Vexing Boat Leveler Problem

[Hart]

Last year I experienced a problem with my port trim tab (Boat Leveler). It would only return halfway (travelling back up toward the transom with spring assistance). I assumed there was a seal issue, to decided to replace the seals on both cylinders, as they're the originals that came on the boat, I'm sure. I had pressure to both cylinders, and the starboard tab seemed to function fine.

When I disconnected the hydraulic line before removing them last weekend, the oil from that side definitely had a different color - pale yellow compared to a more yellow/red (I'm assuming some ATF was added to the reservoir at some point to top it off). However, imagine my surprise to find that neither cylinder (I forgot to mark them.......doh!) showed signs of a seal issue when I went to replace them. It now seems to me like some kind of binding issue, but I didn't notice any alignment problem, spring issue, or anything else to suggest a blockage.

I still have to replace the hydraulic lines to the pump that are also original, but that show no signs of undue wear or leakage - I'm just replacing the system between the pump and the tabs themselves because..............well, it's all old original stuff, though since I don't believe I have a pump issue, I am currently refraining from getting into IT.

Any ideas? Is there perhaps a low-pressure pump issue that isn't fully charging both cylinders? Seems I'd get no downward movement if that were the issue. That cylinder was locked halfway down, would continue downward, but..........as I said, stopped at halfway back up.

And thoughtful input or suggestions are welcomed.

*cue Paul, entering from stage right..............*

[mikeandanne]

there is a kit from Bennett that replaces the system to the tabs themselves,it includes the pump, lines and hardware,wiring and cylinders----you need to get the adapter to fit to the existing tabs but that is it,and cuts out the external lines----I was having issues with the insta trim boat leveller stuff and figured that if I left the old pump ,it would just give next,every time I try to save a few bucks I spend more in the long run in pieces---- seemed like a good upgrade if you are going to replace the cylinders anyway----Mike

[boatsnbars]

I bought some parts from them last spring. They were very helpful. Here is their website. Give them a call.

http://www.insta-trim.com/

[Hart]

I appreciate the replies so far, guys, but I'm really not looking for any parts. Parts are not an issue. I plan on keeping everything Boat Leveler brand, just wondering if I'm maybe looking at an issue with the pump under the circumstances described. I don't think it's a problem with the hydraulic lines themselves (unless there's a clog or other backup somewhere on my port side) as I've got absolutely zero leakage in the bilge or out of the reservoir.

I'm primarily wondering what I should be thinking about in the event I put these re-sealed cylinders back on, replace both lines, re-fill the reservoir with fresh fluid.........but still have the same problem on the port side once I actuate the system several times to charge it with the fluid.

But thanks again for the replies, really.

[prowlersfish]

Swap the lines side to side on the pump . If the problem stays on the same side then you know its in the cylinder or lines (or tab)

Also make sure the tab itself is not binding . The cylinder can force a binding tab down .

[Hart]

Now we're talking, Paul.

One thing I DID do (after the cylinders were disconnected) was move the tabs up and down, broke free any paint buildup (which probably wasn't a major issue) and sprayed the full length of the hinge with a healthy dose of WD40. I'm sure they're much freer to move now, at least compared to their mobility before.

[boatsnbars]

If you call Boat Leveler and explain what's going on I'm sure they can help. When I was having problems last spring I spoke with them to diagnose the problem. They then recommended a list of solutions. Their customer service was unreal. The person who assisted me even drove my package to the fedex office, because I ordered after their normal pick up time. I do agree with switching the hose around and see if the problem is with the piston or the pump.

[Big D]

When it sticks half way up, if you leave it there and walk away for a while, then try it again, will it continue going up? Does it hold its position when extended? Does it stick part way down also? Unless you have a problem with the spring in the actuator or a binding ram, I suspect you may have a solenoid valve issue or a wiring problem.

[captainmaniac]

Are you experiencing the problem on land only, or while in the water too? If it stops half way up while in the water, and if you run for a while, does it eventually get pushed up by the water pressure under it or stay half extended? If it doesn't move, its likely not a pump or fluid issue (the water pressure would eventually win).

[Hart]

No, that tab was frozen stuck halfway up. The problem started with the boat in the water, which is what triggered my current re-build/troubleshooting. I tried to push it in after removing the cylinder pin and detaching it from the tab, but she was stuck fast. That's why I thought there was a seal that maybe deteriorated and got bound between the ram head and wall of cylinder. I mean, it was STUCK.

That's why I'm so confounded. I just can't say I noticed any type of alignment issue with the ram inside the cylinder that would have caused it to bind up like it was.

Along these lines, is it wise or otherwise acceptable to coat the inside of the cylinder with a thin coat of oil or other lubricant? Or is that a no-no?

[Big D]

.....I tried to push it in after removing the cylinder pin and detaching it from the tab....

I trust you also disconnected the hydraulic line from the actuator when you tried this?

[Hart]

At that point, yes. The line had been disconnected.

[Big D]

This will happen in the presense of a warped/distorded cylinder but it's always accompanied by an oil leak because the seals won't seal properly under those conditions.

So if you dismantle the actuator, and clean it out properly so no contamination from an old failed seal or other matter can block the hole preventing the fluid from returning back to the pump at any time, can you not insert the ram all the way into the cylinder dry with no cap? Is the hole in the cap perfectly round? If it's elongated, that's a problem.

[Hart]

No, they're both fine now. I have re-sealed both actuator rams, the insides have been cleaned out, and I manually ran the actuators up and down through both cylinders to ensure they move freely - they do. I'm guessing this also served to blow out anything that might have been lodged in the hydraulic fluid fitting. I'm hoping that they're clear, and that by replacing the lines back to the pump, I'll be okay.

I wanted to ask again: is it okay to lightly lube the inside of the cylinders to allow the actuators to move with a little less friction? Or would any oil film just get gradually washed away? Kind of seems like that would be the case.

[Big D]

....is it okay to lightly lube the inside of the cylinders to allow the actuators to move with a little less friction? Or would any oil film just get gradually washed away? Kind of seems like that would be the case.

I wouldn't grease any area where you're chancing contaminating the oil or using an incompatible product but I don't see that it's necessary since the cylinder gets lubricated by the fluid each time it's used.