Trojan Boat Forum

Here is where I am now. Put the charged batteries back in boat. Everything worked except the 12v overhead light under the hardtop and the stereo, both of which usually work even without the batteries being switched on. All the instrument panel switches worked till I ran the spot light and turned it remotely at which time it cut off as did all the instrument panel swithces . All fuses were good. Spun them in their holders and suddenly all the instrument panel switches were working again. So this seems to isolate part of the problem to the fuse panel connections. Strangely the wiper motor still stayed on thru all this. Oh and the engine turned over too.


My question is : after I replace all the fuses and wire brush all the fuse holders, is there something I can do/spray to inhibit corrosion or increase conductivity of the fuse panel, so I don't lose power thru them? They are the small glass tube type fuses.
Oh and has anyone heard from Bob about some hats?

interesting thoughts on your problem....


FIXED the link...sorry

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/002410

Use wd-40 on a rag and wipe the fuses with it, and the worse one I use alittle elec grease on them silicone grease works well to.

Peter wrote:interesting thoughts on your problem....

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/002410.html

link is dead....must be censorship

Try this,

Deox-it Red... Home Depot should have it in the Electrical section. I've used this for years. It's awesome

NEVER use trichlorofluoroethane based products (like most electrical & relay cleaners have) on the boat.. Plus weeks later will melt plastic fuseholders and switches... Nasty...

There's several types, Gold Blue & Red... Blue is for protection after using Red... Read up on it... but I only use Red....

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

Note: I've been using in my Metrology labs for years... Great stuff

Good luck
Patrick

Per peters link- just erase the stuff past html in the addy and it will work.

So can I use a spray type dielectric grease on the terminals and fuses to keep them from corroding and losing contact?

yes, I use WD-40.

I normally use Lithium Grease from 3M. Best there is!

Go to a reputable electrical supply house and ask for Nolox. It is used in the electrical trade when connecting dissimilar metals together. Copper to aluminum etc. It also guards against corrosion and flux. Read directions and dont get carried away as a little goes a long way and can be a mess to clean up, but it works. WD-40 is conductive as well as highly flamible. Overspray can get into circuit boards and other areas not wanted which can cause arching across conductors and non-conductors. Be careful as to how much and where you apply wd-40. I learned about WD-40 the hard way when I was a kid. Almost burned a 1967 Camaro to the wheels. I use WD-40 to this day, but not on electrical connections or around printed circuit boards.

Not sure on the spelling but this is close Pentrox. Used on electrical connections for aluminum wire in house wireing. I use this very spareingly and you'll never have problems again. Also light bulbs ,it is a dielectric grease at a reputable electrical shop. Use this on outside lights at home and when a bulb burns out you will never have trouble getting it out.

WD-40 is not a good idea. WD-40 displaces moisture and seems to hold it over time, causing corrosion, rather than preventing it. I have had bad luck with it myself. It sis also a bad lubricant.

Dielectric grease is made for this purpose.

Boeshield is great to protect non-electrical metal surfaces. Its expensive, but worth it.

here's a suggestion from a newbie, I snowplow in the winter and we use fluid film extensivley, it is used by the u.s. navy amongst others. here is the link to the appropiate page

http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/ ... tions.html

what do you guys think of this?

p.s. if you join their fan club tell Joy and Dano rooferdave told you!

That Fluid Film is great stuff! I have been selling it in the automotive industry for years.