Trojan Boat Forum

Hi,
I am planning on putting a Teak & Holly sole in my boat this spring and I am looking for some advice. I am planning on using Teak & Holly plywood and I am trying to decide between 1/4" and 1/2". The 1/2" will add more weight and cost more more but I think it will be easier to get it to lay flat on the sole and will make it easier to trim out with solid teak. The 1/4" is cheaper, lighter and more flexible but I am concerned that it may be more difficult to get air pockets out.

Thanks in advance

Tom

I used 1/2 inch because that's what I found on sale. So, I don't know how 1/4" would work out. But the entire process was simple. I made a cardboard template, traced the pieces (lining up the holly lines is the hardest part) and cut it all out. If you use the 1/4", just glue it to the existing plywood floor and it will be fine.
Really very simple. If you use poly for sealing, it really starts to look good at about 6 coats. So, I put three on to start and everytime it gets a little scratched-up I lightly sand it and add another coat.

Tony in Sw FL
1982 F-36

this is after only the 1st coat of poly:
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg12 ... /Salon.jpg

I just watched an episode of ship shape tv (maybe you can google the archive). They put down ( I think) 1/4 lam teak&holly ply and trowled down adhesive over the existing plywood sole similar to doing vinyl laminate, they even used a laminate roller to get the bubbles out. Then they recomended a 2 part epoxy (Mas, or west system) to coat the laminate surface and made some comment about high heel proof???? not sure if I believe that....

I was planning on doing the same this summer but have been starting to second guess it due to the family dog......... Carpet is cheaper and doesnt scratch.....

We used 1/4" teak & holly over the 3/4" plywood floor last spring. I believe we used PL200 for the adhesive. It worked out well.

As far as the finish goes, ask 10 different people and you'll get 10 different answers. We used 4 coats of Cetol.

I replaced the stringers in the forward galley and replaced the decking
with 1/2 inch Teak and holly. since the stringers and bulk heads were close enough I did not have to laminate and the deck has sufficient strength so it does not have any soft spots. I used cetol but I am reconsidering and will probably go to poly this summer to achieve the shine I would like to see.

Dan,
Do you have any in process construction photos of the stringer, cabin sole, and countertop work. Or better yet anything of the finished product we could look at. I am i process of doing the same thing and always am curious to learn from others projects.

Did you cut the stringers to the hull or just top them?

I do have some pictures of the work in progress and some finished pictures of the completed galley. I topped the fiberglass from the wood stringers, removed all the old wood stringers and one bad bulkhead. I replaced with white oak, sealed with resin from the rot doctor. epoxied the new wood in and clamped until dried the put additional woveing over the entire stringers again. (this makes the wood almost redundant for strength. By the way after fitting all the wood into place I put the boat back into the water before epoxying the wood and additional woving.(this insures the boat is not racked or out of position from the cradle. If you would give me you E-mail I can send you the pictures. I used the new Hd laminate from Wilson Art, new fridge and ceramic cook top. The first mate had me change the original 32 lay out of sink - stove location. The sink (where most of the work is done is now easier to work with.

Thanks Dan, I just emailed you my address. Also if you click the picture of my boat it will take you to my stringer repair album where things may look quite familiar for you.

Thanks again
Fred

I have check a couple of other sites and it seams that 1/4" is the way to go.

What do you suggest I use to glue it down? I have heard West System and PL2000. Has anyone ever heard of
http://teakdecks.com/installationepoxy.php

They make something that looks like tile mastic...

How do you suggest edging? I have heard that you should Wrap with Teak to keep the plywood edge from pealing...

Thanks

Tom[/url]

When I did my teak and holly I found that the cost of buying sheet of Teak and holly and marine plywood plus laminating them was more that purchasing the thickness I wanted from the start. I purchased from Homstead Hardwoods http://www.homesteadhardwoods.com/ . The following is current costs: 1/4" $185.00 1/2" $213.00 3/4" $229.00.
Seems to me the cost and quality of already laminated is the way to go.

Thanks

I have been doing some research and came across a company called Amtico that sells synthetic teak.

Anyone have any experience with them


Tom

Try World Panel at http://www.worldpanel.com

I used their teak & holly plywood to redo the cabin sole of my F-26. I used the 1/2" stuff, and used the old plywood flooring as template. It's been 6 years since I did the job and it still looks great. Varnished with mat finish and never had a problem with slipping due to wet feet. I replaced and beefed up some of the joists with oak. Found the 1/2" was very stiff and did not have to mess around glueing over exisiting flooring.
They have locations in FL and NC and ship all over.

Have fun no matter what route you choose.

This may be an option for ya...they are building me a swim platform.

http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1_30_75

Got my samples from Amtico today, it looks good and looks like it will wear really well. I also got a piece of 1/2 Teak & Holly plywood. Although the Amtico looks good and will wear better than wood I am lean toward wood. Partly because I think I would be more comfortable installing the wood as I have done many wood floors and other such products and I have never worked with anything like this. Plus I am not sure how I would finish off around the hatches....

Tom