F26 express hollow keel..
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
F26 express hollow keel..
I've seen some innovative solutions to eliminate the science experiment that grows in this chamber, but I wondered if anyone has attempted to
fill the chamber with one of those two part polystyrene liquid foam floatation kits. or the likes...?
fill the chamber with one of those two part polystyrene liquid foam floatation kits. or the likes...?
Greg
Hi Greg,
Filling that void would be a great idea but the problem with foam is that in time it will absorb and hold water. In earlier posts I remember someone using a 2 part epoxy with filler that aparently worked well.
Where in Southern Ontario are you?
Filling that void would be a great idea but the problem with foam is that in time it will absorb and hold water. In earlier posts I remember someone using a 2 part epoxy with filler that aparently worked well.
Where in Southern Ontario are you?
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
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the foam is actually a two part polyurethane foam (not a polystyrene-polystyrene foams will not resist hydrocarbons-they'll melt and not approved for marine applications. what you're proposing would probably work-and the foam won't get wet if they're not subject to hydorstatic pressure (submerged in marine applications).
- vabeach1234
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This is just an idea but have you looked into Seacast at http://www.transomrepair.com
I just used this stuff in the transom of my 13' Dell Quay. It's pourable and if you don't add too many fibers, it will level out. Of course it will be heavier than foam, but the people at seacast says it's floats. It will bond to the inside of the boat hull and should add some rigidity.
Just a thought.
Ken
I just used this stuff in the transom of my 13' Dell Quay. It's pourable and if you don't add too many fibers, it will level out. Of course it will be heavier than foam, but the people at seacast says it's floats. It will bond to the inside of the boat hull and should add some rigidity.
Just a thought.
Ken
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- RWS
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During the refitting of my 10 meter international we had the fuel tank out and determined that if we cut a large enough hole in liner we could set the rear bilge bump down lower, actually below that gap between the liner and the hull.
Now the pump is attached to the hull, below the liner and sucks up all that bilgewater that was formerly unreachable.
Don't know how this may apply to the F series, but hope it helps.
RWS
Now the pump is attached to the hull, below the liner and sucks up all that bilgewater that was formerly unreachable.
Don't know how this may apply to the F series, but hope it helps.
RWS
I replaced the manual bilge pump in the hanging locker with a 12v pump and installed a pull switch for it under the bilge pump swith on the panel. Ran hoses to this pump, after installing a filter and a screen on the end of the hose. Had to cut out a larger area in the fiberglass over this hollow keel. Ran the hose into the hollow, and now I pump whenever there's some water. You'll get bilge water from the prop stuffing box so you'll always get some nominal water. I installed a dedicated auto bilge pump on the top of the hollow keel.
Randy P
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"