Trojan Boat Forum

Away on business---pm sent-----those are great articles -- sorry to see that cam pic----Mike

OK guys this is getting really deep. Reading some of the specs they reference, AMSOIL Dominator® 5W-20, 10W-30 and 15W-50 Synthetics
are all formulated with the same robust additive package. These oils are heavily fortified with zinc and phosphorus to protect flat
tappet cams in the most extreme conditions.

Next question, how do I find out if my 318's have flat tappet cams.

Unless they are newer injected 318's form the 90's I would bet they have not been converted to rollers. Lots and lots of older flat tappet stuff out there running still.

Away On Busine$$ wrote:OK guys this is getting really deep. Reading some of the specs they reference, AMSOIL Dominator® 5W-20, 10W-30 and 15W-50 Synthetics
are all formulated with the same robust additive package. These oils are heavily fortified with zinc and phosphorus to protect flat
tappet cams in the most extreme conditions.

Next question, how do I find out if my 318's have flat tappet cams.

Yes you have flat tappets , And I would not use AMSOIL in anything not even if it was free . Go with a good name brand oil .

OIL, OIL, OIL.....It comes down to use good oil, that will take the heavy load that marine engines have placed on them. Our engines are pulling up hill all the time they never rest. C.P. has a good way of dealing with his temp changes during his season, But most of us change oil once a year maybe twice. Looking in my 87' Merc 7.4's (454) it said for my area 40 wt or Merc 15-40w, show I'd say your safe with good Diesel motor oil, Shell is good stuff but Wolf's Head is a Trucking standard in this parts. I have a 98' International 444TE (7.3) with 610.000 miles on it and it'll still run 70mph down the hwy . So that's what I use in 3 of my engines.

And don't we go thru this every Spring ?

alexander38 wrote:
And don't we go thru this every Spring ?

I would rather go thru this every spring ......................... than see someone lose an engine because they didn't want to be ridiculed for asking!

[quote="Allen Sr"][quote="alexander38"]

And don't we go thru this every Spring ? [/quote]I would rather go thru this every spring ......................... than see someone lose an engine because they didn't want to be ridiculed for asking![/quote]

I Agree with with that too.....Search ?....and 50 opinions...and I'm not RIDICULING ANYBODY !!!!

Both the straight 30 and 40W will work but the 15w-40 will work year round. You will get oil pressure faster on start up with and save fuel . Yes its used in diesels but it it also has a gas rating too . One other oil is 25W-40 that merc offers also a good choice . All will work fine , be it old school straight weight or the more up to date stuff . just use a good brand and check the specs .

Away On Busine$$ wrote:OK guys this is getting really deep. Reading some of the specs they reference, AMSOIL Dominator® 5W-20, 10W-30 and 15W-50 Synthetics
are all formulated with the same robust additive package. These oils are heavily fortified with zinc and phosphorus to protect flat
tappet cams in the most extreme conditions.

Next question, how do I find out if my 318's have flat tappet cams.

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is their standard SN rated oil with higher levels of zinc and phosphorous. It has to be called Racing Oil since the higher levels of zinc and phosphorous are not allowed for street use. It's available in 10W-30 and 20W-50 and is available at most auto parts stores. This oil gets very good reviews but is more expensive than Rotella. If you decide to use the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, make sure you use the Racing Oil in the silver bottle that looks like this: The Valvoline Not Street Legal Racing Oil in the black bottle does not have the additive package and is not appropriate for a boat engine.

Ask 20 different people and get 20 different answers. I've used straight and multi-grade oils specified as heavy duty diesel oils in a couple different boats over the years and they've always performed well. In the mid 90's I was introduced to Red Line synthetic oils for drag racing applications and was amazed at the results. The key to success using synthetic oils is to be sure that the has a proper break in period using conventional oil prior to switching to synthetic. After doing a little more research on synthetics, I started using Amsoil products in pretty much every thing that I own. In the Trojan, I use 15w-50 Dominator racing oil for the engine (350cid) and the Kohler genny. I also use Amsoil ATF in the Velvet Drive. Synthetics are more expensive than conventional oils however knowing that I work my engine pretty hard at times it gives me peace of mind.

Many old school people wouldn't touch synthetics with a 10 foot dip stick (Paul ) but I'd recommend doing a little research before choosing. The important thing in my opinion is not synthetic or conventional. Its choosing an oil with the right additives and grade as well as maintaining appropriate change intervals that's important to achieving long engine life.

Hope this helps

Heres Wolf's Head in case its not available everywhere we boat.

http://amaliestore.com/shop/product-cat ... superduty/

I use that stuff in equipment. New Holland, Case, etc. It used to be a Pennzoil product, but it doesn't look like it made it into the Pennzoil/Quaker State/Shell consolidation.

My Wal-Mart carries Quicksilver brand 4 stroke oil in 25W-40. I don't use it, but I thought it was interesting that they have it. Maybe its also stocked in other Wal-Marts near some of you.

While I am still holding onto these antique Chevys I'm gonna stick with the SAE 30/40 routine.

Paul wrote: Many old school people wouldn't touch synthetics with a 10 foot dip stick (Paul ) but I'd recommend doing a little research before choosing. The important thing in my opinion is not synthetic or conventional. Its choosing an oil with the right additives and grade as well as maintaining appropriate change intervals that's important to achieving long engine life.

Hope this helps

Now now , I have nothing against synthetics they have their place . But in this case low hour marine I see no need to waste the money . Reg oil gives all the protection you will ever need for this use . and it clings to the bearings better so if the engine sits alot that can help . Now if i was old school I would be using a straight weight . What I won't touch with 10 foot dip stick is Amsoil . Not that its bad oil , Its there very misleading info . Like you can go XXXX miles with out a change , and using amsoil will not effect your warranty , Makes you think you can go beyond factory intervals and still be covered . simply not true . The oil must be changed per factory specs and it must meet the specs. Don't hate the oil just the marketing .

prowlersfish wrote: Now if i was old school I would be using a straight weight .

Now, listen here you young whipper snapper......

prowlersfish wrote: Like you can go XXXX miles with out a change , and using amsoil will not effect your warranty , Makes you think you can go beyond factory intervals and still be covered . simply not true . The oil must be changed per factory specs and it must meet the specs. Don't hate the oil just the marketing .

Understood, this can be misleading. Simply because the oil is capable of extended use, it does not change the factory recommended oil change intervals required to maintain the warranty itself.

I did reviews on all three, Delvac, Delo LE and Rotella. It seems the new LE Delo has a lot less Zinc in it then the old Delo, same with the new Rotella. I'm gonna go with the DELVAC this year, $12.47 a gallon at Wally World, can't go wrong, but like others have said, everyone has an opinion.