Trojan Boat Forum

oil&water wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:What is your definition of Romex ? The question is to 2 of you . Not a test lol

Making sure we are on the same page

Romex is actually a brand name of what is generally referred to as solid copper wires, usually two and a ground or three and a ground, bound together in a PVC jacket.

ABYC calls for stranded copper (and usually tinned) wire due to the extreme vibration that boats experience. When solid copper is stressed it has a tendency to snap at any point that it is scored. Usually those points are where it is stripped to enter breakers or outlets. Same holds true for where it is compressed and can shake back and forth causing macro fractures that eventually cause high resistance fires due to heat buildup.

On the same page

Our F36 has shore power connections on each side of the cockpit.

I have to admit I was shocked at how organized the panel was when opened.

oil&water wrote:Our F36 has shore power connections on each side of the cockpit.

I have to admit I was shocked at how organized the panel was when opened.

Wonder if the panel was moved/changed at some point ? I know if I had one on each side I would move one . I have to wonder about Waywego's boat It looks like 2 panels put together

The twin 30 amp was a option also depending on electrical needs .

Looking at F36s online I found 2 77s with power cords on each side , with the same panel as mine . My is a 77 build 78 model . A good chance mine may have been changed to having both cords on one side . Interesting

That's why I love this Board. We learn so much by the mutual sharing of information. I would bet we know more about our group of boats in general than most boat owner groups.

WayWeGo wrote:Our F36 has Romex on all the distribution circuits and I suspect it is original. Everything I can see up to the mains is wired with stranded, but that is about all. We actually have two metal panel boxes with Masonite covers on ours:

AC Panel.jpg

Like oilandwater, a new distribution panel and wiring is on the horizon, just not sure when.

Way, do your two panels each handle one shore power inlet? My Chris Craft had two inlets and two breakers that distributed the load between them. You could also join the circuits if needed. It is interesting that yours is so very different than mine. Especially in just a two year span.

Being that each has its own breaker I bet they use there own shore power inlet . I wonder if "Waywego" Has a crossover ? Mine has one fwiw . I also believe mine had they power cords on each side when new as I thought about and there is a hole on the port side the same size as a shore power inlet . When a bout is 40+ no telling what has been changed .

We have a 30A shore power connection on each side of the cockpit in identical locations. Since we bring both power cords in on the starboard side at our slip, we end up with one of the cords running along the cockpit floor under the sliding door. That will be addressed along with a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer fairly soon, as I have a dock neighbor who seemed to be leaking over an amp AC when I went down the dock with a clamp ammeter. I just got a Fluke 87-V meter, partially because I want to look into corrosion protection on our boat.
I am not sure if one of the panels was originally on the port side, but will inspect the next time I get out to the boat. The dock water inlet and pressure regulator are now where the panel would have been.

We do have a crossover that is implemented by a breaker on the left side panel connecting to the power in on the right side panel. There are no lockouts, so you have to be careful switching that breaker. I probably should come up with some type of cover or lockout like a transfer switch would have.

The crossover breaker is the only one in the left side panel that has a stranded wire connected to it!

Progress has been slower than I had hoped. Seems like I can't keep my mind focused on any one task. Last weekend I spent 14 hours onboard a friend's boat getting him in the water. That helped my spirits slightly.

The wall paper has been kicking our butts. The bunk stateroom has been a massive time suck. We have tried the heavy duty wallpaper remover and it doesn't even budge this stuff. We have resorted to a heat gun and paint scrapers.




I at least got the hull pressure washed and pulled off all of the vents and porthole trim rings. At least now people have stopped asking if I am stripping her down for salvage.




Has anyone removed their cleats? I am slightly worried that all that appears to be left is two rusty hunks of bolts holding onto plywood and a 1x4 backer. I believe two new cleats will be added before the vents go back on.




I was also surprised that Trojan did not seal the plywood around the portholes before they put the trim rings on.

They didn't even seal limber holes in stringers....

The bolts on my stern cleats where rusted through , broke right off . lots of fun drilling out .

prowlersfish wrote:The bolts on my stern cleats where rusted through , broke right off . lots of fun drilling out .

I removed all my cleats, most need the threaded shafts replaced, Are they treaded in, or are the cleats cast around the threaded rod.
I thought I read somewhere they were cast around the rod, making them very difficult to remove.
I'm going to have them re chromed but have to repair the rod thing first

Oh! looking great!

Barrie wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:The bolts on my stern cleats where rusted through , broke right off . lots of fun drilling out .

I removed all my cleats, most need the threaded shafts replaced, Are they treaded in, or are the cleats cast around the threaded rod.
I thought I read somewhere they were cast around the rod, making them very difficult to remove.
I'm going to have them re chromed but have to repair the rod thing first

Oh! looking great!

I don't remember if mine were studs or bolts ,but they came out with some work . I think I had to drill 1 out .

Decided to get the genset taken care of today. A trip to West Marine yielded one Sherwood 09000K impeller kit, three feet of 3/4" Shields Wet Exhaust II hose, and six hose clamps. The damage, $103.43. Thank you WM, I forgot just how painful their prices were sometimes,

Stopped by Napa on the way home and purchased the Napa Gold FIL 1358 oil filter and two quarts of 10W/40 dinosaur oil. To the boat we go!

Drained the oil, changed the filter, and filled back again. I fought with the impeller for the better part of 30 min, but it finally gave way. I installed the new impeller and went to start the genset and nothing. Checked the new battery and had good voltage. Checked fuses, they were good also. Removed the back sound shield and found the problem. The starter was a ball of rust. A couple of hits with the epoxy hammer and got it to spin a little. So I attempted to pull it apart. One bolt holding the starter together sheared off. The other started to loosen and then started backing out of the threads. After I loosened everything up, I found the two bolts holding the starter on the block. Of course they rounded off the heads. Fought with the Vise-Grips for 15 minutes and finally got both bolts off. A new starter is clearly in our short future. So is new exhaust hose, the bottom drip pan, and the proper size thru-hull. We found the PO had put a smaller piece of hose on and then put the 2" exhaust hose over that. Of course CO isn't a problem... between that and the rusted breaker box behind the genset, I'm surprised the PO lived while onboard.

Don't you just love fixing other's misguided efforts!!!

Still waiting to get some quality time on ours -- too many family activities right now...