MCCK Generator

[Bob Giaier]

Good point about cleaning the carb. I'll suck it up and take it and the pump out. In regard about the fuel filter, there is a small jar style filter inline before the pump. There filter was missing. It has a small petcock in it that was shut. I opened it and passed carb cleaner thru it to make sure all was clear.

The fuel tank is full, but you do have a point about the pick up tube length. I had the tank Renuz.'d and I "assume" the pick up tube was reinstalled properly.

Thanks for the tips. I'll report back.

[Bob Giaier]

I did remove the carb and fuel pump and brought it all home. I used a 1/4" hex socket to get the torque head bolts off that hold the pump on. I took the pump apart and cleaned it with carb cleaner and purged the pump after it was assembled with brake cleaner. It pumps brake cleaner so it should be good.

I cleaned the main jet which holds the carb bowl also in place. I couldn't get the bowl off and I see it uses a gasket not an o ring and I really didn't want to buy a gasket kit. I'm getting rid of the old glass bowl fuel filter and am going to add a clear plastic filter with hose fuel line to feed the fuel pump.

I'll be bringing it all back to the boat this week end and I'm pretty sure it's going to run!

I'll report back.

[gardnersf]

If at all possible, try to cycel or blow carb cleaner through the carb if you are not going to take the bowl off. The last two times I cleaned my carb, the float area was covered with crap that had come out of the fuel. It dissolves easy enough.

[Bob Giaier]

Good point. I'll make sure I do that. Thx

[Bob Giaier]

I put the pump and carb back on with a new fuel filter on line and tried it. It actually started and purred like a kitten. Runs real quiet. I tried some lights and even turned on the Princess oven. The generator doesn't strain at all to run even the oven.

It didn't immediately pump water, but it came to temp and stabilized at about 170 degrees measured at the cylinder and the the exhaust manifold. I don't see a thermostat in the manual, but it acted like there is one. Just wondering.

Once it got warm the choke wouldn't open. Looks like I have to take it back to clean the choke mechanism and make sure it works freely.

I have a few things that I still need to solve, one is the gen doesn't run on demand when the dip switch is in auto. It only operates with the switch in the run position. I have to study the electrical diagram to figure that out. The other item is I wonder if anyone had installed an overtemp switch in the exhaust manifold. There is a 1/4" npt plug on the manifold and it looks like it stays about 170 degrees.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the help.

[larryeddington]

There are two t stats if raw water cooled 140 deg not sure for fresh. Choke gave me the fits wound up replacing the bimetallic coil, spendy but had to have.

[gardnersf]

Did you get water after a few seconds? You should have water flow to keep it cool.

Assuming FW cooling, your Tstat is probably 165. That leads to a 170 Op temp.

Not sure if this is a diesel model or gas, but if Gas, I would rather not have the auto start feature. Good chance that the genny starts when you may not want it "Fumes"

[gardnersf]

Also, my overtemp switch is surface mounted on the exhaust elbow. Someone may have jumpered it out

[Bob Giaier]

Thanks guys,

It is gas not diesel and it has a timer that automatically runs the blower for almost 10 minutes. It's pretty cool. After the blower runs for 10 the blower shuts off and the gen automatically starts. The first time we tried it we were surprised, when after 10 everything got quiet with the blower shutting off, then a few seconds later it starts cranking. i agree though that i'd probably never use the "on demand" , but I still don't know if I'd ever use the gen anyways. It's fun to play though.

The water flows great, it just took about maybe a couple minutes to come out. Just wondering if that was due to the t stat or maybe everything was just dry inside.

Any opinions on putting a overtemp switch in the exhaust manifold 1/4 npt plug. Any idea what the plug is for? Also if the gen operates at 170 depress, would a 200 degree OT be correct?

[Big D]

I also have the auto start feature but would never use it. It is a separate box for my vintage. Not safe in my opinion and Onan stopped supporting it so no parts, manuals etc available from Cummins now that I could find. I think that move was related to the lawsuits and insurance companies don't like seeing it on surveys. For it to work though, you need to apply a load first. I can't remember the minimum wattage required for the unit to kick in but I know a 100 watt light bulb in a lamp for example will do it if the circuit is working properly.

[Big D]

The over temp switch for raw water cooling opens at around 200 deg and closes around 160 but that's mounted and measured at the head. Some units have a OT switch mounted on the exhaust elbow also. Where is the plug you are referring to? Do you have a water injected exhaust elbow? If not and the plug is on the flywheel side, that is what that plug is for. If it's the plug on the opposite side, it escapes me right now but it may be for a closed cooled manifold application. Perhaps someone with one of those units can confirm.

[Bob Giaier]

Interesting about the auto start. I'm looking at the manual now and the water line connected to the 1" elbow out of the exhaust manifold must be the water injection you mention. The 1/4 inch plug I am referring to is on the top of the exhaust manifold. If you are looking down on the gen from the flywheel side it is on the left side of the manifold. I figure I can get a generic OT switch in the range we mentioned for cheap.

[bjanakos]

Not to resurrect an old thread, but I am curious how you are getting along with your genny Bob.

I recently picket up an F-32 with an MCCK genny and as I understand, it has not been run in a decade. As far as I know, there was nothing wrong with it, but the previous owner just never had a need for it.

Not unlike yourself, I would like to see if I can get it running... Just because it's there. My primary use is fishing charters and I don't do all-nighters. My boat is not equipped with an AC and I don't plan on baking any cookies in the Princess oven, so I really have no need for extended AC power... But, it's there.

I just picked this up weeks ago and it is already winterized, so I there is really nothing for me to do until the spring.

[Bob Giaier]

Actually, after running it the year before last , I replaced all the hoes as well as the impeller and cleaned the choke mechanism so it moves freely. I never started it up last year, I guess because like you I don't have any use for it.

I can tell you though when you try to start your it's likely that the diaphragm fuel pump may need to be cleaned, but you'll know that right away if you don't get fuel in the carb. If you remove the old class bowl Fuel filter and add on inline clear one you can see right away if the fuel pump is working properly.

Also, I had trouble finding a replacement impeller. The original impeller is brass with a molded rubber impeller. The one I ended up with is plastic molded with rubber. I'm concerned it can strip on the impeller drive shaft.

I never figured out how to bypass the delayed start where the blower runs for 5 min before stating. I guess I was too busy enjoying our short summer last season and never started the thing up again, But it looks great!

[bjanakos]

Also, I had trouble finding a replacement impeller. The original impeller is brass with a molded rubber impeller. The one I ended up with is plastic molded with rubber. I'm concerned it can strip on the impeller drive shaft.

Thanks Bob,

Did you find a replacement off the shelf somewhere? Or did you end up doing a rebuild like Larry?

I will give it some time this season and I will probably spend more time and money on it than its worth... If it's too far gone, I will probably end up removing it and possibly expanding my battery bank.