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Just because of being a little paranoid, you might want to squirt a little bit of epoxy over that divot you dug... You have done too much good work to let that divot turn into your Achilles heel a few years from now... Also, the tranny may move a bit over time (with shaft or prop driven vibration, or motor mounts loosening up), so make sure you really have the clearance you need.
After all your work and the awesome job you have done, I would hate to see you having issues just a few years out because of a quick fix. You have shown you are all about doing it right.
captainmaniac wrote:Just because of being a little paranoid, you might want to squirt a little bit of epoxy over that divot you dug... You have done too much good work to let that divot turn into your Achilles heel a few years from now... Also, the tranny may move a bit over time (with shaft or prop driven vibration, or motor mounts loosening up), so make sure you really have the clearance you need.
After all your work and the awesome job you have done, I would hate to see you having issues just a few years out because of a quick fix. You have shown you are all about doing it right.
Yes no doubt, as soon as it warms up a bit here in NY I will put some epoxy down
I will probably put 1 layer of cloth on it as well
Then a final coat of paint on the bilge
I used 3/4" stainless steel rod to bolt down the engines, then lock washers with double nuts
Thanks for the nice comments and looking out for me
1985 13 Meter International Express w/ 8v71tti 462hp Detroits, 43' x 16'3"
Years after the diesel refit, my shaft bolts with lock washers loosened up over time.
Suggest LOCKTITE or castelled nuts/cotter pins
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
Just read your story here. Great work man! What a good feeling that must have been to clear out all that old wiring. I may just have to take your lead on that and do it as well.
Anybody got the wiring diagrams for a '76 F26?
I'll be visiting BK this October, when does the season end over there?
Captain Chill wrote:Anybody got the wiring diagrams for a '76 F26?
If you order a set of manuals from Beacon Marine, I think they will come with the original primary wiring diagrams for your boat... Mr. Prowlersfish may be able to confirm. Of course, previous owners have had 30 years to change things, so you are on your own when it comes to that!
Captain Chill wrote:Anybody got the wiring diagrams for a '76 F26?
If you order a set of manuals from Beacon Marine, I think they will come with the original primary wiring diagrams for your boat... Mr. Prowlersfish may be able to confirm. Of course, previous owners have had 30 years to change things, so you are on your own when it comes to that!
I beleve it would . Mr. ????
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
Didn't mean to hijack the thread with that wiring diagram question. I know BM sells it but I was just wondering if any member had a copy I could borrow. If so just DM me please. [Edit: I just ordered my own from Beacon}
DOUGNASH could you tell us what the name of that expensive soundproofing you used? Looks great and I think it'd be a good option for underneath my teak cockpit. Is it marine grade and meant for ER's? Link if possible, thanks in advance.
Last edited by Captain Chill on Thu Jan 28, 2016 1:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Captain Chill wrote:Didn't mean to hijack the thread with that wiring diagram question. I know BM sells it but I was just wondering if any member had a copy I could borrow. If so just DM me please.
DOUGNASH could you tell us what the name of that expensive soundproofing you used? Looks great and I think it'd be a good option for underneath my teak cockpit. Is it marine grade and meant for ER's? Link if possible, thanks in advance.
Thanks for the link. That 2" looks like it could really buffer the sound.
Did you go with the 2"?
Also, I noticed you covered the side walls as well. Does that make a big difference on the side walls for audible engine sound? I was planning on only doing the underside of the cockpit flooring but when I saw your side walls I thought hmmm should I do that as well?
I'll definitely reach out when I'm headed to the city later this year, thanks!
Captain Chill wrote:
Also, I noticed you covered the side walls as well. Does that make a big difference on the side walls for audible engine sound? I was planning on only doing the underside of the cockpit flooring but when I saw your side walls I thought hmmm should I do that as well?
The sound insulation converts the acoustic energy to thermal energy (heat). The more surface area you can get the greater the decrease in acoustic energy (sound). Putting the sound insulation on the side walls in addition to underneath the cockpit flooring will decrease the sound levels more than just underneath the flooring.
1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter OB with 1993 Mercury 150 hp Outboard
1979 Starcraft 14' Rowboat with 2011 Mercury 9.9 hp Outboard
Former boat: 1971 Trojan F26
The Dog House wrote: The sound insulation converts the acoustic energy to thermal energy (heat). The more surface area you can get the greater the decrease in acoustic energy (sound). Putting the sound insulation on the side walls in addition to underneath the cockpit flooring will decrease the sound levels more than just underneath the flooring.
Great explanation. Thanks! Will do the walls as well.