How much rode line do I need (rope)
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How much rode line do I need (rope)
I was just wondering how much line do most boat owners on here have. I read that boats should have enough so when achored they can have a 10:1 scope for rough weather.
I figured about the deepest waters I would see off the coast of NC is around 130ft, so I would need ~1300 ft. Man that seems like a lot. Do I really need that much?
Thanks
Bill
I figured about the deepest waters I would see off the coast of NC is around 130ft, so I would need ~1300 ft. Man that seems like a lot. Do I really need that much?
Thanks
Bill
1978 Trojan 26
Twin 135HP Volvo's
Twin 135HP Volvo's
Bill, you don't need that long of an anchor line. A 7:1 scope will be enough to hold the anchor in almost any condition, but the deeper the water the less scope you will need. Your anchor line will resemble a parabola with the angle of the slope increasing as the depth increases. What you will need is a chain connected to the anchor to weight the shank to allow the anchor to bite into the bottom.
Normally a 5' piece of chain will be enough to weight the anchor enough the bite, but adding an additional length will make setting the anchor easier. The additional weight of the chain holds the shank down when anchoring in deep water. I wouldn't think you would need any more then 500' of line, and you could use even less if you went with a heavier longer chain.
I have a 20' piece of 5/16" stainless chain between my Danforth anchor and 5/8" anchor line. The bottom of Lake Michigan in the Chicago area is sand, clay, or mud depending on where you are. I have no problem getting my anchor to set. Depending on what the bottom consists of in your area will determine what type of anchor will work best for you, but in any case you should have a chain between the anchor and line.
Normally a 5' piece of chain will be enough to weight the anchor enough the bite, but adding an additional length will make setting the anchor easier. The additional weight of the chain holds the shank down when anchoring in deep water. I wouldn't think you would need any more then 500' of line, and you could use even less if you went with a heavier longer chain.
I have a 20' piece of 5/16" stainless chain between my Danforth anchor and 5/8" anchor line. The bottom of Lake Michigan in the Chicago area is sand, clay, or mud depending on where you are. I have no problem getting my anchor to set. Depending on what the bottom consists of in your area will determine what type of anchor will work best for you, but in any case you should have a chain between the anchor and line.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
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I do have a ~6-8ft chain attached to the anchor but not sure of the size of chain or anchor. What size line would you or anyone else here recommend. I was thinking about 3/8 but then read that 1/2 may be a better choice (one size larger then recommended). Also should I buy strand twisted nylon or solid braided nylon?
1978 Trojan 26
Twin 135HP Volvo's
Twin 135HP Volvo's
I have 25ft of chain on a 25lb CQR anchor with 300 ft of 5/8" three strand (my last boat had braided) and have no problem in extreme weather. Like gjrylands said, the chain is the key. Without enough chain you will have problems. I am very partial to plow type anchors. If I had your boat I would use a 14lb Delta anchor with at least 20ft of 3/8" galvanized chain and 300ft of 1/2" braided line and an extra 300ft of line stowed in a cabinet for towing, an emergency springline, and in a very rare case, tying on extra anchor line for anchoring in the ocean (just kidding). If you don't have a windlass an anchor ball works great for retrieval. I like to check the manufacturers recommendations and then kick it up a notch.
1975 F-32 "SIMPLY BLESSED"
- captainmaniac
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For anchoring in general, you normally want a scope of 4:1 for 'calm' conditions and 7:1 for high winds or waves. Anchor chain does help as the other posters have indicated, but remember - the harder the anchor gets set due to wind and waves, the harder its gonna be to get it back out again !
Also, when it comes to scope, 'depth' should be measured from where the anchor line leaves the boat to the bottom... so if you are in 20' of water and your bow is another 5' off the water, you should figure out the amount of line based on 25'. As well, your depthsounder may lie to you a bit - does it read depth from the transducer to the bottom, or have you dialed in an offset to account for where you have it mounted on the hull (ie how far below the surface it is) ? Might need to add another couple of feet to what it says to get real water depth.
Also, when it comes to scope, 'depth' should be measured from where the anchor line leaves the boat to the bottom... so if you are in 20' of water and your bow is another 5' off the water, you should figure out the amount of line based on 25'. As well, your depthsounder may lie to you a bit - does it read depth from the transducer to the bottom, or have you dialed in an offset to account for where you have it mounted on the hull (ie how far below the surface it is) ? Might need to add another couple of feet to what it says to get real water depth.
I use a 13lb Danforth Hi-Tensile anchor, 8 feet of 3/8 chain connected to 150 feet of 5/8 line. But most of my anchoring is in less than 15 feet of water. I also have an 8lb danforth, on 6 feet of 5/16 chain and only 50 feet of polypropelene line that I use for a lunch hook or to set a Bahamian Moor, which is done by setting your forward anchor then tossing the little guy off the stern about opposite when the bow anchor is set. Run the line of the stern anchor up to the bow and cleat it there. This allows you to pivot off the bow without having too wander the entire radius of the forward anchor rode. A great way to anchor out for the night in small coves and/or anchoring in a tight spot with other boats around.
My ideal scope with the forward heavier anchor set up is 7 or 8:1, and we're talking about an F-26, not an F-32 or bigger/heavier.
My ideal scope with the forward heavier anchor set up is 7 or 8:1, and we're talking about an F-26, not an F-32 or bigger/heavier.
Randy P
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"
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Thanks for all information! I have a better understanding of what I need for the conditions in my area.
I do want everyone to know I am trying limit my questions here by reading different books like "Chapman Seamanship & Small Boat Handling" first. But I like to make sure I am comprehending and applying the information right.
Again thanks for the tips and advise!
Bill
I do want everyone to know I am trying limit my questions here by reading different books like "Chapman Seamanship & Small Boat Handling" first. But I like to make sure I am comprehending and applying the information right.
Again thanks for the tips and advise!
Bill
1978 Trojan 26
Twin 135HP Volvo's
Twin 135HP Volvo's
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I do want everyone to know I am trying limit my questions here by reading different books like "Chapman Seamanship & Small Boat Handling" first. But I like to make sure I am comprehending and applying the information right.
While i applaud the effort to educate yourself through reading (i too read and reread Chapman's), and i hate worthless posts, keep in mind that when you ask a question here, the answers are posted for future reference for everyone to take advantage of, even, as in my case, years later. It's like in school -- just because you are the only one raising your hand to ask a question, doesn't mean that you are the only one who doesn't know. You're just the only one smart enough to ask.......
While i applaud the effort to educate yourself through reading (i too read and reread Chapman's), and i hate worthless posts, keep in mind that when you ask a question here, the answers are posted for future reference for everyone to take advantage of, even, as in my case, years later. It's like in school -- just because you are the only one raising your hand to ask a question, doesn't mean that you are the only one who doesn't know. You're just the only one smart enough to ask.......
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wowzer52 wrote:I have 25ft of chain on a 25lb CQR anchor with 300 ft of 5/8" three strand (my last boat had braided) and have no problem in extreme weather. Like gjrylands said, the chain is the key. Without enough chain you will have problems. I am very partial to plow type anchors. If I had your boat I would use a 14lb Delta anchor with at least 20ft of 3/8" galvanized chain and 300ft of 1/2" braided line and an extra 300ft of line stowed in a cabinet for towing, an emergency springline, and in a very rare case, tying on extra anchor line for anchoring in the ocean (just kidding). If you don't have a windlass an anchor ball works great for retrieval. I like to check the manufacturers recommendations and then kick it up a notch.
On our first few outings, my first mate (aka "the Admiral") complained loud and long when setting and retrieving the anchor, moaning about how hard it was to pull up. I attributed it to hormones (women!) and forgot about it till the first time I had to set it and pull it in.
Out came the bolt cutters when we got home and I lopped off 15 of the 25" or so of chain. Without a winch it is not practical to haul that much chain up and down.
MY CURRENT FLEET
2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF
2003 KEY WEST 2020 WA
1978 14' ASHCRAFT SKIFF