varnish vs oil

stevocom · Post by **stevocom** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:04 pm

teak varnish vs teak oil, pro's and con's of either please.

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:14 pm

This topic has been discussed in many past posts. You will get positive and negative comments on both processes....it boils down to personal preference. I'm in the teak oil camp, easy application and natural look. down side is you have to do it 1-2 times a season. Upside....easy prep (wash with stiff brush and tide laundry soap with bleach paste) nothing to peel and natural look.....you will get many more responses.............John

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:15 pm

messed up post.. never mind...

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:16 pm

Oil - short term, but looks most 'natural' for the teak. Expect to re-oil every month or two. Varnish - longer lasting, less 'normal'. There are other options as well such as Deks Olje, and Cetol. Different looks, different lifespans, and also depends on climate etc. I use varnish on aft rail (Interlux Goldspar), Cetol on most other wood (that takes wear and tear), and Cetol with Cetol Gloss on my pulpit. Wheel is Epifanes no-sand varnish. For all of them - anywhere from 4 - 7 coats. Usually get 3-4 years before any sanding/re-coat necessary.

Here are pics with my results
Wood Finish examples (part 1)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... f=1&t=3206

Wood Finish examples (part 2)
https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/view ... =1&t=12738

stevocom · Post by **stevocom** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:41 pm

I often wonder if varnish on the bridge ladder would be slick when wet. I have young children i worry about up and down the ladder.

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:22 am

For rungs on the bridge ladder : Varnish - slippery - don't do that. Regular etol or most Teak Oils, less slippery (the most non-slippery solution is to do nothing and let the sun bleach the &%^()# out of the rungs... or coat them with some rubberized composition. Safe and non-slippery yes, but looks like crap in my opinion..) Best middle ground (again, in my opinion) - Cetol (either 'original' or 'light', but don't use 'gloss').

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 6:45 am

I have varnish on the outside teak and use oil on the inside teak. That is the way the boat was when I purchased it a couple of years ago. I don't think I have the energy to remove the varnish although I prefer the natural look.

You're right, my swim ladder is a little slippery when wet.

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 6:59 am

Your post said one or the other, so forgive me if you have ruled it out, but painting it with two part polyurethane (epoxy). It is very durable, and will last for up to 5 years in the sun. I finished my swim platform two years ago and sprinkled it with sand while the first coat was wet, painting over it on the second coat to make a wonderful non slip surface. It looks as new as the day I finished it.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:35 am

as far as varnish on steps You can put a strip of no-skid tape on it and it still looks good

as far as painting teak

ugh

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:45 am

Cetol Natural. Used teak oil for years on the sailboat and it looks ok but doesn't last. Cetol Natural used on all exterior teak trim and swim platform (with non-skid added to next to last coat). This year I'm removing all the interior teak trim, doors, etc and will sand and varnish to several coats for a high gloss finish. I replaced the original cabin floors with teak/holly plywood and finished with 2 coats matte poly. Does not slip when wet. Will remove them also are refinish them the same way. The Cetol Natural on the swiim platform and exterior teak has lasted for 2 seasons. Any touch up is easy - sand where necessary and recoat once or twice as needed.

mtwolf · Post by **mtwolf** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 6:52 pm

The teak inside my 73 F-31 was originally finished with Watco Teak Oil according to the original owners manual that I have. Watco can be purchased from home Depot. Directions say that it can be used outside as well as in. I refinished all the inside wood several years ago. About the easiest stuff in the world to use and provides a nice flat teak oil finish. It is really a resin. I use Cetol on my outside teak rails though. Oil just didn't hold up for me.

John
1973 F-31

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:09 pm

[quote="

as far as painting teak

ugh[/quote]

Down south here I boat 9-12 months a year and want something that holds up to the Florida sun. Plus I don't want to reapply every year.

297Elegante · Post by **297Elegante** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:20 am

I have Cetol Natural, and Cetol Gloss for my teak. I have read good things and really like the ability to "patch" small areas as they claim.

BTW captainmaniac, beautiful teak work. Nothing looks better than well cared for teak on a boat!

sehord · Post by **sehord** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:19 pm

I use teak oil on mine, but i have to redo it every 2-3 weeks.... am i using a cheap oil or is it just the hot florida sun on mine?

captainmaniac · Post by **captainmaniac** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 2:11 pm

297Elegante wrote:BTW captainmaniac, beautiful teak work. Nothing looks better than well cared for teak on a boat!

Thank you! The best part of it all is that the job usually lasts 3-4 years before I have to do any maintenance.