Repowering 1980 F-36

JuiceClark · Post by **JuiceClark** » Sun May 06, 2007 12:20 pm

Paul,
After looking at a whole bunch of F-36s yesterday under the engine hatches, your posting on BoatDiesel.com made my mind up. The performance you posted is right where I want to be. Even more, you're using the same props as me but with only 2 degrees more pitch...that'll save me $1500. And the weight/boat's stance won't really change from the gas engines I have now. Same exhaust... what am I forgetting? (besides gauges)

The more I look at it...it looks more like a drop-in situation; same props, shafts, struts, fuel tank, etc. I hate to give up my new Floscan...but I already know the fuel curve for the gas engines anyway.

If I can cruise that baby at 2000 RPM doing 19k and burning about 15 g/p/h that'll be perfect. With my new 300 gallon tank, I can go from here to Key West and back...not too bad.

The deal sealer: my buddy owns a shrimp boat and can prolly' fill her up for $1.95 gallon at the docks.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun May 06, 2007 8:57 pm

Juice are you going with the 300 cummins ?

Paul

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Sun May 06, 2007 10:52 pm

Juice, The engines I'll install are:
1. 1995 6BTA 250 HP bought used for $6,000. Had to rebuild the turbo and clean 3 old zincs out of the heat exchanger. It was probably running hot and smoking due to the turbo dumping oil down the intake and the stopped up H.E. I was lucky on this one.
2. 1999 6BTA 250 HP bought used for $7,000. This engine had 6700 hrs on it but the guy swore it 'ran perfect'. $4,500 in parts and machine work later, it's a good running engine. I did all the assembly myself.

I watched the websites and adds for xmsns and decided to go new after talking to one of the major marine transmission dealers. He said xmsns of that size are not econominally feasible to rebuild and if you buy one advertised as rebuilt, it's probably just repaired or worse yet, just used and painted. Got my new ones from Tony @ Seaboard Marine...good deal!

JuiceClark · Post by **JuiceClark** » Sun May 06, 2007 10:58 pm

If my brother (big exec with CAT) gets me a pair of 3116s for nuthin' I'll try to shoe-horn them in there. But otherwise I'm definitely going with the 6BTAs and ZF 200As with 1/5 to 1.

Can't figure out why I can't just drop a pair in there. Clean out the gas tank, add one degree more bite to the props, reinforce the stringers a little, paint the bilge and drop em' in.

Trick is gettin' them cheap. My goal is to get some remans or fresh take-outs for $10k each and gears for $2500 each...a lofty goal I know. But if I can get $5k for my fresh gas take-outs, I can pull the whole job off for $25k out of pocket including installation and misc.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon May 07, 2007 6:14 am

Juice , basicly you you can . you will have to do some rewiring / difrent tachs & gages ? and you need to add a return for fuel at the fuel tank . make sure your tanks are alum. or S.S.

Danny , sounds like your getting close to the install . are you takeing photos of all the steps ? I would like to see them if you are .

Paul

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Mon May 07, 2007 7:21 am

Don't forget bigger fuel lines, (don't consider using the 20+ year old ones even for the return lines)

Invest in a great filter system either Raycor 900's or see the story on filtration by Tony Athens on Boatdiesel.com

Now is a great time to invest in a Reverso or similar brand oil change pumping unit. THis way you can drain and fill your engines and genset easily and cleanly.

Is your raw water intake system large enough to get sufficient cooling water to the engines ? I had to upgrade the system in my 1984 International with 454's to accomodate the Yanmars. ( I think I was at 1 1/2" and needed to go to 2")

Also, you might consider plumbing your raw water system with an additional Tee fitting and ball valve to add an emergency bilge pumping system. It's a cheap and easy addition that you'll probably never need, but it's good to have, especially considering the additional value of the vessel and the difficulty getting the insurance replacement value up to what you really think it would be if you suffered a total loss.

Additional sound insulation is a good idea while the engines are out. So is replacing all the bilge hoses and adding a few more engine room lights.

To better protect our "investment" (now THAT's funny ! !) we also upgraded the fire control system and installed a manual "pull" setup.

Take advantage of those engines being out.

Good luck,

RWS

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Mon May 07, 2007 7:26 am

Paul,
My plan is to haul the boat in October while the yards (and me) are not so busy and start the swap. I'll be using the yard for the crane work and I'll be doing the rest. Rough sequence is like this:
1. Remove floor and 3 glasss doors
2. Remove 440's w/ gears attached
3. Remove galvanized gas tanks
4. Clean bilge and repair any rot / damage found
5. Install SS fuel tanks
6. Modify eng bed for 6BTA
7. Relocate/up-size sea water intake
8. Install 6BTA's
9. Plumb and wire eng's. Modify throttle and shift controls (gas throttle cable is backward for diesel)
10. Launch boat & work off problems

I'll take plenty of pic's and post as I go.

Danny

JuiceClark · Post by **JuiceClark** » Mon May 07, 2007 10:29 am

I already put new 2" raw water lines in when I put new seacocks in. All the fuel lines are new and my 300g aluminum gas tank is only 1.5 years old. That's the thing, I replaced everything in my boat like new then put in rebuilt 454s because the bill was getting big. Stupid.

The next lil' old lady I see carrying a couple marine diesels down the street had better watch out!

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:04 am

Last chance on these good running, tough as nails 440's. The boat is coming out of the water Monday to start swapping engines and I still don't have any serious offers. I will consider all offers!!
Danny

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 6:32 am

Good luck with the refit.

Don't forget to plumb in a fresh water flushing system and crash valve.

Looking forward to your photos.

RWS

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:03 am

Danny,

Love to hear your plans for installation of your 6BTAs. I have some things I would do different ...

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:21 pm

Danny your welcome to come look at my boat anytime to see how they fit

Paul

Danny Bailey · Post by **Danny Bailey** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:34 am

Thanks for the support guys. Any pitfalls you can steer me around before I fall in them would be greatly appreciated. The thing keeping me awake at night now is the local boat slip situation. I keep my F-36 at a mom & pop marina owned by a 90 year old local. Good chance it will be sold for development as soon as she passes, so I started looking for a slip to buy. WOW....40 ft slips going for $85,000 up plus monthly maintenance fees higher than rent. Is it any better in other places? Do I live in the wrong state or what? Looks like boating may be destined to become a rich man only sport. What's it like where you live?

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 6:17 am

In Southwest Florida there are still places where you can buy a home on the water for a reasonable cost.

Try Charlotte County of Cape Coral for your best values.

It's a buyers market now.

RWS

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 6:56 am

Danny I pay 182. a month thats a little be ow average around here

Paul

Trojan Boat Forum

Repowering 1980 F-36

Perfect

yep

drop-in

6BTAs