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Sliding glass door rollers

Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:52 am
by philip
I can not find sliding glass door roller replacements for a 1987 f-32
can you help me? There are steel ones without the nylon coating or they are all nylon and don't look beefy enough to hold the wieght??

Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 12:13 pm
by captainmaniac
Is it the 'door roller kit' that Beacon has on the site http://www.trojanboats.net/zencart/inde ... 20a&page=2 ?

Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 1:04 pm
by Stripermann2
I replaced mine about 5 years ago. Same rollers, different price.
It'll make all the difference in the world and very easy to do.

Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 10:55 pm
by wowzer52
How easy?

Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 8:39 am
by Stripermann2
wowzer52 wrote:How easy?
20-30 minutes. You need to pull the door and lower track/sill out, then you can replace the rollers with the door on it's side or edge.

Remove the lower door sill from the outside, there are about 6 screws which go in horizontally. Now open the door and pull/lift outwards on the sill, tilt the salon door out of the upper track guide. You can now slide lower track/sill off door. Reverse procedure once you've replace the roller kit. Put some caulking around and behind the sill when screwing back together.

Easy with two people, don't ask how much easier! :wink:

Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 11:37 pm
by wowzer52
How much easier?...just kidding :D .Thanks stripermann, I'll look it over when I get back to the boat.

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:14 am
by Stripermann2
Wowzer, Just realized the year of your 32...you have a different door so I'm not sure if your sill and lower track is the same removal procedure.

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 12:26 pm
by captainmaniac
Sounds like your '85 is slightly different than the setup on my '79, so don't know if mine would be a better example for wowzer.

I have a trim / sill piece that is essentially an L-angle, about a half dozen screws holding it down. Remove the screws (you need to remove some with door open and some with door closed as it always covers at least one of them) and pull the L-angle out.

At the top of the door - on both edges - there is a little block screwed or bolted on that limits how high the door can be lifted (they hit the upper track when you lift). Remove these two blocks so you can lift the door higher.

Then all that's left is to lift the door straight up and 'kick' the bottom edge out (aft, into the cockpit). You may need a second person to help it along by getting down on the floor and helping to lift the rollers out of the track they are in (just using screw driver as a lever works).

Re-installation is the reverse. Put top of door in first, swing bottom into place. Second set of hands to make sure rollers end up in the right spot, lifting them as necessary. Make sure you are where you want to be by sliding the door back and forth a few times to make sure it moves freely. Then put the two little blocks back on, and reinstall the L-angle piece.

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 2:28 pm
by RickMid
captainmaniac wrote:Is it the 'door roller kit' that Beacon has on the site http://www.trojanboats.net/zencart/inde ... 20a&page=2 ?
It lists two roller sizes, 1" and 1.375". Does anyone know which one is used for the Internationals? Thanks....

Rickmid

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 9:40 pm
by wowzer52
thanks guys. I owe you one.

Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:00 pm
by captainmaniac
A couple of minor corrections... the little block that stops you from lifting the door is only on one end (the trailing edge) of the door, and there is a rubber stopper that also has to be removed with the L-angle. Here are a some pics.

L-angle itself runs almost the full length of the area that the door slides in.
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Fastened down by a half dozen screws. Open the salon door and pull what you can, then close the door and pull the rest. This shot is taken from inside.
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The little rubber stop that the door bumps up against when you open it to the max also has to come off - there is a screw hidden underneath it.
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Then there is this one single block (that normally keeps you from lifting the door out of its track) at the top of the trailing edge of the door that has to come off.
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Then lift, and pull out from the base as described before.

Good luck!

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 8:00 am
by Stripermann2
Good job detailing how to remove the door!

The door and track on the earlier models is different in a few subtle ways than on later models.

Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 11:51 pm
by wowzer52
Yea baby, mine is just a tad different, no rubber stop, I have a finger getter, but this gives me a good idea of the process and modifications. thanks.