draining/changing oil

g36 · Post by **g36** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 2:19 pm

i know you can suck the oil up through the dipstick.but for something that would get the oil from the bottom, i wondered if anyone has replaced the drain pan plug with a permeant adapter and attached rubber hose to suck the oil out. which you would hook up to your pump at oil change time. my f32 with 318's has a 1/2 npt plug and would be easy to adapt a fitting and hose. if you have done this what type of rubber hose did you use? i know that you would have to be careful because the oil can breakdown some types of rubber. any thoughts?

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:42 pm

Any hose rated for hydraulic oil use would be good. But you're most likely not going to use this hose permanently, only when you drain the pan. AutoZone or other auto shop can probably set you up with what you need.

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:53 pm

This came from a member on another forum. Looks like an easy to use set-up with what Randy suggested. Just attach your pump, open the valve and there you go!

g36 · Post by **g36** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:46 pm

i've looked at several "premade" set ups but, 1 they are expensive for what you are getting and 2 there was none that had the 1/2 npt that are the plug sizes on my engine oil pan. yes i want to leave this attached premeantly and have the hose capped off and on a hook or something for easy access with the end higher than the pan. sounds like the hydraulic hose mentioned already would be a good choice. oil change should be as simple and non messy as possible, imo. thanks randy, and striperman that pic looks similar to my thoughts. i wonder what the hose is in between the pan and the valve?

LandVF36 · Post by **LandVF36** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:29 pm

I've hooked up hoses to both engines and the genny in my F36. The local NAPA parts store made me custom lines from hydraulic hose with 1/2 NPT fittings. They all route to the aft bulkhead wall of the engine compartment. I pickup up a Flojet brand chemical pump at the local tractor supply. They had sealed motors with integrated switches (no sparks) for $59 last fall. Same product from Flojet in a marine catalog is going to be at least double that!

I exchanged lines with the pump, and from there to a 5 gal bucket last fall, capping the lines that when not in use. This year, I plan to mount the pump on the wall. Can't decide if I'll add extra bypass valves to the final solution. It would be nice to refill the engines by running the system backwards....

David Kane · Post by **David Kane** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:46 am

I'd rethink running the system backwards to refill. You'll backwash whatever sludge/gunk is in the line right back into the engine, defeating the purpose of draining.

LandVF36 · Post by **LandVF36** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:02 pm

The sludge is the downside to the refill. The comerical systems you see that do this suggest to only change the oil after engines have reached full temp. I'd guess that is so the "sludge" doesn't get stuck in the lines.

Instead of running backwards to fill, I think I'll swap the valve covers on the port engine so I don't have to move the couch and open the engine hatch to add oil back in. Today, the only oil fill on the port engine is on the valve cover towards the far port side.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:00 am

I put a drain hos eon the pan on my 26' Chaparral )trailered) with Mercruiser 454/Bravo combo. I just push it out the drain hole and remove the end plug to drain. VERY easy - and gets the gunk (is the a word?) out!

I bought my wife a 14' McKee for Valentines, so we now have a nice tender ... and it gets about 5-6mpg!