Oil capacity of a crusader model 350.

[yorklyn]

Im am actually embarrassed to ask this but its been so long since i have had engines in the boat I cant remember how many quarts they take?
Im getting ready to order my "break-in " oil and want to sure i order enough.

hell i might as well ask about the velvet drives as well! I think it was 2 quarts ATF fluid??

what viscosity is everyone running? i know it calls for straight 30 weight but realize there are alot more options out there now. I saw alot of people on other forums running 15w40?

think i was running fram PH8a oil filters but read alot of info about failures with fram filters. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[The Dog House]

Fram filters are junk. If you do a Google search on oil filter test you'll see exactly why. I use Mobil oil filters, but there are plenty of other good oil filters out there. Just don't use Fram.

[mikeandanne]

Todd, whatever you decide,my advice is to use the oil and filters that your engine guy recommends , that way if anything crops up your engine guarantee should be good...he knows what clearances he put in there...just sayin....Mike

[yorklyn]

Good point Mike!
I looked up some info online. Seriously, Fram has cardboard end caps on the filters?!?!?!?
looks like mobil one got good reviews.
Mike, I know your running model 350s. how many quarts?

[bigrgh]

six quarts is what mine holds, been using 15/40 for five years, original 350hp 454 crusaders with 1500hrs.....no problems

[yorklyn]

Thanks! I appreciate the help. At $10 per qt for breakin oil I only want to experience the discomfort of ordering it one time! Glad to hear the 15w 40 will work, I buy it in 5 gallon buckets for my other equipment.

[prowlersfish]

Todd , Break in oil ? 99% of engine makers have not used for years .( John Deere comes to mind as one of the few ) There are some rebuilders that are old school and require it , is this the case ? I also agree with use of 15w-40 , make sure it meets gas engine specs too ( most due )

[bjanakos]

I recall 454's taking 6 qts. But it's always good to check the level about a minute after shutting it down warm. I would start up the boat avery morning and take a quick trip to the pier where we picked up the customers. Once I tied off, I would always check the oil.

FRAM is ok so long as you change frequent enough, but Walmart will have Mopar, Motorcraft, Mobile 1, K&N, and Bosch. All of which are decent filters. They will have AC Delco too which is probably the closest to OEM as you can get.

NAPA will have most of the above and also WIX filters. I've become a fan of WIX for the german cars.

I've been using either WIX or Motorcraft in my previous boat. I go in with a couple other guys on a case of Motorcraft filters which gets me 4 oil changes during the season.

[yorklyn]

My engine builder recommend "Joe Gibbs racing". Break in oil. Its a high zinc ,non detergent oil.
You fill up with it, run 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Drain, change the filter and then fill up with it again and run something like 25 hrs? Afterwards you can switch to regular oil. Or so I've been told? Lol

[mikeandanne]

My engine builder recommend "Joe Gibbs racing". Break in oil. Its a high zinc ,non detergent oil.
You fill up with it, run 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Drain, change the filter and then fill up with it again and run something like 25 hrs? Afterwards you can switch to regular oil. Or so I've been told? Lol

That is good oil and at the end of the day you have a lot of money tied up in all of this so a few bucks in oil changes at the start is real good advice, so don't sweat it.....did you get new cams in those engines ?.... just curious .....Mike

[bjanakos]

IMHO - if he is giving you a warranty on the motor, then may as well do what he asks. Otherwise you are paying an awful lot of money for the name; especially if you are just going to dump it after 20 minutes.

Motor oil brands, types, procedures, and changing intervals get argued upon as if it they were religions. There are cheaper brands of break-in oil, if you choose to use it, like Lucas and Amzoil that are assuredly just as good albeit half the cost at the Joe Gibbs. You can even get away with an off-the-shelf mid-weight dino oil especially for the initial break in.

I would get on the net and start reading all the forum arguments on how to break in a motor.

I would probably fill it with a house brand straight 30 dino oil for the initial start. Let her get up to temp and run at 1000-1200 with no load. Check for oil and coolant leaks. I would then put a little load on it say 1000 RPM at the dock for a few minutes. Then shut it down, change the oil, and let it cool completely (overnight). I might try the break-in oil, or just go with Dino oil again.

After the initial, I would warm it up at the dock, then go out for a run at varying speed; not too high, not too low. Don't idle unless you have to (no wake zone) and no WOT. It run it anywhere from 1200 to cruising speed. Make this run no more than an hour. return, tie up, and visually inspect the motor, and let it totally cool. Rinse an repeat this about 5 times and each time open up the throttles a little more.

I would change the oil after about 50 hours or so with the brand and weight I normally run, then again at 100 hours, then I would go to my standard 200 hour interval.

[prowlersfish]

My engine builder recommend "Joe Gibbs racing". Break in oil. Its a high zinc ,non detergent oil.
You fill up with it, run 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Drain, change the filter and then fill up with it again and run something like 25 hrs? Afterwards you can switch to regular oil. Or so I've been told? Lol

While I don't agree fully with use of break in oil ( zincs ok, non detergent is Flintstone stuff ), I would follow the builders advice . You do want to give him any outs if there where a issue . Once its done use a good 15w-40 oil .

I will keep my mount shut on cult oils for now

[yorklyn]

Mike,
Yes new cams. thats why im really concerned about breaking them in correctly. I have absolutely no desire pull these engines to replace a cam .
At this point I can get a case of 12 quarts for $104. At this point an extra $208 sounds like cheap insurance, Lol.
I almost wish that I could have come up with the extra money for the roller cams as it would have made the break in procedure much less stressful for me.

Got another off the wall question for you guys. I plan on doing the initial 20 min break in at my shop before I bring the boat to a marina. If I have a problem it will be alot easier to pull an engine there rather than in a slip.
I'm was under the impression that the engine rpms for the initial 20 min should be up around 2000 rpm to allow for proper cam lubrication during break in (this will be confirmed with the builder before hand).
Approximately, how many gallons per minute of water will a sherwood E35 water pump move with the engine running at 2000 rpm? I have a 200 gallon and a 300 gallon water tank. If I for use the 300 gallon tank it will give me 15 gallons per min for 20 min. I plan on gravity feeding the engine by lifting the tank up with the forklift. i can roll the boat to the overhead door an have the exhaust outside.

Thanks Again for all of the help, It is really appreciated!

[mikeandanne]

Heh Todd, yup that is why I asked about the cams.....talk to your engine guy but I can say from experience that breaking in hydraulic lifter cams with low pressure springs is a snap...that 20min at 2000 is a guideline only and the 20 min does not have to take place all at once,e.g. you could do 10 then 10, its the total time to get the wear pattern and lifter rotation before you beat on it that is important....My guess is if you feed that pump from a large container with a hose to keep the container filled you should be fine....you are going to need time to time the engine etc right off the bat, also watch engine temps etc with an ir temp gun...Mike