out with detailed info...

Now that the Evo 3's have been announced, there might be some deals on the Evo 2's coming up.

[prowlersfish]

Next step is to find out what the hell is going on with the toggle switch system as it isn't wired to primary power in a way that makes sense.

What issue and questions are you having ? And with what exact switches ?

None of the toggle switches that are mounted above the lower console have any power. The switch lights are on constantly, but nothing else is getting 12V. The distribution fuse panel should be sourced from the battery bank but doesn't appear to be. Same thing with the trim tabs and engine compartment blowers. It should be a matter of chasing wires, which I am going to start with in earnest today. I think that during a previous overall all of the house systems were wired to the output of the shore-powered battery charger. That's convenient but to my mind at least unwise. I'm not ABYC certified but have a long background in electronics - maybe I'm wrong?

Keep an eye out for the Simrad NSS series of MFD's (that's the pre-EVO models).

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll start a search for those. Also WILCO on the battery terminal covers - they're in the box of many parts up on the deck.

Look below the helm for breakers and 2 switch's maybe in a different place on the F32 but they are there on my F36 w/the same helm

[mikeandanne]

In regards to your lower station....below it should be a panel with the 110 breakers and a separate split 12vdc fuse panel if still original....now in the sliding compartment to the right on the starboard side there should be or was distribution panels for all the boat wiring, everything was joined there from the engine room to the bridge etc etc, it was all there on the 78 I had....some issues there with bad connections but fairly obvious ....hope you have the wiring diagrams.Good luck man.

[GrumpyDuck]

Good news - the problem with the switch panel is fixed. Turned out to be a simple ground wire. I'll post photos later but it was on the distribution panel to starboard of the lower helm. More good news is I have the original manual which includes the wiring diagrams.

For once that puts me ahead of planned schedule. How I can start figuring out why the starboard blower and masthead light don't work. Then it's fun stuff like installing new bilge pumps and putting in some new light fixtures.

[captainmaniac]

This might help with the wiring ...
http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... ram#p91189

[Barrie]

That is good news.
I would rather do anything other than sort out electrical bugs.

[GrumpyDuck]

This might help with the wiring ...
http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... ram#p91189

Thanks Capt - I found that via googling about the same time you posted it, and checked it against the manual that was on the boat when we purchased it. Everything checks out. I need to do something to preserve these diagrams just for the nostalgia value alone.

Todays tasks are replumb/rewire the aft and forward bilge pumps, chase the masthead light wiring, and put fusing inline on the wires to the starters. Fingers crossed I have hose in the proper diameter, thus saving a trip to West "GIVEUSALLYOURMONEY" Marine or the hardware store.

This was the culprit on the wiring issues:



All fixed up:



I have no idea why this wiring was run from the panel to the old battery charger. Clearly aftermarket and I can only guess it was to avoid crawling around in the engine compartment.



Speaking of battery chargers here's a photo of the BlueSeas P12 25A charger. As an electronics nerd - well let's just say I'm very excited to have one of these.



Bonus photo of more vintage gear pulled off the flying bridge last night. I'm going to put all of this stuff on display once the refit is done.

[GrumpyDuck]

This is turning in to a little bit of a rebuilt/refit log. Might as well write it all down somewhere.

First order of business after getting the wiring to a point I can live with it is to fix the bilge pump situation.

Problem number one is this little box in the aft bilge. If you have one of these I strongly suggest you get rid of it, they're junk.



Wouldn't you know it, the port thru-hull fell apart while I was taking the hose off. Not the end of the world since that tiny thing needed to go anyway. All of the thru-hulls above the water are plastic, and they all need to be replaced. I didn't really apply much force to this one for it to break.



Had to expand the opening for the port thru-hull to 1 1/8" and drill one on the starboard side of the transom. Probably not best practice to do this while she's in the water but my options were limited. Liberal application of epoxy to seal everything up and some mariners miracle glue aka 5200 took care of everything.

Previously the Rule 800 was the only functioning pump. The 1500 pump forward was wired but didn't have any voltage - a problem which has been fixed. I installed a Rule 1500 and 2000 GPH pump aft, each on their own float switch. The 2000 has its float switch up a little higher on that platform since we don't want it running all the time unless we NEED it to.



The port cockpit drain hose was completely shot. Since I was down there anyway it was time to replace it. I'm about three feet too tall to be spending any amount of time hunched over to get to this stuff.



My faithful helper hard at ... work. There are no ducks to retrieve so she's not interested unless there's chance of food or belly rubs.



We're certainly not retaining the classic look of the lower helm but these switches make me a lot more comfortable. I'm going to reach out to someone I know to see if he can laser engrave some plates for me to replace the printed labels.



I did some other small stuff while I was there. As I said to someone else fixing a boat up is a continual reminder to be humble - as soon as you get one problem figured out she throws you a curve ball. Fixing that wiring short had me feeling good so the next morning there were lots of pesky issues to chase besides the big stuff like the bilge pumps.

Has anyone ever installed a fiberglass hard-top to replace their bimini? I keep thinking about the horrible location for the masthead light and how I would really, really like to get that thing out of line of sight. Also it would be nice to be able to mount antennas and a radome up there.

I ordered a refurbished Simrad NSS7 Evo2 today, so that plus the fixed mount VHF upgrade will probably be the next orders of business. Time for DSC and true digital channel selection, not to mention the correct spacing.

[oil&water]

It is amazing just how much a PO who is well intentioned, yet non-boat systems smart can cause so many future headaches. Looks like you are making things right, which will enable you to enjoy the boat for many years, with less repeat problems the longer you own her.

Nice score on the NSS Evo 2. Between that and the VHF upgrades, you will be a very happy boater.

I'm thinking about using the plastic through hulls above the waterline that are stainless capped. What have you decided to use?

[GrumpyDuck]

It is amazing just how much a PO who is well intentioned, yet non-boat systems smart can cause so many future headaches. Looks like you are making things right, which will enable you to enjoy the boat for many years, with less repeat problems the longer you own her.

Nice score on the NSS Evo 2. Between that and the VHF upgrades, you will be a very happy boater.

I'm thinking about using the plastic through hulls above the waterline that are stainless capped. What have you decided to use?

Groco stainless thru-hull fittings that were purchased for another project that doesn't need them yet. I looked at stainless capped plastic fittings but decided not to go that route. My concern there is pitting and corrosion leading to eventual failure.

Boat maintenance is tricky and expensive. Most owners just want to use their boat for its intended purpose and don't always have a technical background. So I totally understand the why of "get it running" shortcuts even if it can be frustrating to come behind and sort out.

Another question for those with experience - what's your approach to cleaning out a bilge? Between random junk and an oil leak during the last haul-out it's bad down there. Really bad. My shop vac isn't getting it done.

[prowlersfish]

]

We're certainly not retaining the classic look of the lower helm but these switches make me a lot more comfortable. I'm going to reach out to someone I know to see if he can laser engrave some plates for me to replace the printed labels.



.

You can get labels here a buck each I believe for stock custom is more but they have hundreds (1166) so I bet they have what you need https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/8/Labels

[oil&water]

Best way I have found to clean the bilge is straight Purple Power sitting and then hitting it with high pressure spray or small stiff brush, like a concrete finish brush. For the really tough areas, Marine Spray Nine is a miracle product.

[GrumpyDuck]

]
You can get labels here a buck each I believe for stock custom is more but they have hundreds (1166) so I bet they have what you need https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/8/Labels

Sweet! I should have known BlueSea made a product like this.

[captainmaniac]

At rest these boats tend to sit with the bow down a bit, so bilge water normally sits forward. (I am talking attitude of the keel / bilge, don't confuse that with deck line as the deck at the bow will be up...)

Your aft pump should only see water if you have a LOT aboard, or while running at speeds that will lift the bow (as long as your limber holes are clear, any bilge water should run aft). If the float switch for the 2nd pump you have mounted higher ever kicks in -- you have a big problem!

[P-Dogg]

And on that note.....

My tricabin has 3 pumps- forward, mid, aft. Same front-bilge-low issue on my boat. At rest, front pump would come on first, underway, anything would move aft. If my midships pump ever turns on I already have a problem.

My helm has idiot lights that indicate the pumps are pumping. I turned the middle pump switch light into a high water alarm by paralleling a piezoelectric buzzer and flashing light in the pump circuit. I've seen people wire in their primary horn, but I think that it's just nuts to add such a high current drain to the power source for your pump. What happens if the alarm goes off when the shore power is off? I should note that the piezoelectric buzzer only draws dozens of mA. If I get clever, I might install a remote dialer, flash the (LED) anchor light, or something else.

Since you already have a "spare" pump aft, you might consider doing good something good like this, and/or relocating the pump as appropriate.