Trojan Boat Forum

Exeter pump is what you mean . Not very well suited for the type of use it would get on a marine engine . easy lose prime and is not self primming . suck up some mud and you could easily lock up the pump.

update...

I changed the T-stat and the impeller, noted that the housing was scored so changed it too. Started it up and it was just the same put the heat gun around the engine, (shoulda done this first) specifically the risers/ manifolds and one is 95 degrees and the other is 148 uh oh. I swapped out my hoses for clear ones on the risers and started up....the bottom hose on my risers/ manifolds looks like a a shook up pop bottle

soooo, looks like a cracked head, there is no way it is a head gasket as that would be cheap and easy, anyhoo off I go, will check back later all

on a brighter note the beer fridge works great!!!

rooferdave wrote:update...

I changed the T-stat and the impeller, noted that the housing was scored so changed it too. Started it up and it was just the same put the heat gun around the engine, (shoulda done this first) specifically the risers/ manifolds and one is 95 degrees and the other is 148 uh oh. I swapped out my hoses for clear ones on the risers and started up....the bottom hose on my risers/ manifolds looks like a a shook up pop bottle

soooo, looks like a cracked head, there is no way it is a head gasket as that would be cheap and easy, anyhoo off I go, will check back later all

on a brighter note the beer fridge works great!!!

what kinda water pump is on them? I am looking for a used houseing for mine. Im still out the water......

Rodman

Robman Why not just get a new pump ? using old junk is just asking for trouble

Rodman wrote:

rooferdave wrote:update...

I changed the T-stat and the impeller, noted that the housing was scored so changed it too. Started it up and it was just the same put the heat gun around the engine, (shoulda done this first) specifically the risers/ manifolds and one is 95 degrees and the other is 148 uh oh. I swapped out my hoses for clear ones on the risers and started up....the bottom hose on my risers/ manifolds looks like a a shook up pop bottle

soooo, looks like a cracked head, there is no way it is a head gasket as that would be cheap and easy, anyhoo off I go, will check back later all

on a brighter note the beer fridge works great!!!

what kinda water pump is on them? I am looking for a used houseing for mine. Im still out the water......

Rodman

the housing on mine was scored, I probably overpaid for mine as the impeller was 47 bucks and the whole kit ( housing, bolts, gaskets, impeller was $125) if you want to pay the shipping I will mail you mine, but I would not want it in my boat.

On another note I switched the risers/ manifolds on the engines yesterday and still overheated....pulled the head and the gasket looked a bit suspect but not 100percent so am off to have it magnafluxed today..... will check back later

here are pics of the hot running engine with the head and intake off
also the custom exhaust I made for it, I had the head magnifluxed and no cracks (whew) turns out it was a bad head gasket, left it in the shop to be ground, for a new clean flat surface and it willl be ready lunch tomorrow.Hope to be out on the water for dinnertime.

oops double post, sorry

It seemed one engine was running a little hotter than the other, up towards 180 and above. I bought a IR temp gun and found that the temperature on the sending unit is the same on both engines, right around 160 degrees. I'm assuming the sending unit or gauge on the hot engine is the problem and that my engine is running ok.

In the process i changed the impellars and cams (guess needed to be done anyway).

Next i'll switch the wires on the gauges and see what happens. The engine with heat problem gauge had a loose sending unit wire on the engine, but it didn't change once I tightened it. There is a little plastic washer underneath the sending unit wire circle connection that has a crack/tear. This wouldn't cause the false reading would it? Anyone know the reason for the plastic washer?

davescarrs wrote:It seemed one engine was running a little hotter than the other, up towards 180 and above. I bought a IR temp gun and found that the temperature on the sending unit is the same on both engines, right around 160 degrees. I'm assuming the sending unit or gauge on the hot engine is the problem and that my engine is running ok.

In the process i changed the impellars and cams (guess needed to be done anyway).

Next i'll switch the wires on the gauges and see what happens. The engine with heat problem gauge had a loose sending unit wire on the engine, but it didn't change once I tightened it. There is a little plastic washer underneath the sending unit wire circle connection that has a crack/tear. This wouldn't cause the false reading would it? Anyone know the reason for the plastic washer?

Sometimes I wish I had twin screw, But I am glad I have single screw cause with a twin looks like to me its double trouble....

Rodman wrote:Sometimes I wish I had twin screw, But I am glad I have single screw cause with a twin looks like to me its double trouble....

Wrong answer..... twin screw means that even if one dies, you can (almost) always make it back.

Roofer Dave doesn't screw around
1. - switches the heads in his twins - no change
2. - takes the head to the shop for testing, (nothing wrong)
3. -grinds the head and installs a new head gasket,

takes photos of the whole deal and also hopes to be out on the water by lunchtime - he's just a results driven guy.

Then there's me. I have trouble wiping the dew off the boat by noon.

Way tuh go, Dave. We want a photo of that puppy underway

Man your not kidding..... he has enough motivation for this whole forum!

Davescarrs, I believe the plastic washer is simply to isolate the wire from the body so it doesn't short to ground. That would give you full sweep at the gauge.

got called into work thurs so I had a little time after work and finished up friday,put the engine together and the riser is now cool but gauges sill read hot!

put an ir gun on the engine and the engine is at 140 deg, the gauges are
incorrect, finally took the family out and they loved it! I am going away (in the car) I will post pics next week
Happy cruising all!!

OK.. I was reading this thread and just had to chime in...

We just picked up our 30' Trojan that we had purchased from the west side of Lake Simcoe. We headed out..once we got past the speed zone (up the Holland River) I brought her up on plane. Shortly thereafter I saw the temp gauge go up past 220 deg.! [sound familliar] I shut down immediately! Opened up the engine compartment (single chrysler 280 BB) and had a look and smell. Everything appeared OK.. tried starting the engine - no go.... after much fiddling and checking - I realized that I was still in-gear (dummy),,continued on our way but kept RPM's down to about 1200..and watched the heat...no problems...tried to get above 1200 RPM to get to plane and the heat would jump to over 220 deg. spent the next two days limping back to the Kawarthas where we park the boat...

When we got to the upper side of Kirkfield - dead battery... switched to second battery and continued on... got to Bobcaygeon and second battery died... luckily a VERY generous fellow boater offered me a loaner to get me home - I must get it back to him - supper good sumaritan!

I am assuming that this IS an impeller issue?? I looked at the housing today - Sherwood - something?? Are these all the same size impellers?? or do I need a model #??

I was able to get the part number from the alternator and will be replacing the old one - I'm assuming that's the "no-charging" issue..if not - voltage regulator??? or???

Does this sound like I'm on the right track???

By the way - if anyone is travelling this route - If you need to stop for the night - the upper level of Lock #38 (Talbot?) is absolutely beautiful in the evening - water was like glass!

Nice adventure (somewhat stressful at times though)..

Sorry for being sooo long winded -
Dave