Boat leveler trim tabs

gardnersf · Post by **gardnersf** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 9:09 pm

I found the leak in my trim tab system this weekend. Luckily it is a hose to cylinder connection. I have the Boat Leveler tabs, and it looks like there is a collar of some sort where the hose goes in. Has anyone dissassembled and remade the hose to cylinder connection on those? I know I can get new collars form the manufacturer, but I don't want to break anything on disassembly.

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:54 pm

sometime in the past, the connection colar on mine has been changed to stainless hose clamps and they are working fine.............John

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:24 am

The collars, although basic, work very well. I would recomend trying to save them for re-assembly or purchasing new ones. If you choose to use screw clamps, be sure to use 2 per connection and have the screws 180Â° to each other to ensure a proper seal. Do not over tighten.

To remove the hose, work the collar back using a twisting and conical motion while pulling. Be carefull not to damage the barbed fitting on the cylinder. If you are replacing the collar with a new one, simply slice the old one along it's length and peel it off. Next, a slice in the hose along it's length will help release it from the fitting. Be careful not to cut into the fitting itself. Remove the hose.

If using the collars for re-assembly, slip the collar over the hose then slip the hose onto the fitting. Squirt a little bit of silicone lubricant onto the hose at the connection. This will allow you to slip the collar into place fairly easily. If assembling with screw clamps, use the same process without the silicone lube.

While cutting the hose to length, be sure to leave some extra length for slack. This will allow for shrinkage over time and will also allow you to cut an and and make a new connection at either end if you ever have to repair a leak there.

Hope this helps,

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:44 am

Good information, Paul. I didn't know the collar could be reused.

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:54 am

If their in good condition and they come off without too much effort, their worth re-using. Sometimes however they seem to not want to move so this is when you have to decide whether their worth the work or not. Then out comes the knife.

fpawn1 · Post by **fpawn1** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 11:59 am

I have 81 f-32 and my trim tabs just stop working. Truthfully, I am not familiar on how they work! Anybody have diagram on the system or know about trouble shooting the system.

Thanks

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 2:42 pm

fpawn1
I believe you have Bennett trim tabs on your 81 F32. Find the hydraulic pump and reservoir. It can be found by tracing the hoses from the trim tabs back. Make sure there is fluid in the reservoir. If its empty fill it. Have a mate push one of the trim tab control buttons. You should hear the pump running. If you do you have power to the unit. If not, there may be a blown circuit breaker. My circuit breaker is on Trojanâ€™s black box. It is in the engine compartment in front of the batteries. Reset the breaker and check the pump again. (You must have power to the pump for the system to work.) If the pump still doesnâ€™t run, there is either an electrical or mechanical problem. An electrical problem could be a broken wire, bad switches, or poor terminal connections. These would be places to focus your attention. If the unit is getting power then the pump or solenoid valve should be suspected. The system is pretty straight forward. These are the simple things you can check yourself. If they donâ€™t fix the tabs, you will have to have you mechanic look at it. He may need to make repairs inside the hydraulic pump unit.

If the reservoir was out of fluid there is a leak in the system. Fill the reservoir, run the pump, and look for the leak. It could be a split hose or leaky connection. You will see hydraulic fluid in the bilge. It could also be a leaking cylinder. The leak will be in the water, and you will see the slick.

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 5:15 pm

gardnersf, You didn't say how old your trim tabs are. Most of the time, once plastic and rubber parts start failing, you are better of starting fresh. I had one start leaking at the same place summer before last. I tried the 'hose clamp trick', and tried the 'trim the hose with a hose clamp' trick...still leaked. Mine were 1980 trim tabs so I figured...time for some new parts. Boat Levelor Company is still in business and replacement parts are readily available. I installed two new actuators with new hose back to the pump unit for $200 - $250 and haven't had a leak since.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 6:58 am

the company website is http://www.insta-trim.com just tell them what make and model you have and you should be all set.
aaron of EVENT HORIZON

gardnersf · Post by **gardnersf** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:29 pm

These are original tabs on a 1986. It may be better to replace some parts while doing this. The pump\motor is in good shape.

Also I woudl like to make the tab surface bigger so I may check out some upgrade options.

randyp · Post by **randyp** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:01 am

If you've got the Insta trim levellers you can call Brian Kissing at the factory - 1-800-386-7470. He's been helpful with information for my levellers. I need to fix a leak but will wait until spring.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:20 am

gardnersf wrote:These are original tabs on a 1986. It may be better to replace some parts while doing this. The pump\motor is in good shape.

Also I woudl like to make the tab surface bigger so I may check out some upgrade options.

You say 1986 but no comment on model.
I would be hesitant on increasing the tab size.... they may look small but still should do the work.

Also in a following sea larger tabs may well cause you some severe problems... see this thread:
http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... sc&start=0

in particular the one by rossjo.
I experienced that snap action because I had too much tab at cruise in a following quarter swell and it threw the person seated on the front bench across the boat as well as making me get into action quickly. It was as if the boat was wanting to turn on its side and dive..... Not pleasant but I know now to reduce bow down trim in those conditions.

I normally cruise at 3000 rpm @ 19 mph with the bow trimmed in for best efficiency with my twin 318 Chry .88 to 1 mpg.... works fine for me in most conditions.

gardnersf · Post by **gardnersf** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:55 pm

Michael,

Sorry, my signature disappeared so I thought I had the boat listed.

I have a 1986 10 meter mid cabin express. The hull design is significantly different than the F models. It tends to ride a bit bow high.

Without the use of the tabs, I pretty much ran at 3400-3500 RPM to keep the attitude. When the tabs were working propoerly, 3100-3300 RPM is cruising.

Speed is generally 17-18 knots.

I will call the factory on Friday. I did get an email response from Boat leveler to call as well.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:02 am

gardnersf wrote:Michael,
Sorry, my signature disappeared so I thought I had the boat listed.
I have a 1986 10 meter mid cabin express. The hull design is significantly different than the F models. It tends to ride a bit bow high.

OK I understand....
To get your signature back go to Profile at the top of the forum page and put it back in.

Comment: It would be really great if every user had the boat type and year as part of their signature or Avatar (though that does not help with year) to give a clear understanding of where they are coming from.

Now on with the show.