Solar Panel

[Rodman]

I just got my Solar Panel today and Inverter.
The panel is 24v the inverter is 5000watt max 10000

[LSP]

will you be pulling the truck behind your boat? kidding of course .....

[Rodman]

will you be pulling the truck behind your boat? kidding of course .....

Matter of fact, that truck is to big to pull that boat. That one is a F350, 7.3 diesel. I have f250 7.3 diesel I will be using to pull the boat with. Ill post photo of the truck so you can see why.

[Coralkong]

How is the solar panel related to the inverter?

I mean, I guess I get it, but you're going to drain a battery way too quickly with an inverter for that solar panel to keep up with it.

Confused.

[Rodman]

How is the solar panel related to the inverter?

I mean, I guess I get it, but you're going to drain a battery way too quickly with an inverter for that solar panel to keep up with it.

Confused.

The output of a solar panel is usually stated in watts, and the wattage is determined by multiplying the rated voltage by the rated amperage. The formula for wattage is VOLTS times AMPS equals WATTS. So for example, a 12 volt 60 watt solar panel measuring about 20 X 44 inches has a rated voltage of 17.1 and a rated 3.5 amperage.

V x A = W
17.1 volts times 3.5 amps equals 60 watts

Charge Controller:
A charge controller monitors the battery's state-of-charge to insure that when the battery needs charge-current it gets it, and also insures the battery isn't over-charged. Connecting a solar panel to a battery without a regulator seriously risks damaging the battery and potentially causing a safety concern.

Charge controllers (or often called charge regulator) are rated based on the amount of amperage they can process from a solar array. If a controller is rated at 20 amps it means that you can connect up to 20 amps of solar panel output current to this one controller. The most advanced charge controllers utilize a charging principal referred to as Pulse-Width-Modulation (PWM) - which insures the most efficient battery charging and extends the life of the battery. Even more advanced controllers also include Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) which maximizes the amount of current going into the battery from the solar array by lowering the panel's output voltage, which increases the charging amps to the battery - because if a panel can produce 60 watts with 17.2 volts and 3.5 amps, then if the voltage is lowered to say 14 volts then the amperage increases to 4.28 (14v X 4.28 amps = 60 watts) resulting in a 19% increase in charging amps for this example.

Many charge controllers also offer Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD) and Battery Temperature Compensation (BTC) as an optional feature. The LVD feature permits connecting loads to the LVD terminals which are then voltage sensitive. If the battery voltage drops too far the loads are disconnected - preventing potential damage to both the battery and the loads. BTC adjusts the charge rate based on the temperature of the battery since batteries are sensitive to temperature variations above and below about 75 F degrees.

Battery:
The Deep Cycle batteries used are designed to be discharged and then re-charged hundreds or thousands of times. These batteries are rated in Amp Hours (ah) - usually at 20 hours and 100 hours. Simply stated, amp hours refers to the amount of current - in amps - which can be supplied by the battery over the period of hours. For example, a 350ah battery could supply 17.5 continuous amps over 20 hours or 35 continuous amps for 10 hours. To quickly express the total watts potentially available in a 6 volt 360ah battery; 360ah times the nominal 6 volts equals 2160 watts or 2.16kWh (kilowatt-hours). Like solar panels, batteries are wired in series and/or parallel to increase voltage to the desired level and increase amp hours.

The battery should have sufficient amp hour capacity to supply needed power during the longest expected period "no sun" or extremely cloudy conditions. A lead-acid battery should be sized at least 20% larger than this amount. If there is a source of back-up power, such as a standby generator along with a battery charger, the battery bank does not have to be sized for worst case weather conditions.

The size of the battery bank required will depend on the storage capacity required, the maximum discharge rate, the maximum charge rate, and the minimum temperature at which the batteries will be used. During planning, all of these factors are looked at, and the one requiring the largest capacity will dictate the battery size.

One of the biggest mistakes made by those just starting out is not understanding the relationship between amps and amp-hour requirements of 120 volt AC items versus the effects on their DC low voltage batteries. For example, say you have a 24 volt nominal system and an inverter powering a load of 3 amps, 120VAC, which has a duty cycle of 4 hours per day. You would have a 12 amp hour load (3A X 4 hrs=12 ah). However, in order to determine the true drain on your batteries you have to divide your nominal battery voltage (24v) into the voltage of the load (120v), which is 5, and then multiply this times your 120vac amp hours (5 x 12 ah). So in this case the calculation would be 60 amp hours drained from your batteries - not the 12 ah. Another simple way is to take the total watt-hours of your 120VAC device and divide by nominal system voltage. Using the above example; 3 amps x 120 volts x 4 hours = 1440 watt-hours divided by 24 DC volts = 60 amp hours.

Lead-acid batteries are the most common in PV systems because their initial cost is lower and because they are readily available nearly everywhere in the world. There are many different sizes and designs of lead-acid batteries, but the most important designation is that they are deep cycle batteries. Lead-acid batteries are available in both wet-cell (requires maintenance) and sealed no-maintenance versions. AGM and Gel-cell deep-cycle batteries are also popular because they are maintenance free and they last a lot longer.

Using an Inverter:
An inverter is a device which changes DC power stored in a battery to standard 120/240 VAC electricity (also referred to as 110/220). Most solar power systems generate DC current which is stored in batteries. Nearly all lighting, appliances, motors, etc., are designed to use ac power, so it takes an inverter to make the switch from battery-stored DC to standard power (120 VAC, 60 Hz).

In an inverter, direct current (DC) is switched back and forth to produce alternating current (AC). Then it is transformed, filtered, stepped, etc. to get it to an acceptable output waveform. The more processing, the cleaner and quieter the output, but the lower the efficiency of the conversion. The goal becomes to produce a waveform that is acceptable to all loads without sacrificing too much power into the conversion process.

Inverters come in two basic output designs - sine wave and modified sine wave. Most 120VAC devices can use the modified sine wave, but there are some notable exceptions. Devices such as laser printers which use triacs and/or silicon controlled rectifiers are damaged when provided mod-sine wave power. Motors and power supplies usually run warmer and less efficiently on mod-sine wave power. Some things, like fans, amplifiers, and cheap fluorescent lights, give off an audible buzz on modified sine wave power. However, modified sine wave inverters make the conversion from DC to AC very efficiently. They are relatively inexpensive, and many of the electrical devices we use every day work fine on them.

Sine wave inverters can virtually operate anything. Your utility company provides sine wave power, so a sine wave inverter is equal to or even better than utility supplied power. A sine wave inverter can "clean up" utility or generator supplied power because of its internal processing.

Inverters are made with various internal features and many permit external equipment interface. Common internal features are internal battery chargers which can rapidly charge batteries when an AC source such as a generator or utility power is connected to the inverter's INPUT terminals. Auto-transfer switching is also a common internal feature which enables switching from either one AC source to another and/or from utility power to inverter power for designated loads. Battery temperature compensation, internal relays to control loads, automatic remote generator starting/stopping and many other programmable features are available.

Most inverters produce 120VAC, but can be equipped with a step-up transformer to produce 120/240VAC. Some inverters can be series or parallel "stacked-interfaced" to produce 120/240VAC or to increase the available amperage.

Efficiency Losses:
In all systems there are losses due to such things as voltage losses as the electricity is carried across the wires, batteries and inverters not being 100 percent efficient, and other factors. These efficiency losses vary from component to component, and from system to system and can be as high as 25 percent. That's why it's a good idea to speak to someone who has extensive design experience - like us! - to properly configure the right equipment for you.

[Coralkong]

So you've got it under control then....lol.

Okey-Dokey.

[prowlersfish]

All that and I don't think you got a answer to the question

[Rodman]

I am using 4 semi batteries.

Amps: 1750
Cranking Amps: 1750
Cold Cranking Amps: 1400
Voltage: 12


I am going to place them under storage were the seating is on the left side of the boat. These batteries are strong and long lasting. I know the Solar Panel will not keep them all charged. I am going to have shore power when the boat is not used with Battery Tender for each battery.

[prowlersfish]

I use them as starting batteries

[foofer b]

And my boat leans to the right.

[rossjo]

Been running off of solar panels (not just 1 - just in case) for 3 years now ... no problems. Can't run AC off of solar, but keeps everything charged up and ready to go ...

I have a small inverter, but seldom use it ...

[prowlersfish]

And my boat leans to the right.

My boats Level But I lean to the Right

[Paul]

Rodman,

Keep in mind that if you're going to house 4 8D batteries under the port seating in the cabin that you need to ventilate it. Batteries give off explosive gasses when charging and discharging. We don't want to see any Trojans going up in smoke let alone anyone getting hurt.

As far as the boat leaning to one side goes, just add some balast to the opposite side.

[Coralkong]

Reinforce the floor! That is a TON of weight on a single sheet of old plywood.

I assume you are putting them in boxes, too.....

[wowzer52]

Deadly, explosive gases from acid and lead, inside the cabin where your family sleeps and cooks. Can't you find room in the bilge (two on each side of the engine) where there is ventilation and seperation letting the bilge blower do its job? Even though I had to use smaller group 27 batteries (six, 2 for starting and 4 for house) in parallel to get them to fit and added a marine 3 bank charger I feel my family is safer. The cost of putting batteries in the cabin could be much higher than just batteries and charger. When considering the battery installation process, my worst fear would be to wake up one morning and find one of the children or grand children did not wake up or starting breakfast with a boom. I have had several experiences with batteries blowing up and it's not pretty. Another thought, I have used 8-D batteries in the past and when it came time to change them I decided several group 27s are alot easier to handle. Also, with that much weight forward you might change the handling characteristics of you boat. I do love the idea of four 8-Ds though, lots of horsepower is always good. Just some things to think about.