Replacing the Teak roof on the Bow. 1973 F-30 Express

Jfreeman1412 · Post by **Jfreeman1412** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 7:12 pm

Hey Guys I had another post about replacing the roof on the cabin and I was thinking of doing the teak wood on the bow as well as there are some soft spots. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions?

1967 seavoyager · Post by **1967 seavoyager** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:34 pm

The Teak is bonded to the plywood underneath. Cut the rotten plywood out with a rotozip & chisel & West System in a patch of new 1/4 " plywood.
Condon Lumber has new plydeck. http://www.condonlumber.net

1967 seavoyager · Post by **1967 seavoyager** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:39 pm

Thatboat is not an f-30. It's a Sea Raider.

Jfreeman1412 · Post by **Jfreeman1412** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:53 am

Sea raider? Good to know. Thanks

As for the teak...it must be real thin. And you mean get in there on the in side with a roto zip and zip through the plywood but not the teak? How about the teak it self to keep this from happening again? Sand it and seal it up top?

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:36 am

This is a common problem with these old teak decks. The previous owner replaced the teak decks on my Sea Raider. Completly removed the plywood and teak and put down new mahogany plywood, glassed and painted. Looks good and updated the boat. Rear deck is still teak and in good condition.......John

1967 seavoyager · Post by **1967 seavoyager** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:36 am

Yep, 3/8 teak bonded to 1/4 in plywood. It's probably glued to the deck beams & screwed. It's easy to patch from underneath.

Jfreeman1412 · Post by **Jfreeman1412** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:44 am

jddens
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

Trojan Dave · Post by **Trojan Dave** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:09 pm

If you are considering replacing the whole deck - be prepared to be in-it for the long haul. It's not a small task to take on - it can be done - but it's a lot of work. I was at that cross-road with my sea raider..same issue... I figured that so long as I could dry it out effectively and re-seal it, I could live with a little spongy feeling in it....so long as it's not rotted, which you should be able to tell from looking at the underside from the V-birth. While pulling mine onto the trailer last year, the front cleat ripped out, leaving me with a hole in my teak deck. After inspection, I opted to patch it instead of doing a replacement cause I realized the amount of work that would be involved. Don't get me wrong, I'm not afraid of hard work, I just have short arms and deep pockets!

I did find that I needed to replace the panels below the cockpit windows and replaced some trim, however the "structural" components were in really good shape there.

Best of luck!
Trojan Dave

Jfreeman1412 · Post by **Jfreeman1412** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:55 pm

I figured that so long as I could dry it out effectively and re-seal it

Can you inform me how or the best way to do that?

I did find that I needed to replace the panels below the cockpit windows and replaced some trim,

Did you have leaks Like I do where the gunnel meets the bow? Where the cabin (white window covers or shade, if you will) is very soft. But every where underneath the teak looks pretty good.

Trojan Dave · Post by **Trojan Dave** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:35 pm

Can you inform me how or the best way to do that?

I can tell you how I did it, although others may have some concerns.... We had a very warm spell without rain, so I opened up all the windows and the front hatch. I put a fan inside the cabin below deck and let it run for a couple of days. My only benefit was that I had a hole in my deck so I could at least see that the teak had not appeared to have delaminated from the underlay-ply. This was one reason why I didn't replace the whole deck..didn't figure that it was rotten or delaminated. I did also notice that once I had a couple of coats of Epiphanes on, the deck actually felt stronger and the soft area were much less evident. Not a perfect fix, but I believe that it should be OK.

Did you have leaks Like I do where the gunnel meets the bow? Where the cabin (white window covers or shade, if you will) is very soft. But every where underneath the teak looks pretty good.

Mine was NOT leaking (other that the hole that had been ripped out with the cleat) The areas that you indicate were bad on mine, however still appeared and felt structurally sound. IMHO - If the structure is generally sound, the best approach is to get it as dry as possible and seal it with West System / Epiphanes, or anything else that you can get a good weather/water-tight seal with.

Just my two-cents and how I did it. It was a judgement call and some would suggest that if it's not completely taken apart and replaced, it's not fixed...and maybe so, But if |i can get a few years of enjoyment with this and remain safe on the water, I'm happy.

Keep us posted!

TD

jddens · Post by **jddens** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:57 am

Here are some pics of the project. This was done 8 years ago and still looks great and maintenance is minimal.......John

Jfreeman1412 · Post by **Jfreeman1412** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:05 pm

Jd thanks for the pics.....how far did you go back on the gunnel? And did you fiberglass it or is that white paint?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:07 pm

Nice work

Trojan Dave · Post by **Trojan Dave** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:07 pm

Nice Job!

Any idea of time / cost?

TD

jefflaw35 · Post by **jefflaw35** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:39 pm

wow !!! That was nice looking!!! good work!!