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Bob Giaier wrote:Wow! Was there any part of the deck you didn't replace. Amazing.
I know what your saying about gravity and voids, but with the smaller area I was planning to do, I thought I'd use an inflated bladder from below. Not sure what that is exactly yet. I also thought I'd drill holes where the anchor fittings are and use that to fill any voids from the top once the core it epoxied in from below.
The reason I'm leaning on going from underneath is the top of the deck is in great shape. The only reason for the soft area is I left a hole in the deck from an old anchor mounting screw.
Why I'm suggesting you go from top. It did not seem that extensive from moisture tests and hammer soundings. Once the skin was removed we saw how gravity had pulled moisture towards the stern and so we took out all the wet core... some was soup other just wet to damp. Reason to remove damp is it spreads like a mold would, so keeps growing. Less work to even strip small amount of adjacent dry core to make the new core fit better.
What if when you open underneath your planned size you find damp keeps going away from the edge? When do you then stop from below and go to the top because the size is now larger. It is not difficult to blend in new deck with old as long as the colour is matched well.
Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
I had the same experience as Ready123 with the deck on my F-26. What appeared to be a small area actually turned out much larger. I also ended up removing the top layer and digging everything out. You'll be much better off. Here's a link to my thread on the repair. http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... f=1&t=7235
DAVIDLOFLAND wrote:You might consider using a tintable spray bedliner material (ex. Raptor) then topcoating with high quality polyurethane (ex. Imron).
Your boat looks amazing. I am always impressed with your work.
I know you guys recommended that I cut the deck from the top, but after going thru West Systems web site I saw a video showing how they cut from below. I cut mine from below.......and as you said the rot was a lot larger than I thought and it went into the anchor locker. It really wasn't that hard to epoxy. I just finished it this afternoon and yes I can hardly move and am resting on the couch while I write this.
I thought you might be interested in how I pushed the balsa up some to keep it tight to the deck. I used big rubber bands and paint stirrers. It seemed to work well. I posted some pics too.
Thanks. I'm still incredibly sore from kneeling and pushing up and whatever else. It is tuff work from below. I have other pics but can't figure out how I got the ones in the link . I'll try again later. Anyways, I appreciate the comment.
That does look like a painful repair. I took the easy way out for now. I had a couple soft spots on my front deck but because I have lots of other work I thought I would "defer" a proper job to another year.
I drilled dozens of 3/4" holes in and around the soft areas and let it air out in the summer sun for a couple weeks. The material inside did not dry, not even a little, I'm sure of that.
I thinned resin with acetone to about the consistency of water and poured it in, and it drank several gallons, and got very warm as it set up.
After hardening for a couple days the deck is rock hard. I know this is not a forever solution, but will buy me a little time
Barrie
Aylmer Ontario, Canada
36' Tri-Fly "The Obvious"
Barrie ive done the same on boats in the past and plan on doing it again to my current F32, I have other projects I'm finishing up first on her, and the house, and work of course, dont want too much downtime, the season is too short