Raw water leaking

[Jbaggs]

I have a small leak in my raw water exhaust pipe. It drips about 1 time every 2 seconds. I have tighten hose clamps as much as I can but it is still dripping. It was leaking a lot more before I tighten it. It is leaking between 2 straight pieces. Is this ok or do I need to replace the piece inside of pipe? What is that part called?

[prowlersfish]

Yes it needs to be fixed . If it leaking water then its most likely leaking exhaust gases. The pipe may be damaged or maybe the hose has be come to hard to seal . It should be double clamped . got a photo ? I can tell you the parts name

[Big D]

What Paul said. If it's a fibreglass tube/coupler, it's probably broken or cracked. This can happen from over tightening. If this is the case, it'll leak no matter how much you tighten the clamps. In fact the more you tighten, the worse it'll get as the break will now allow the tube to collapse in that area and lengthen the break/worsen the leak.

[Jbaggs]

20161001_183550.jpg (179.9 KiB) Viewed 7688 times

[Jbaggs]

A fiberglass tube is inside the pipe?

[prowlersfish]

A fiberglass tube is inside the pipe?

Where you have 2 hoses jointing you have basically a peace of pipe/tubing
This can be made of F/glass or cast iron or some other material . So you can have a crack or rust or a hose issue or combination .

When I saw your photo I said wow . Honestly it needs some work .There are to many splices . I would get it down too 1 or 2 . If it was mine it would be down to 1 where the large hose and small one meet . Some will say you need the hump hose , but I feel the run is long enough where you can do with out it '.

Your thoughts Big D ?

Now when doing this the exhaust outlet needs to be plugged or you need to haul out many a boat have been sunk from the exhaust being left lose .

[Big D]

I agree, the more joints there are, the more failure points you'll have. The problem is, either way, there's going to be at least 1 extra joint for a coupler if you're dealing with two different sized hoses. A reducer would eliminate one joint though. You should be able to ditch the hump and insert an coupler but it's likely that the assembly will be shorter and you'll have to replace one of the hoses with a longer piece. At the top of the picture, it looks like there is either another joint there or it's the transom flange/pipe. If that's the case, I wonder why they didn't put the hump/reducer there instead. That would have minimized joints.

Centek makes all kinds of glass fittings http://www.centekindustries.com/

Judging by the discolouration at the leak, it may indeed be cast couplers. You should also ditch the rusted clamps.

[P-Dogg]

There is way too much going on here. You may be able to get away from the double hump as was stated, but my sentiment is that if the factory spent the money 35 years ago it was for a reason. Trojan didn't bother to seal the limber holes when they made them, so they aren't afraid to save money. I would replace everything from the riser to the transom. And when you do so, switch to all-stainless t-bolt or AWAB clamps. The rusted clamps have steel screws with SS bands.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=1718

[prowlersfish]

I would replace the hose to get rid of the one splice , also being that the pipe/coupler is cast the rust from that maybe imbedded in the hose and would be hard to seal . Again I would not worry about the hump hose my F30 did not have it and I believe its was factory exhaust as the Y was completely rusted a way , but with 30 year old boat at the time hard to be sure . My currant boat has no hump hose until you get to the muffler and the main reason its there is to change the size from 4.5" to 6" ( both the pipe and muffler do move due to mounting )( It is not OEM due to repower ) I will be changing the complete system to 6" this spring If I go all hose there will be no hump hose .If I go with all glass tubing I will use some hump hose as the hose runs will be very short. .the plan is Glass

Make sure what ever is used its rated for marine exhaust .

[Jbaggs]

Thanks for the help! If I fix the problem now I should be good till I pull out for winter? My exhaust outlets are above water line and my starboard exhaust setup is the same but not leaking.

[P-Dogg]

If you fix the problem now, correctly, you should be good for many years. Then do the starboard side after you pull for the winter. Might as well buy supplies for both sides at once. When was the last time that your risers were changed?

[Jbaggs]

Just bought boat 3 weeks ago. I know the boat was repowered in 95. So probably not since then

[P-Dogg]

repowered in 95. So probably not since then

Then it is past time to replace them. Might just be time for everything from the manifolds on back. I kinda doubt it has been 21 years, but you never know. Tons of stuff on the internet about lifespan of risers. Keep the questions (and pics) coming. You will get much better advice if folks can see what the deal is.