What Do You Guys Think About Re-Using These Seacocks ?

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 12:25 pm

I was planning on getting some new seacocks but wondering now if I should just use what I have. They clean up pretty nice. I know they are kind of a pain to operate since you have to loosen the "T" handle before operating the valve. I don't mind getting new ones but there are plenty of other things to spend money on with this project. What do you guys think?

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 12:51 pm

They look to be in good shape. As long as they don't leak, I'd use them.

jav · Post by **jav** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:17 pm

Useable for sure although I'm not a fan.

If your diligent with maintenance (cleaning/grease/proper use), they work and last a long time. If you neglect them (as most do), they can be a pain when you need them most. I prefer newer (full port) teflon sealed ball valves.

Mike Kulp · Post by **Mike Kulp** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:21 pm

I removed mine had them glass beaded and powder coated, reassembled them and lubricated. I work them every year and they have been in use for 11 years with no problems.

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:28 pm

mine leaked so I replaced them with a Groco ball style. I have a flush out which sits on top of the seacock and the two handed operation every flush was a pain.

Worst case, you can replace them at some point but now would be the ideal time to do it. They don't make a direct flange replacement for that style and you have some glass work to do anyway.

If you decide to replace them later on, you'll have to fill the old holes and re-drill for a 3 bolt flange. I'm sure you can sell yours for something, I even got about $30 just for scrap on the old ones.

Bob

P.S. - If you decide to keep them and want to add the flush port, I have the bronze adapters from my old setup.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:37 pm

BobCT wrote:mine leaked so I replaced them with a Groco ball style. I have a flush out which sits on top of the seacock and the two handed operation every flush was a pain.

Worst case, you can replace them at some point but now would be the ideal time to do it. They don't make a direct flange replacement for that style and you have some glass work to do anyway.

If you decide to replace them later on, you'll have to fill the old holes and re-drill for a 3 bolt flange. I'm sure you can sell yours for something, I even got about $30 just for scrap on the old ones.

Bob

P.S. - If you decide to keep them and want to add the flush port, I have the bronze adapters from my old setup.

=========================================

+1

It will NEVER be as EASY to do as it is NOW !

This is an IMPORTANT safety feature for any boat, especially one in the water!

A penny saved today could cost you more time AND cost down the road or perhaps even the whole boat later...

Ball valves, Baby !

The only way to handle ANY raw water inlet !

RWS

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:18 am

All good points and info. I'm leaning towards installing new seacocks. But I'm having trouble figuring out the best layout. I would like to add the functionality of having the motor pumps act as bilge pumps incase of emergencies. To do that I've come up with 2 scenarios outlined below. Both have pros/cons the way I see it. I'd be very interested in your opinions!

Option 1

Uses a 3-way Croco valve - Cost @ $650

Pros - Uses just 1 valve, provides "tidy" installation and operation.

Cons - Costs more. Has to be 1.5" because they don't make the 3-way valves in 1.25". I don't like the "screw on" valve, doesn't seem to be as strong as a flange with an incorporated valve as in option 2.

Option 2

Uses Crogo Integrated base w/ Valve - Cost @ $600

Pros - Stronger base for load distribution because of integrated valve. Less cost.

Cons - Uses 2 valves. Might take up more space for packaging.

What do you guys think? Excuse me if you think I'm over analyzing this but I always like to plan everything out and think things through. I'm leaning towards option 1 but would love your opinions. I also have installation qustions but I'll wait to ask those.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:29 am

I'll send along photos of my crash pumps with the fresh water flushing tee later on today.

Yours will be a slightly smaller size with the 454's. I think mine are 2" for the diesels.

RWS

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:46 am

Natchamp wrote: Cons - Costs more. Has to be 1.5" because they don't make the 3-way valves in 1.25". I don't like the "screw on" valve, doesn't seem to be as strong as a flange with an incorporated valve as in option 2.

Have you looked at these: $71 for 1 1/4"
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/APOLLO ... Pid=search

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:05 pm

Hey, that looks promising. I looked up the specs and talked to the manufactures rep. They are indeed marine rated and used for marine applications all the time according to them. These valves do have positive shut-off which some of the generic 3-ways I looked at didn't. Thanks for the info.

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:35 pm

Groco sells a flush/crash valve. Check out the SSC-1250 which installs right on top of the seacock. That way it's just 2 pieces for each engine.

That's what I did, replacing the same setup you have now. I made new backing plates for the 3 bolt flange seacocks. I used marine grade ply and about 3 coats of epoxy. Don't skimp here, there's always rainwater in the bilge and the backing plates are wet a lot of the time.

Bob

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 1:00 pm

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the info. I looked at those but I don't like how there is no provision for a hose barb. So, with no hose barb I can't route a hose to the lowest point in the bilge. Unless I'm missing something they will only function when the water level reaches the valve level. Which in my case would be rather high because they would be on the fore end of the motor room.

jav · Post by **jav** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 1:20 pm

Just make sure they are big enough to flow what your cooling system requires. The Granger valve does not appear to be full port (lists -"standard port"). I would make sure you get valves where the smallest apperture (usually the ball-hole) is at least as large as your engine manufacturer recommends for flow.

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 2:21 pm

Here's my very simple crash pump setup.

Any water sucked in would gave to fo through the strainer.

I have since added a quick disconnect "plug" to avoid a serious problem in the event the fresh water flush ball valve was to get bumped.

no more bungee cord!

RWS

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 3:05 pm

Mark - Groco does make an adapter with a screen which can be plugged into the port in the event you need it. In my case, the valve sits on top of the seacock so probably 10-12" of water before water would flow in. I'm ok with that, it's the lowest part of the bilge and would be nowhere near deep enough to effect the engines running. The adapter that comes with it has a standard hose connection on one end so you could easily keep a 1-2' piece of flexible hose attached to get to the bottom of the bilge.

They don't show you this mystery part in their pics, but each SSC comes with one so you'll have two.This is what I use to winterize as well.

I permanently attached a copper basket in front of my battery compartment so all this stuff is right there in case of emergency.