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P-dog will you be hooking up a 3rd meter for the gen-set ?
It is done. I did not include it in the post because it would be like the movie Groundhog Day. I just showed the shore power set-up because I did it first. I figured it would be enough to encourage people who might not think that they can do it to actually try it. It is a straightforward improvement and rather easy to do, if a tad time consuming because I worked methodically, enjoyed being on the boat in the marina on a slow weeknight by myself (had that first beer watching the sunset from my bow seat -- contemplating the windlass and spotlight install), and ended-up making a few intermediate trips to Radio Shack because I didn't plan well enough.
One note of caution: These are 50 amp-rated meters. The generators on tris are 6.5 Kw, which equals 54 amps at 120v. I have no idea what the meter would do if "overloaded" (it is only a signal input that is out of range, not a power input). I figured that if I was asking 50 amps from my generator, that would be enough.
I needed a less expensive hobby, so I bought a boat!
now if we could just source a reasonably priced replacement set of LED polarity indicators for those of us whose factory units are no longer functioning, we'd be all set.
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
now if we could just source a reasonably priced replacement set of LED polarity indicators for those of us whose factory units are no longer functioning, we'd be all set.
RWS
+++++1 on that one buddy.
1982 F-36 TRI CABIN ENTERPRISE
PARKSIDE MARINA IN MIDDLE RIVER, MD aaronbocknek@gmail.com
P-Dogg wrote:....One beer and two hours later....Note the star lock-washer between the panel and the crimp terminal....The orange wires (right) and white wires (left) are twisted from the coil to the meter so that they don't pick-up any stray induced current from the conductors that they run adjacent to....Time for another beer....
Very good post. These points you touched on are critical in a proper and SAFE install. The only problem I would have is just the "one beer" in "two hours" Great job, bet a few guys will consider this one.
Here's a thought that I'm thinking would be handy and considering adding as well; bought a didgital LED frequency meter several years ago to install in the panel and monitor marina and generator output. It's an especially good tool to ensure your genny for example is set up properly and delivering proper rpm at a given load. I haven't installed it yet but thinking it would be a neat project to tinker with....not a critical reading as voltage will tell you a lot but I like bells and whistles!
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
I have the meters but due to family first things I have not got time to install them. There were pictures you posted but gone now can you re- post them on here as Bob has fixed the picture posting issuer. I wan to make the install and include the Genny. I have a much larger sampler that will actually look at each battery even while starting, can sample 1000 amps.
Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
P-Dogg wrote: ↑Fri Aug 10, 2012 4:02 pm
My 1985 tricabin left the factory without any ammeters installed, something I find incredulous, since I think that there should be some way of indicating how much power you are drawing other than blown breaker method. Wanting to know how much load I as actually drawing from my shore power lines (and my generator as well, when it is in use), I undertook the minor task of replacing the analog volt meters in my panel with digital LCD units that measure and display volts and amps simultaneously. For those of you who may be tempted to do the same, here is my story.