1987 10 meter mid cabin complete restoration.

[yorklyn]

Mike,
I just remembered something. I had alot of "Cup" in my props before the adjustment. They removed alot of cup from the blades when they adjusted them. I may have the before and after sheets from the "prop Scan" in my files. If I can find them I'll post the info.

[Unchained]

Thanks Todd. I just looked through all of the paperwork I ordered from Bob at Beacon Marine last year and saw the factory listed 16x17 super cup props for the 10 Meter Mid-Cabin. I would be interested to see the scans. Thanks.
Mike

[yorklyn]

Havent found the scans yet mike but I know their someplace. I just started sorting out every wire on the entire boat! I've learned more about boat wiring in the last two weeks than I ever knew before.
Decided I did not like my origional plan to use epoxy coated plywood for the seacock backing plates. I ordered a piece of 3/4 inch fiberglass from McMaster Carr (my new favorite place!!!!) and used a hole saw to cut out the backing plates. I then dry fitted it to the boat and cut the thru hull threads to length. I decided that I no longer wanted to drill any more holes through the hull . I drilled the holes for the three bolts and used a 5/16 x 18 tap to thread the fiberglass plate. I threaded a 1-1/4 bolt into it and used a wrench to tighten it up. no issue at all with the bolt pulling out (I cranked pretty hard on it!) I was origionally planning on recessing nuts in the botton of the backing plate but the fiberglass is so dense I dont think its necessary. I think the next step is going to be alittle tricky. I plan on wrapping the threads of the thru hull with tape to protect them, mix up some thickened epoxy and bed the backing plate to the hull. The tough part will be to index the tapped holes with the seacock while making sure the seacock handle is oriented correctly and not squeezing out all of the epoxy. then I am Hoping the taped on the threads will allow me to remove the thru hull so I can bed it properly!
next step is to get the battery box cleaned up and make a platform for it to sit on so the wiring can proceed on!

[aweimer]

Here is a great site that talks about using fiberglass for backer plates and options.

I think counter sinking the nuts would be the way to go, you would hate to have them strip out once they are epoxied into the hull.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

[Unchained]

Thanks for the update Todd and good choice on the fiberglass material, it's extremely strong. I'm pulling out my battery box too this weekend. That solenoid was sticking last year so I think I'll replace it. I'm curious what material you used on the inner stringers when you replaced them. I'm replacing my outer stringer with 2 x 12 kiln dried high grade dimensional lumber and sealing with epoxy, but can't find it in that width to do the inner. I have some soft areas on both sides and was going to use some CPES, but not sure that's such a good idea. I can see where water has been getting in, so I can take care of that. I find it strange that they have water lines going through the stringers and nothing is sealed around there in case of a leak. Anyway, look forward to your suggestions. Take care.

[yorklyn]

I used 3/4 inch marine grade plywood. I epoxied and screwed two pieces of the 3/4 plywood to give me the correct width. I rounded the top of the stringer so the fiberglass could flex better without creating voids. I used polyester resin when I installed the stringers and added a capful of Styrnene (nasty stuff) to the inital wet out to promote adhesion as per the Fiberglass guy who helped me. I reduced the height of the outside stringers slightly to allow room to remove and install the gas tanks without cutting the decks. We went thicker on the glass to compensate for the reduced height. If your only replacing a section of stringer make sure you splice to the old stringer, I believe a 12 to 1 splice is recommended. We did the best that we could and added some additional glass and reinforcing. I went with plywood because it is what was origionally used and is stronger than dimensional lumber when used in this fashion.
Alittle Rot!

Plywood Stringer

stepped stringer




Splice

[RWS]

Now where does this wire go?

but seriously, I wish I had known about that fiberglass for the seacock backing plates when I did my refit.

Far nicer than my own epoxied wood.

This will be yet another awesome 10 meter refit !

RWS

[yorklyn]

Silicon bronze bolts for the seacocks just came today along with the longer intake thru hulls for the engines. Unfortunatly my dumb-ass ordered 1-1/2 inch which is the actual hole size throught my hull. I ordered thru hulls with an ID of 1-1/2 so their too big!! What sucks is I actually know better!
I got the port oval window re-installed . I went ahead and used Buytl tape instead of caulk to bed it. I put the tape on really thick and used six clamps to slowly compress it in place and then carefully removed the tape that oozed out. It appears to be sealed good but only time will tell.
I built the base for the battery box and hooked up a single battery. My boat actually had power for the first time in 5yrs!!! Macerator is hooked up and working as is the shower sump. Had to order 12-2 wire to redo the power to the water pump. I will be figuring out the bilge pumps tomorrow. I want to be sure I have the high water alarm wired correctly.

[yorklyn]

The forward and middle bilge pumps are wired (althought I'm not sure if they are totally correct with the alarm , but thats another story!) while wiring the forward bilge pump I found a hidden splice in the shower sump wiring that I didn't see yesterday. I ripped out what I did yesterday I replaced the entire wire back to the switch. The vaccum pump for the head is wired as is the new vaccum switch (which we never had before! we used to charge the system then flip the switch at the panel and flush! what a PITA that was!) Ran the new 5/8 hose for the ac supply. installed the new soundproofing material on the engine room bulkhead and have been slowly sorting out wiring.

[yorklyn]

Decided I needed a break from wiring so I switched from electrician to plumber! I complete replaced the entire fresh water system in the boat today. only thing getting reused is the water pump and hot water heater. it wasnt as bad as I thought . used 1/2 pex tubing and shark bite fittings . Added a hot water line out to the wet bar (only had cold before) still need to secure it in places .

[yorklyn]

I finally feel like i'm getting somewhere. I epoxied my five fiberglass backing plates to my hull. I put tape around the thru hulls then bolted the sea cocks to the backing plates. I then coated the other side of the backing plate with thickened epoxy and threaded the seacock onto the thru hull. I tightened it until the epoxy began to ooze out from all sides and stopped one I had the handle indexed in the direction I wanted. I allowed the epoxy to set up for a few hours then carefully removed the bolts and carefully unscrewed the seacock and popped out the thruhulls. I didnt want to take the chance of the epoxy gluing them in.
The attachment points for the rear bilge blower covers were rotted. I made new mounting blocks and epoxied them on.
I reglassed the bottom of the battery box. it had tons of screw holes in the bottom as well as some cracks. all better now!
I did the final install on the rebuilt bow pulpit. I wasnt happy with the large gaps on the side of the pulpit where it met the hull. the factory simply used a huge caulk bead. i put duct tape on the hull where the gaps were, installed the platform, took thickened epoxy and forced it into the gaps ,filling them. Allowed the epoxy to set up, removed the pulpit (epoxy didnt stick to the duct tape ). I then sanded everything down, used fairing filler and sanded again. I then upgraded the mounting bolts to 1/2 carrige bolts with larger heads (a tip from BOBCT )
Installed the old charger and replaced all the wires to and from it.
made a new mounting plate for the AC pump (old one was cracked) and wired it up.
painted the rudders and struts with zinc paint which was recommended by the prop shop that straighted my strut.
I decided to grind out all of the old blister repairs and redo them. Some of them were questionable and I decided I didn't want to worry about them.
I actually started to blow the dust off of the generator!

[RWS]

Wish my thru hulls looked like that !

Based on all the improvements, this boat will have a very long durable, reliable and trouble free life.

RWS

[yorklyn]

"Reliable" and "Trouble - Free" are two word that have never applied to any boat I have ever owned!

[BobCT]

Todd - those backing plates look great, wish I knew you could buy them like that. I used marine ply and sealed them with epoxy which will probably outlast the boat. You're making some great progress, are you trying to get in sometime this year?

I'm in the finishing stages of my pulpit and reinstalling this weekend. I should have either done the epoxy myself or painted it, the gel coat I had done doesn't look that great. Yeah, I know what you mean about that pulpit to deck joint. The gap is huge and was just caulked.

Bob

[yorklyn]

I doubt if I'll make it in this year Bob. At this point I'm just trying to get everything ready to be surveyed before june. What's wrong with the gel coat? wrong tint? Good luck with the install. I ended up drilling new holes on the small piece of rub-rail under the pulpit. I raised the holes to get better penetration through the lip of the pulpit to help tie it better to the hull.