Trojan Boat Forum

If you give me the shaft size I can tell you what you need

Paul

I am also in need of the same information. F32 with 1 .25" Shafts.

I am also in need of the same information. F32 with 1 .25" Shafts.

if you stuffing boax is a Buck Algonquin(99.9% it is)
heres some sizes
1" takes 1/4 packing
1 1/8 takes 3/16
1 1/4 ( 1.25) takes 1/4
1 3/8 takes 3/16 "
1 1/2 takes 1/4

I have the best luck with gortex or GTU packing ( black color)
it cost more but it is worth it do not use packing lub if useing gortex or gtu

Look at my chart again some 1 3/8 take 1/4 packing

'74 Tricabin (stock) V-drive shafts take 3/16" packing.

Just did it. You probably have the same model drives I do, so it is probably 3/16".
Wouldn't hurt to spend the extra $6 on 1/4" though, if you don't have good access while at the boat to a local shop.

You can always return it if it is unopened.

i just repacked both boxes while in the water--f-32

hardest part was on one side nuts would not move--

finally got them off---some water came in---not a job to take your time doing-- i don't think i would want to get involved with plumbing putty on yhe shaft

do not put putty on the shaft . how are you going to ajust it for a slow drip in putty stops the water ?

I did it in the water. Not a big deal. Make sure you have working bilge pumps. Water gurgles in, for sure, but it isn't like you just punched a hole in the hull or anything. I was nervous because I had never done this job before, but it was much to-do about nothing, really. You're going to be surprised how little water pressure and therefore how little water actually comes through the shaft opening. It doesn't "spray" in like a hose or anything. It just runs in similar to if you don't turn a garden hose all the way off. It's not full blast, by any means. You don't need to putty the outside of the shaft, though I have heard of people doing that.

It only takes a few minutes. You can pre-cut the flax packing to size before you actually undo the nut.

As someone stated, the hardest part of the job was undoing the locking nut. Bring a monkey wrench and some elbow grease.

My biggest disaster was slipping off the nut with a pair of Channel Lock pliers and slicing my finger on a rusty engine bracket. Just re-tightened the nut up by hand (which really slowed the water flow) and went looking for a Band-Aid. Cleaned up and finished.

It's about a 20 minute job if you can get the nut off easily (and don't have to go looking for Band-Aids!)

rjcress wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:do not put putty on the shaft . how are you going to ajust it for a slow drip in putty stops the water ?

I was thinking that I would put the putty on to slow/stop the rush of water in to the boat while the nut is off, then remove the putty once the nut was back on so that the tightness could be adjusted to allow the proper drip.

Is that a bad idea?

your making a easy job a lot of work IMO