Oil Change

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Fri May 11, 2012 6:50 am

Allen Sr wrote:
mitch wrote:Ya will not like my way. Top mounted oil filter, remove filter, 5 gal bucket underneath, start engine, 30 seconds oil stops, stop engine, easy fix.
SHORTENED engine life also!

You got that right . thats 30 seconds with no oil going to the bearings and the rest of the engine and you run the oil pump dry every time . Thats a really bad idea

todd brinkerhoff · Post by **todd brinkerhoff** » Fri May 11, 2012 10:18 am

rooferdave wrote:p.s. before you screw on the new filter, put a bit of oil on the rubber gasket! While I am babbling consider a product such as slick 50 at this time

What are the advantages to Slick 50? Product has been around awhile, but I haven't heard anyone who swears by it.

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Fri May 11, 2012 10:57 am

mitch wrote:Ya will not like my way. Top mounted oil filter, remove filter, 5 gal bucket underneath, start engine, 30 seconds oil stops, stop engine, easy fix.

Surely you jest...?

You have a nice looking boat and I can't imagine anyone being that lazy to not do it properly to protect such an investment.

mitch · Post by **mitch** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:13 am

Torcan · Post by **Torcan** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:20 am

mitch wrote:Yes. all are right. Next time your engine sits for 30 days, count the seconds it takes for oil pressure to come up. I'll start, lub the engine, then dump. Next time I'll count the seconds, bet it's less then 15 seconds. Yes I am wrong.

Hardly the same, but hey, it's your boat.

mitch · Post by **mitch** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:36 am

mitch · Post by **mitch** » Fri May 11, 2012 11:48 am

Stripermann2 · Post by **Stripermann2** » Fri May 11, 2012 12:21 pm

mitch wrote:Surely you would agree, if only the starter motor was used to rotate the assembly, until the monument the oil was empty, zero crank/rod bearing contact would be made. Therefore,

I am right again?

Go ahead and overheat the starter motor while you're at it...

Mike Kulp · Post by **Mike Kulp** » Fri May 11, 2012 12:26 pm

WOW Thats all I have to say!!!!

mitch · Post by **mitch** » Fri May 11, 2012 12:38 pm

Mike Kulp · Post by **Mike Kulp** » Fri May 11, 2012 12:39 pm

As far as Slick 50 or any other additive ( This is just my opinion ), just use a good quality oil and change it at the required intervals. I have never seen any manufactures that endorse additives in there engines but they do require specific oils, with that said there is a product called Lucas that the used car dealers use that I poured into a 302 ford one time with a rod knock and it went away at least for a short period of time, so additives may do some good depending on what you are doing. If Slick 50 or STP makes you feel good keep on using it, certainly will not hurt.

mitch · Post by **mitch** » Fri May 11, 2012 12:48 pm

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Fri May 11, 2012 1:04 pm

mitch wrote:SHORTENED engine life ? Assume you are referring to main bearing and/or rod bearing premature failure? As implied, oil is supplied first, a coating of oil remains under a no load condition at minimum rpm. Careful review, will show, no bear metal contact.

any time the engine is running there is a load on the bearings . yes there is a oil film on the bearings and that will protect it on start up for the second or so it take to get oil pressure .. but running a Engine to pump it out ? thats pushing it . Try that in my shop and you will be looking for a job elsewhere .

mitch · Post by **mitch** » Fri May 11, 2012 1:12 pm

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Fri May 11, 2012 2:01 pm

if you guys dont mind, may I ask what oil would be best for a chrysler 318? brand and weight? thanks