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Water Leaking down bulkhead onto sink counter

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 12:07 pm
by johnyeamans
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and have this water problem. I just bought a 1987 Trojan 11 Meter Flybridge Sedan. I noticed during a heavy rain that water was dripping at a good rate down the port wall over the sink onto the counter and to the floor. Not much I could do about it with it raining.

The next day I ran a hose onto the port side of the boat along the top of the window and again water started dripping down onto the sink counter and around the light fixture.

Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it? I don't know what to do. I'm going to try loosening the railing screws and cauling under them. Does the side window have drain holes? If they do I have not located them?

Any suggestions would be great.

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 12:39 pm
by MattSC
Not sure if this will help you or not, but in this used boat review by marine surveyor David Pascoe, he mentions that the front curved windows are prone to leak. He has some photos and other info on the boat that might be useful.

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/boatreviews/ ... 8meter.htm

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:46 pm
by randyp
Try the first approach you mentioned - loosening the railing screws and caulking underneath. On my F-26 I had a similar leak problem, but it was on the port side over the salon table and v-berth. The water would come in under the headliner and down the inside cabiin walls.

BEFORE YOU START....remember that the screws are machine screws with a washer and nut on the end, naturally, inaccessible from inside the cabin because the headliner of some other medieval device of torture is in the way.....

So, back out the screw JUST ENOUGH to get some caulk between the rail and the deck at the mounting area. Use silicone and use a 3 oz tube with the handy-dandy tube extension that comes with it. Us the smallest hole on the extension possible.

Let the caulk set up just a few minutes then GENTLY screw down to just enough tightness that the silicone JUST STARTS to weep out around. Wait a few hours if it's a hot dry day, or wait 24 hours if it's cold. Then tighten the screws down. This will prevent the silicone from oozing out of the area, and allow it to do what it does best....become a weather-proof gasket.

If that doesn't solve the problem then go to plan B which is to replace and recaulk/reseal windows. This, my friend, is best left for a non-season project when the boat is out of the water and can be covered.

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:25 pm
by rolytrojan
Check PM

Roly

Boat Leak Down Port Window

Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:23 pm
by johnyeamans
Guys, thanks for the suggestions on the leak.

It turns out the window was not leaking. One of the railing screws was loose. I could not tighten it from the deck. So, I went into the cabin and removed the plastic light cover over the sink and found the problem. There was no washer against the nut holding one of the screws in place and that left the screw turning loose and allowing water to run into the boat.

I hope this helps others with similar problem.

Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:49 am
by RWS
4 years ago we removed the entire bow rail assembly and re-caulked each base.

It was a P.I.T.A. weekend job but there was access to each base.

On the international series there is a backing plate. washers and locknuts.

We used 5200 and replaced all the fasteners with new.

Not a fun job, but I imagine the sealant shrinks and dries out and looses it's ability to continue to seal. We also did the same with the spring cleats. The one in the port closet was allowing some water in.

It's probably smething that should be done every 20-25 years or so.

RWS