Transport and blocking 1984 F-32 at home

[shulersbbq]

I am trying to move my F-32 Medallion to my home (about 65 miles) to have more time to finsh a total refurb started last year. I've had a couple of decent bids off of UShip (950-1000) but I have a couple of questions. 1)-Do I have to remove the flying bridge and if so how do I do that? 2) When I get her home what do I need to know about blocking her up to avoid any damage to her bottom over 12-16 months?

Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. Prowlersfish and Stripermann2 were right. Medallion series carried a lot more options and teak than the standard, including teak all the way around under the rail, teak steps on ladder, teak bow pulpit, teal sole in the cockpit, and the worthless wet bar (replaces the lower helm) only 2 & 1/2 ft from the galley.

Shulersbbq

[Stripermann2]

You will need to remove the flybride console and surround. Check with any local marina and ask the preferred method of blocking. I have had mine blocked on the rear chines and keel with no problem.

Here is a discussion from an earlier post regarding the flybridge.
Also, once you get her home and complete whatever you're doing, are you placing it in the water nearby or will you need to transport again to a ramp or well? Do you plan on dis-assembling and re-assembling?

http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... 76274aea1e

[jav]

Yes - the flybridge needs to come off. The boat loaded on the trailer can't exceed 13'6" in height and most haulers will insist it's below 13'0" which can't be done with the bridge on. With the bridge off, mine was just shy of 12'.

To remove the bridge is no small task but it can be done. All the railings and ladder need to be removed. The helm seat and station needs to be removed and this is a lot of work due to all the wiring, shift and throttle controls and steering. Once that's all unhooked, it just unbolts and can be removed. Then the innder flybridge dress panels are removed and the bridge surround is un-bolted. I put some rug down on my fore deck and just placed the bridge on the foredeck and lashed it down (very tight squeze but it fits). You'll need a bare minimum of 4 guys to lift this - 6 is better.

Once home, you'll need enough blocking for 3 keel supports (about 24" high.) I used 12"x12"x24" timbers stacked 2 high ( 6 peices total). One pair goes right at the transom to keel union and this has to be built up some (with 2x6's) since this portion of the hull is higher in the absence of the mini keel. The other 2 sets of blocks go under the mini keel fairly evenly spaced but trying to stay under or near internal bulkhead locations. As they drop the boat on the blocks, I used cedar shingles as shim's to make sure hull sat evenly on all 3 points so as to distrubute the load evenly.

Lastly, you'll need at least 4 adjustable boat stands (6 is even better). As the hauler rests the boat down on the blocks, you set-up the rear stands (near the transome corners adjusting sie to side level) and they set the boat down. Once the trailer pulls out, the front stands get added. Many haulers are experienced at this and they will help or even do it for you but you need to make sure you have all this ready to go on moving day. Also- keep in mind that if your dropping the boat in your yard (grass or soft gorund), you may need some plywood pads under the stands to keep them from sinking in.

Good luck.

[wowzer52]

I am in Washington state and when I had my F-32 transported from Tacoma to Longview on the Columbia River (approx. 100 mi.) I did not remove the bridge. Instead, the transport company brought a lowboy trailer that was designed for taller boats (low belly) and was able to get the total hight down to 14'10". Because it was so close to the 15' limit the driver hired a pole car, (an extra $200). The height limit without permit is 14', and over 14' they carry a permit, over 15' they need a pole car. Because they are a full time transport company they carry full time oversize permits and when they haul a tall boat they call for a second pilot car with a pole mounted on the front and adjust this flexable tipped pole to the proper hight as an extra insurance (mandatory). These pole car drivers must be certified and have exact information on all overpasses, routes and other obstacles. The route is determined ahead of time. With the boat tied down by the driver and the pilot cars in place they were off. These guys were good and knew what they were doing. As I followed at 70 mph I was amazed at how they knew what overpasses to go around and which ones to go under. There was one overpass that I thought was going to take the top off but they zipped right through with about three inches to spare. The pole car was set two inches above the load and he stays far enough ahead to make any calls he might have misjudged (heaven forbid). The whole ordeal was a great learning experience and afterward I had a good Idea of what to look for in a boat transport company. After all, I had talked with several companies and this one seemed to be the most professional, fully insured, knowledgable, answered all my questions, and as I watched the driver work on loading I didn't see anything questionable as far as equipment or technique. Afterward one of the other companies called and was angry wanting to know why I didn't use him after talking with him previously. He answered his own question, additude. The driver of the company that I used said they deliver all over the US, Canada and Mexico and to and from the east coast. He also said that if they happened to be in the area at the right time that they could cut the cost. .. Associated Boat Transport Inc. Marysville, Wa. find them on the web. Who knows, they might be in the area. One more thing, if I would have known that rain, snow and slush would make such a muddy mess in the boat, I would have had it shrink wrapped first.

[Stripermann2]

Wowzer, that reminds me of the story of a well known boat builder who had a model's flybridge, etc removed to go to a boat show. When it arrived and was being put back together, workers noticed the salon where it meets the sides were all squished...

During transist, it cleared all but one overpass. Although technically the trailer and boat should have cleared to DOT..., it didn't and just skimmed on through.

The road was recently overhauled and paved!!!! It set the roadbed up at least 6" over what it was originally set at!

So...one never really knows the pitfalls one may encounter these days!

[wowzer52]

That had to have been an ugly feeling when they noticed that big oops. In the early 70's I learned that lesson in a self loader log truck. I had been under the Ostrander log train tressel many times before with a few inches to spare and one day I was thinking how nice the road was since they paved it. When I went under the tressel I felt it and hammered the throttle and looked in the mirror and saw wood chips flying through the air. On my way down the mountain coming back loaded I had more clearance from be loaded down but I saw where I had taken out about an inch and a half of the bottom side of the tressel. No major damage but I sure remember that ugly feeling in my stomach... During my boat transport I remember thinking that even though it may take a lot of time and labor to remove the bridge it only takes one mistake to have it removed the quick way, hit an overpass. I was just glad the transport company had good insurance.