Vacu-flush system replacement??

[RWS]

Maintenance costs for the vacuflush are insignificant.

The soft goods are duckbill valves and the vacuum seal at the bottom of the bowl

Diaphragms on the pump - or replace the pump

I am the second owner of a 1983 International - owned her since 2001

Did a major mechanical refit in 2006 to diesels and while in there decided to PRE-EMPTIVELY replace all the soft goods in the sanitation system while the engines were out.

So heres the STRAIGHT POOP !

the 23 year old system was working fine at that time.

It's now 12 years since i did that maintenance.

THE SYSTEM, NOW 35 YEARS OLD CONTINUES TO WORK FINE - NEVER FAILED - EVER.

I should note that I keep meaning to replace the pump itself, but just havent gotten around to it

The vacuum pump is still the same pump that was there when I bought the boat 18 years ago - who knows, it could be 35 years old......

Simply put, the idea of replacing a vacuflush system with something "simpler" is a bad choice

Maintaining your existing system back to tip top condition would cost less than a full tank of fuel and a whole less aggravation than any other option

That waste tank is for the TOILET ONLY and holds 40 gallons !

HOLY $HIT BATMAN !

Please allow me to restate that: That waste tank is for the TOILET ONLY and holds 40 gallons !

Surely that 40 gallon capacity is adequate to last for some time and should cover you if you dump the tank when you refuel

IN MY OPINION, (don't get pi$$ed off here) doing any other kind of homegrown "gravity" system, chopping out the existing porcelin head, or any other kind of non-factory wild idea is an IRRATIONAL and foolish way to solve this problem.

I hope you will reconsider your options, and avoid a $hitty situation

The REALITY is you have only one.

Your actual cost to analyze the problem and restore the system may be so simple and inexpensive that it surprises the $hit out of you


RWS

[El L Sea]

Maintenance costs for the vacuflush are insignificant.

The soft goods are duckbill valves and the vacuum seal at the bottom of the bowl

Diaphragms on the pump - or replace the pump

I am the second owner of a 1983 International - owned her since 2001

Did a major mechanical refit in 2006 to diesels and while in there decided to PRE-EMPTIVELY replace all the soft goods in the sanitation system while the engines were out.

So heres the STRAIGHT POOP !

the 23 year old system was working fine at that time.

It's now 12 years since i did that maintenance.

THE SYSTEM, NOW 35 YEARS OLD CONTINUES TO WORK FINE - NEVER FAILED - EVER.

I should note that I keep meaning to replace the pump itself, but just havent gotten around to it

The vacuum pump is still the same pump that was there when I bought the boat 18 years ago - who knows, it could be 35 years old......

Simply put, the idea of replacing a vacuflush system with something "simpler" is a bad choice

Maintaining your existing system back to tip top condition would cost less than a full tank of fuel and a whole less aggravation than any other option

That waste tank is for the TOILET ONLY and holds 40 gallons !

HOLY $HIT BATMAN !

Please allow me to restate that: That waste tank is for the TOILET ONLY and holds 40 gallons !

Surely that 40 gallon capacity is adequate to last for some time and should cover you if you dump the tank when you refuel

IN MY OPINION, (don't get pi$$ed off here) doing any other kind of homegrown "gravity" system, chopping out the existing porcelin head, or any other kind of non-factory wild idea is an IRRATIONAL and foolish way to solve this problem.

I hope you will reconsider your options, and avoid a $hitty situation

The REALITY is you have only one.

Your actual cost to analyze the problem and restore the system may be so simple and inexpensive that it surprises the $hit out of you


RWS

+1

We did the seal kit once.

[fighterpilot]

RWS, well poop, oh I mean well put. You are making a convincing case for trying to get it fixed. I have asked about getting it check with a local expert here using the local fishing forum. No response. I guess the approach would be to check out the vac motor since I don't get any response from it. Don't know if there is a cut out switch involved that functions for other issues like lack of water or a full holding tank. The boat manual I have indicates I should refer to the mfg manual which I don't have.
Anyway, will see if I can sort it out before I start cutting. Don't need it until fishing seasons starts so have some time.

Also have to figure out that black fixture which I believe is a y valve of sorts. Since the macerator motor runs and if I can get the valve set could find out if tank full or not. But hate to force that as a valve, since if something breaks understand the outlet for the macerator discharge is right at the water line and don't want to contend with a flooded boat. So everything may have to wait until haul out after Christmas.

We refuel locally and no pump out available, but could stop by a pump out station on the way back from the Gulf I guess.

Appreicate your help RWS, and the rest of the forum. Don't give up on me. FP

[P-Dogg]

And i hope im boating when I'm 85. Heck, i hope i know it when I'm 85!

[fighterpilot]

Another question on the system. The switch on the dc panel, labeled head, Does it just provide current so when the toilet lever is pushed down the vacu flush works? Right now when I flip that switch on it flips back off after about a sec or two. Suggests something is overloading the circuit. But with out the foot lever being pushed down the vacu flush shouldn't be drawing power should it?? ?????Thank.

At 85 I am blessed to be able to get down into and out of the bilge. Got good genes, mother lived to 102, but probably won't make that with Agent Orange exposure, prostate cancer, which I may have beat, and diabetes which is manageable.

My goal is get the boat squared away and ready for next season. Gives me something to look forward to every day.

Thanks for your support.

[RWS]

these links may be helpful with the circuit breaker issue.

possible, but unlikely a weak breaker, but it sounds like bad pump motor OR blockage caused by wrong toilet paper OR perhaps both...

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?thr ... ing.78223/

https://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showt ... ps-breaker

Here is a printable Vacuflush OWNERS MANUAL which includes a TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

http://www.marinesurveyorontario.com/Va ... Manual.pdf

RWS

[fighterpilot]

RWS, thanks a lot for the links. Already printed out the manual. All the links will be a big help. Will let you know of my progress.

[rickalan35]

So Fighter, What Vacuflush model is that in the photo anyway??? I don't recognize it. It does indeed remind me of what we always called the "Air Canada Heads" that I had when I first bought my former 36 foot TriCabin. Maybe P Dogg had one as well.

Rick

[P-Dogg]

The cylindrical one is the old style. My new heads are served by rectangular tanks maybe 8x8x18, with the pump integrated into the top. Tank is under vacuum (i added vacuum gauges because none were provided by the factory, and thats what engineers do). When head is flushed, the goods get pushed into the tank by the column of air between toilet seal and outer space. Vacuum switch senses change in pressure in the tank, and the pump pumps the goods from the vacuum tank to the holding tank, which i placed immediately below vacuum tank. It is not much of a vacuum, only 10" of Hg, so the "vacuum" tank is 2/3rds full of air when ready for action.

[fighterpilot]

AFter reading RWS posts I did a little more checking this morning. Toilet lever up puts water into bowl, but toilet lever down, nothing happens. If the water leaks down that would be an indication of a seal issue.??? Would that also indicate the line isn't already full?? As well as the holding tank. Can the water gravity feed thru the system if the seals aren't good? Will have to trouble shoot starting with is the pump getting power and go from there. That is another day, next week. Not really looking forward to taking it apart. LOL.

One more item--don't know if I posted this or not--When I flip th head switch up it pops right back down in about a second. To me this indicates a short somewhere--probably a seized motor in the vacu pump.???

[fighterpilot]

One more opinion needed. Looking at the pictures of the toilet installation. I am guessing the pipe leading into the end of the Vacu Tank from the forward bulkhead is the flush pipe from the toilet. It appears to be an 1 and 1/2 inch pipe. Is it fair to assume it is 1 and 1/2 diameter up into the bowl of the toilet? If I can get the water out might be able to check it, but ??????

If it is 1 and 1/2 inch than could it be diverted and drain directly into the holding tank which is lower. Since lifting the lever up on the toilet brings in water and the slide valve for dumping is about 3 inches, why couldn't the existing toilet work like the Jabsco Twist and lock manual 29090 toilet?? Of course this is dependent upon the outlet being 1 and 1/2 inch diameter vice the 1 inch mentioned earlier in this post.

ATrojan005.JPG (77.78 KiB) Viewed 9801 times

[prowlersfish]

You would still need some kind of pump . I would not use gravity feed . Even if it did work you would smell the tank every time you used it . I relly don't know how well any pump but the vacuum pup would work on it

[fighterpilot]

Regarding the odor. What did we do with our motorhomes? I have had 6 of them starting in 1979. They were gravity feed. Maybe there was an odor treatment we used. When we flushed the water and material passed and the door was closed. Very little exposure and maybe the chemicals used hid the odor. ??? Wonder how all the gravity feed toilets continue to be sold. Maybe it is the price. Existing toilet has a pump system aside from the vacu-flush. Before you vacu-flush, you lift the lever and water is brought in. Instead of manual it is 12 volt power. Just instead of a vacu flush when you push the lever down one would get gravity feed. If orientation would permit it on this layout.
It won't be used much. Fishing boat, not cruiser or live aboard.

[WayWeGo]

If I can get the water out might be able to check it, but ??????

A shop vac with the filter removed should take care of that.

[fighterpilot]

Shop VAc, Your are correct. i rigged our Californian so I could pump the holding tank with a big wet dry shop vac. Than carried it up to my septic tank and dumped it. Put a Y valve in the line and made a hook up for the vac. Have in mind doing that for this boat if I can gravity feed to the tank and make the Y valve installation pretty simple. Thanks for the suggestion.