New to me Trojan 10 meter

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prowlersfish
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by prowlersfish »

Trace the hose from the pump to see if it goes to the exchange or trans/oil cooler first and look there . You will also have to trace the water connections as they likely added on by a owner at one time .
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

So I hooked up to the hose outlets at the transom and apparently they are part of a fresh water flush for the engines.

Joyous fun trying to replace the missing ER bilge pump I wired it up apparently to the wrong wires I wired it to the High Water alarm wiring so as soon as I put the battery on my horns went nuts. :lol: -fixed but funny

So when I got to the boat today my Shore Power apparently went wierd. I got the light on that says Neutral is hot hot is open. I turned it off and removed the shore power cable at the boat and pole. Reset the pole breakers. Reseated the cable at both ends. Turned the shore power back on and same thing. Not sure what would have happened over night. Left it off with the cable unplugged to be safe.

Seems the boat is 1 step forward 2 back atm.
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mrrudely »

boat is in marina del rey southern california
not sure how bench would get to you
not going to remove it for a while yet but if you can tell me how I can send a photo

re: carpeting
I removed it and replaced it with 3/8" plywood teak and holly, had to to it in a few pieces
old carpeting had no provisions for access to pumps etc.
I made hatches in the new wood floor

not sure what small aft bilge pump you are referring to but I have one that looks like it is directly
attached to a thru hull, may be for a bait tank

I am in the process of installing Racor fuel filters in addition to existing ones

I have a water connection on the transom as well but have net yet tried to see what it is for

hope this helps
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

mrrudely wrote: Wed Apr 15, 2020 2:13 pm boat is in marina del rey southern california
not sure how bench would get to you
not going to remove it for a while yet but if you can tell me how I can send a photo

re: carpeting
I removed it and replaced it with 3/8" plywood teak and holly, had to to it in a few pieces
old carpeting had no provisions for access to pumps etc.
I made hatches in the new wood floor

not sure what small aft bilge pump you are referring to but I have one that looks like it is directly
attached to a thru hull, may be for a bait tank

I am in the process of installing Racor fuel filters in addition to existing ones

I have a water connection on the transom as well but have net yet tried to see what it is for

hope this helps
Lol long haul for a bench freight would be a nightmare. I do know some folks in cali though. Maybe convince the wife we need a Disney trip,

Would really like to see some picture of your floor.

The tiny bilge is in between the er and bow pumps in the same space as the fresh water pump. I'll get a pic tomorrow.

Got the er bilge running right.

But now one rpm gauge quite. I worry I damaged something climbing in and out of the engine room.

So my shore power hose, removed the y and the end of the cord is burnt up. I did an ohm test and could get readings from either wire back at the other end.
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by Moderator »

The burnt up Y connection happens as the female end gets a little lose and you get resistance and or arcing . You can replace the ends .
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

Moderator wrote: Thu Apr 16, 2020 6:21 am The burnt up Y connection happens as the female end gets a little lose and you get resistance and or arcing . You can replace the ends .
Thanks! Hopefully that's all it was. I'm just grabbing a new cord and will try it out.
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by prowlersfish »

When one end is burnt , good chance what plugs into it or what it plugs into is also burnt .
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

prowlersfish wrote: Thu Apr 16, 2020 10:38 pm When one end is burnt , good chance what plugs into it or what it plugs into is also burnt .

Very true. The y connection is burned. I plan to not use the y.
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

So I feel stupid. The little space under the cockpit is the Mid-Cabin. In the area peoples feet go the PO put the fw pump. Also in the space aft of the toqards the er wall is a small bilge pump and I think its the depth sensor.

Does anyone have a good pic of how that area should look?
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by RWS »

wish I could help, but mine is an Express model

The hulls are the same, the stringers and machinery placements are all very different

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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

Alright guys haul out happens Wednesday. They include a pressure wash and blocking.

Aside from bottom paint, checking all the running gear, and replacing all the zincs, anything else specfic i should check look into while out of the water?
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by RWS »

[*]make sure ALL of your seacocks operate correctly

[*]remove any remaining MALERON thru hulls - likely on the sides of the hull

[*]before you remove her from the water, eyeball the areas where the trim tabs are attached to verify you have no slow leak (I had one that would just seep, took YEARS to locate)

[*]check the shaft bushings

[*]consider repacking your shaft seals

Any money left? its a great time to upgrade your electronics and easily replace the bottom finder

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1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/

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mowens
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

RWS wrote: Mon Apr 20, 2020 1:23 pm [*]make sure ALL of your seacocks operate correctly

[*]remove any remaining MALERON thru hulls - likely on the sides of the hull

[*]before you remove her from the water, eyeball the areas where the trim tabs are attached to verify you have no slow leak (I had one that would just seep, took YEARS to locate)

[*]check the shaft bushings

[*]consider repacking your shaft seals

Any money left? its a great time to upgrade your electronics and easily replace the bottom finder

RWS
Thanks,

Ill check the seacocks for sure I have tested a few thus far but I will be methodical.

I am not sure what MALERON are but all the visible through hulls are metal except for 1 black on on each side of the hull thats almost at the cap forward of the vents I will check them all.

I did this yesterday, looking for the blower and some other access points. Dry as a bone in those corners.

Thanks, I absolutly want to chech the shaft bushings, and seals. I will repack. Both are dripping almost constantly not like 10 min. I just want to see the shafts and props first just in case I need to order replacements there. Recently found out the boat hasnt been hauled out in about 10 years. All the zincs are gone and I don't know for how long. Is there an easy way to get to them? I tried just looking at them but im not a contortionist. I might send a kid in.

Nope no money left lol

Yea replacing the depth finder would be good. I tried to get it working but no luck yet. It might be permanently dead.

-- - considering she goes but that one engine wont go over 1500 in gear im curious if its a issue with the transmission, shaft, prop, or fuel. I am going to check the antisiphon valve for the fuel. I also read to crack the gas cap as a test. - That makes me ask is there an rpm limitation for reverse?

-- - starboard engine still steaming like mad over 2500 rpm but decent water flow. I think its time for a back flush. All the hoses seem to be in order no collapse, although I cant look while underway. I did a hour long cruise at 8kts yesterday and the heat exchanger is still full so I don't think im loosing it there.
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by WayWeGo »

mowens wrote: Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:47 pm
RWS wrote: Mon Apr 20, 2020 1:23 pm [*]remove any remaining MALERON thru hulls - likely on the sides of the hull
I am not sure what MALERON are but all the visible through hulls are metal except for 1 black on on each side of the hull thats almost at the cap forward of the vents I will check them all.
I believe what RWS was referring to was Marelon, which is a fiber impregnated polymer. While it is technically rated for use below the waterline, I prefer metal. I would have no qualms using it above the waterline. Plastic through hulls have no place on my boat if they are not Marelon and above the waterline. https://www.forespar.com/what-is-marelon.shtml
All the zincs are gone and I don't know for how long. Is there an easy way to get to them? I tried just looking at them but im not a contortionist. I might send a kid in.
If your boat is still in the water and you think the zincs are gone, you can get a "fish" to use temporarily. This is a zinc that has a wire and clamp attached to it, so that you can drop the zinc over the side of the boat and attach the zinc to your bonding system (assuming the bonding system is intact and all the metal you want to protect is attached to it). https://www.boatzincs.com/hanging_anode_zinc.html
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Re: New to me Trojan 10 meter

Post by mowens »

WayWeGo wrote: Tue Apr 21, 2020 2:37 pm
mowens wrote: Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:47 pm
RWS wrote: Mon Apr 20, 2020 1:23 pm [*]remove any remaining MALERON thru hulls - likely on the sides of the hull
I am not sure what MALERON are but all the visible through hulls are metal except for 1 black on on each side of the hull thats almost at the cap forward of the vents I will check them all.
I believe what RWS was referring to was Marelon, which is a fiber impregnated polymer. While it is technically rated for use below the waterline, I prefer metal. I would have no qualms using it above the waterline. Plastic through hulls have no place on my boat if they are not Marelon and above the waterline. https://www.forespar.com/what-is-marelon.shtml
All the zincs are gone and I don't know for how long. Is there an easy way to get to them? I tried just looking at them but im not a contortionist. I might send a kid in.
If your boat is still in the water and you think the zincs are gone, you can get a "fish" to use temporarily. This is a zinc that has a wire and clamp attached to it, so that you can drop the zinc over the side of the boat and attach the zinc to your bonding system (assuming the bonding system is intact and all the metal you want to protect is attached to it). https://www.boatzincs.com/hanging_anode_zinc.html
Thanks, I assume my black ones are those. If they are the only ones they are above the water line. I will know for sure tommorow.

The zincs are for sure gone. I replaced the heat exchanger ones the other day and they where completly gone. Since the boat comes out in the morning I wont worry about the fish but thanks for the idea.

-- I think I found my steam issue. The exhaust hose from the strainer to the check valve for the flush system had a hard bend almost like it was crushed. I replaced with a new hose ran that engine up to 3k rpm and no steam.

-- I tried to remove the fuel filter, but it wouldn't budge. I also couldn't remove the fuel antisiphon either. i will try again. - Talked to PO he said they didnt replace that filter prior like they did the other so I think that might be the problem with the 1500 rpm in gear. I figure while the boat is out of the water I can get down there easier.
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