f26 windows

[trojanmanXS]

need to address the cabin windows front and sides. have any of you removed these to clean , repair , reseal? Am working on getting it watertight as best I can before I get to far on inside finish work. the front windows appear to have old rubber edging that surrounds the window, is this still available somewhere ?

thanks ahead of time for any tips on removing these.

[aaronbocknek]

from my research, initially, trojan used 'gray putty tape' between the frames and fiberglass. over the decades, this dries out and becomes brittle and cracks, thus causing leaks. the new butyl tape is much better and does not dry out. this can be found, in various widths at most motor home/rv stores and on line. it's also what some auto glass repair shops use to bed the window to the frame. once your outer frame is removed, clean off the area w/ acetone, then lay the butyl tape on the fiberglass cut out. if your frame is L shaped, i suggest that some of the tape go in the inner edge. when you push the frame back in, the tape will conform to the frame and any slight imperfections. use a plastic putty knife to clear away the excess. if the outer frame has screws on the outside, ball up some of the butyl tape, stuff in the screw holes and when the screws are tightened, wipe off the excess. butyl tape also is great for bedding stanchions and hatches too......

here is a link for various suppliers you might find helpful...

http://www.google.com/#q=butyl+tape&hl= ... 19&bih=799
tri cabin aaron, middle river, md.

[randyp]

There was a posting here a few years ago, so try the search function. I used it to replace the front windows on my F-26 3-4 years ago and they are fine - no leaks, etc. I used black silicone to replace the rubber exterior seals and "tooled" it with an ice cube to make it shiny and conform to the old gasket profile. If you want send me a PM or email me at rfpssp@aol.com and I'll forward you the information from the old posting as well as my experience. I never replaced the side windows but found that the handrails over them on the cabin top are NOT sealed, or if they were, it's gone by now. I backed off the machine screw about 1/4" (not enough to lose the nut--- it you do you'll have to "operate" on the headliner in the cabin to retrieve it) and then squeezed silicone into the space around the hole in the cabin top. Let the silicone "set" for about an hour and then tighten a bit. Wait another couple of hours and tighten down. I also added gutters over the top edge of the side windows and this helps a lot....keeps the windows clean and keeps water from running down the side of the window and onto the felt gasket and into the cabin. I bought the gutter at an online RV site. It comes in lengths and you cut it with a pruning shear. It has a self adhesive strip that makes it easy to install. Did this 3 years ago and they're fine. They also are black and blend in with the black metal trim around the side windows.

[JonChristman]

I pulled my side windows on my F26. I pulled out the plexiglass windows and the screens. The tracks were completely nasty with mold from years of neglect. I used bleack and a wire brush and cleaned them up really nice. I then used some fabric softener and a net wire brush and cleaned them up and let them soak a bit in the fabric softener. I then rinsed them off and let them dry real good. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the frames and the boat and then appliead a bead of marine caulk and used spacers about 1/8 and screwed them in to just barely squeeze the caulk a little. After a couple of hours I removed the spacers and screwed the screws tight. Worked great and no leaks. But I was still getting some streaking on the windows from the oxidized cabin roof so I put some RV gutters over the windows http://rvgutters.com/ezervgutters.aspx and no more white streaks on the windows. In fact in most rains I can leave the side windows open and not get a drop of rain in the windows with the gutters.

[Paul]

I've done both the front cabin windows and the side cabin windows and I can assure you that this job is a pain in the axx. However if done correctly they will be tight and dry for years to come.
On the front windows, the seal between the frames and the boat has never leaked so I left well enough alone. Between the Plexiglass and the frame was another story. The windows were held in place and sealed with what looked like bathroom sillicone and they leaked like the hole in the Titanic. To repair this I cut new pieces of Plexiglass with about an 1/8" of clearance between its edges and the frame. This clearance is important since the plastic will expand and contract a bit with temperature changes. Secondly I knocked out the old windows then cleaned and painted the frames. Thirdly I prepped the Plexiglass by scuffing the inside surface where it will mate with the frame to promote adhesion. Fourth I laid a bead of GE Ultra Glaze SSG4000 structural glazing sealant into the frame then placed in the Plexiglass. Be careful not to squeeze out all of the silicone while pressing it into place. I also used small bricks wrapped in rags to hold it in place while it cured. The next day I removed the bricks, masked the edges with tape and laid a nice bead/fillet to seal it from the outside. (Be sure all surfaces are clean, clean, clean before applying sealer)

The side windows had small leaks between the frames and the boat so I removed the frames and re sealed them. First I pulled out the screens and Plexiglass. To do this, remove the spacer cap between the screen and forward window. Next slide the screen forward, up and out. now do the same for the Plexi pieces. Next came the frames. To get these out, remove all of the screws then run a utility blade between the frame repeatedly until you get down 3/4 to 1 inch. Then using a couple of wide prying tools, gently pry the frame from the boat a bit at a time working your way around the frame. I went around 4 times before they came out. Its important to be careful because they bend easy. Now is the time to clean and paint the frames and repair any stripped screw holes with West System. I re installed the frames using putty tape from a local RV shop to seal them up, then trimmed off the excess that squeezed out.

That's It. I now have 9 years on this job and still no leaks.

Hope this helps,

[trojanmanXS]

thanks for the info , this is just what I was looking for , people who have done it and found the easy methods through trial an error , lol saved me some frustration. I almost have the hull waxed and buffed it took two washings and two wax jobs to bring it back to a shine but was well worth it . the buddys that saw it before and after couldnt believe the difference . they think I'm nuts for even getting this boat but with a lil luck I'll have her looking better then new when done , again thanks for the input and will prolly have another 100 questions before its all over , will post more pics as I progress

[aaronbocknek]

thanks for the info , this is just what I was looking for , people who have done it and found the easy methods through trial an error , lol saved me some frustration. I almost have the hull waxed and buffed it took two washings and two wax jobs to bring it back to a shine but was well worth it . the buddys that saw it before and after couldnt believe the difference . they think I'm nuts for even getting this boat but with a lil luck I'll have her looking better then new when done , again thanks for the input and will prolly have another 100 questions before its all over , will post more pics as I progress

i've had many a boat detailer tell me they LOVE buffing up trojan boats because the gel coat was really good quality, especially for the time frame these boats were built. they really hold their shine once all the crap is taken off and they are brought back to life. you trusted your gut when you looked at her and your boat will probably out last any one your buddies have. once they are brought back to life, with care and love, they will last.

tri cabin aaron